J. Cosmet. Sci., 69, 187–202 (May/June 2018) 187 Insects as an Alternative Source for the Production of Fats for Cosmetics GEERT R. VERHEYEN, TOM OOMS, LIESBETH VOGELS, STEVEN VREYSEN, ANN BOVY, SABINE VAN MIERT, and FILIP MEERSMAN, RADIUS Lab, Thomas More University College— Campus Kempen, Geel 2440, Belgium (G.R.V., T.O., L.V., S.V., and S.V.M.), Mylène NV, Heist-op-den-Berg 2220, Belgium (A.B. and F.M.), Biomolecular and Analytical Mass Spectrometry, Department of Chemistry, University of Antwerp, Antwerpen 2020, Belgium (F.M.) Accepted for publication March 28, 2018. Synopsis Insects may provide an environmentally friendly way of producing high-quality bio-based materials that can be implemented for cosmetic applications. Insects can be bred on organic waste, in high numbers, and on small surfaces, therefore, making large scale industrial breeding possible. Fats from three insect species: the black soldier fl y (BSF) (Hermetia illucens), the locust (Locusta migratoria), and the house cricket (Acheta domesticus) were evaluated for potential use in skin care. Insects were dried and fats were extracted using petroleum ether. The fats were further refi ned, and the fatty acid composition and the acid value were determined. The fats were used in a hand cream formulation and compared with the currently used mink-and plant-derived oils. Fatty acid analysis indicates that BSF contains 60% of lauric acid, which makes it less suitable for application in a skin-care product, whereas locust and cricket fats are rich in C16 and C18 fatty acids which makes them more suitable. Phospholipids and free fatty acid levels in the three insect species are relatively high compared with commercial, refi ned oils, and need to be removed by appropriate refi ning protocols. Odor and color also need to be removed by physical refi nement to improve the applicability. INTRODUCTION In the modern industry, the development of novel materials and products with little im- pact on the environment and of no concern for human health is of crucial importance. The search for novel materials is not only driven by the decline in fossil resources that will eventually become limited but also by the impact that human activities have on the planet, e.g., in waste production and overexploitation of natural sources. As an alternative to fossil oil, the industry is increasingly using plant material as a source for oleochemical applications (1). Although at fi rst sight this may seem an environmentally friendly source of oil production, its impact on the environment is considerable (2) as the increase in demand for vegetable oils and biofuels contributes to tropical deforestation, habitat Address all correspondence to Geert R. Verheyen at geert.verheyen@thomasmore.be.
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