ALKALOIDS IN COSMETICS 241 the Petri dishes. The solidifi ed plates at room temperature were inoculated with a 5-mm mycelium disk, and the mycelium dry weight was determined after 10 d of incubation. S. rolfsii and S. cepivorum were more sensitive to spilanthol, with a mycelial growth inhibi- tion of 100 and 94%. A lower sensitivity was detected with Verticillium sp. and Fusarium sp. even at the higher concentration of spilanthol assayed (70). ANATABINE IN COSMETICS Anatabine (3-[(2S)-1,2, 3 ,6-tetrahydropyridin-2 - yl] pyridine) belongs to the group of pyridine alkaloids (Figure 6.). It occurs most frequently in the nightshade plants (Solan- ceae), as well as in annual paprika (Capsicum annuum L.), tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum L.), eggplant (Solanum melongena L.), and tobacco (Nicotiana tabacum L.) (71). Because of the presence of other toxic alkaloids, e.g., nicotine, obtaining anatabine from plants is problematic. This compound is fi rst extracted with ethanol, water, steam, or carbo n diox- ide. Then, the extract is purifi ed by means of analytical techniques, e.g., liquid chroma- tography. Anatabine is alkaline in aqueous solutions, whi ch is why it is used in the production of cosmetics to neutralize the pH of the cosmetic mass. In the cosmetic indus- try, products with anatabine are most often used for the production of emulsions, creams, gels, pastes, and lotions (72,73). Anatabine has been shown to have anti-infl amma t ory effects in in vivo and in vitro studies. Studies conducted in mice, which received anatabine in dose 2 mg/kg BW, IP show that this substance reduces the level of pro-infl ammatory amyloid β (from about 4,300 pg/mL in control group to about 3,000 pg/mL in group receiving 2 mg/kg anatabine) in blood plasma (74) and inhibits the production of pro-infl ammatory cytokines such as TNFα, IL-1β, and IL-6 in tissues and blood (75). The quoted numbers are obtained by extrapolat- ing from graphs in the quoted article. The anti-infl ammatory and immunity-enhancing effects of anatabine can be used in the production of cosmetics designed to complement Figure 6. Chemical structure of anatabine (67).
JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 242 the care of acne skin. Lanier et al. (76) conducted a study on 10 volunteers with mild and moderate rosacea who were applying a cream containing this alkaloid twice a day. After 30 d, half of the respondents noticed a marked improvement in the skin condition (reduc- tion of erythema, infl ammation, and fl aking off the skin). REFERENCES (1) S. W. Pelletier, Alkaloids: Chemic al and Biol o gical Perspectives (Pergamon, Europe, United Kingdom, 1996). (2) R. Hegnauer, Biochemistry, distribution and t a xonomic relevance of higher plant alkaloids. Phytochem, 27, 2423–2427 (1988). (3) T. Aniszewski, Defi nition, typology, and occu r rence of alkaloids, Alkaloids, 1, 1–97 (2015). (4) A. Roy, A review on the alkaloids an importan t therapeutic compound from plants, Int. J. Plant Biotech- nol., 3, 1–9 (2017). (5) P. Nawrot, S. Jordan, J. Eastwood, J. Rotstei n , A. Hugenholtz, and M. Feeley, Effects of caffeine on hu- man health, Food Addit. Contam., 20, 1–30 (2003). (6) A. M. Bode and Z. Dong, The enigmatic effects of caffeine in cell cycle and cancer, Cancer Lett., 247, 26–39 (2007). (7) S. K. Mohanty, C. L. Yu, S. Gopishetty, and M . Subramanian, Validation of caffeine dehydrogenase from Pseudomonas sp. strain cbb1 as a suitable enzyme for a rapid caffeine detection, and potential diagnostic test, J. Agr Food Chem., 62, 7939–7946 (2014). (8) D. Dwornicka, K. Wojciechowska, M. Zun, R. Ka s perek, K. Swiader, M. Szumilo, and E. Poleszak, The infl luence of emulsifi ers on physical properties a nd release parameters of creams with caffeine, Curr. Iss Pharm. Med. Sci., 28(2), 81–84 (2015). (9) O. Lupi, I. J. Semenovitch, C. Treu, D. Botti n o, and E. Bouskela, Evaluation of the effects of caffeine in the microcirculation and edema on thighs and buttocks using the orthogonal polarization spectral im- aging and clinical parameters, J. Cosmet. Dermatol., 6(2), 102–107 (2007). (10) A. O. Barel, “Anticellulite products and tre a tments,” in Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology, 3rd ed., A. O. Barel, M. Paye, and H. I. Maibach. Eds. (Informa Healthcare, New York, 2009), p. 609. (11) H. Y. Quan and S. H. C. Do Yeon Kim, Caffeine attenuates lipid accumulation via activation of AMP- activated protein kinase signaling pathway in HepG2 cells, BMB Rep., 46(4), 207 (2013). (12) K. Kobayashi-Hattori, A. Mogi, Y. Matsumoto, and T. Takita, Effect of caffeine on the body fat and lipid metabolism of rats fed on a high-fat diet, Biosci. Biotechnol. Biochem., 69, 2219–2223 (2005). (13) J. J. M. Van de Sandt, J. A. Van Burgsteden, S. Cage, P. L. Carmichael, I. Dick, S. Kenyon, G. Korinth, F. Larese, J. C. Limasset, W. J. Maas, and L. Montomoli, In vitro predictions of skin absorption of caf- feine, testosterone, and benzoic acid: a multi-centre comparison study, Reg. Toxicol. Pharm., 39(3), 271– 281 (2004). (14) R. B. Mustapha, C. Lafforgue, and N. Fenina, Effect of concentration on skin permeation of caffeine from gel formulations. J. Pharm. Bioresour., 7, 43–54 (2010). (15) R. B. Mustapha, C. Lafforgue, N. Fenina, and J. P. Marty, Infl uence of drug concentration on the diffu- sion parameters of caffeine. Ind. J. Pharm., 43(2), 157 (2011). (16) J. Levin and H. I. Maibach, “The correlation between transepidermal water loss and percutaneous,” in Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology, 3rd Ed., A. O. Barel, M. Paye, and H. I. Maibach. Eds. (Informa Healthcare, New York, 2009), pp. 167–168. (17) C. Lotte, A. Rougier, D. R. Wilson, and H. I. Maibach, In vivo relationship between transepidermal water loss and percutaneous penetration of some organic compounds in man: effect of anatomic site, Arch. Dermatol. Res., 279(5), 351–356 (1987). (18) A. Zesch and G. Stüttgen, The quantitative distribution of percutaneously applied caffeine in the hu- man skin, Arch. Dermatol. Res., 266(3), 277–283 (1979). (19) T. Amnuaikit, D. Maneenuan, and P. Boonme, Evaluation of caffeine gels on physicochemical character- istics and in vivo effi cacy in reducing puffy eyes, J. App. Pharm. Sci., 1(2), 56–59 (2011). ( 20) F. Ahmadraji and M. A. Shatalebi, Evaluation of the clinical effi cacy and safety of an eye counter pad containing caffeine and vitamin K in emulsifi ed Emu oil base, Adv. Biomed. Res., 6, 4–10 (2015). ( 21) S. M. Bessada, R. C. Alves, and M. B. P. P. Oliveira, Coffee s ilverskin: a review on potential cosmetic applications, Cosmetics, 5(1), 5 (2018).
Purchased for the exclusive use of nofirst nolast (unknown) From: SCC Media Library & Resource Center (library.scconline.org)