ALKALOIDS IN COSMETICS 245 (67) A. Mrozek-Szetela, Acmella oleracea – whether nature has an alternative to botox? Herbalism, 1, 84–100 (2015). (in Polish). (68) P. Bonner, A. D. Marzano, C . Kaminski, and K. A. Reynertson, Topical Compositions Comprising Ac- mella oleracea Extracts and Uses Thereof, US Patent No. 9,522,168 B2 (2014). (69) J. E. Castro-Ruiz, A. Roja s -Molina, F. J. Luna-Vázquez, F. Rivero-Cruz, T. García Gasca, and C. Ibarra- Alvarado, Affi nin (Spilanthol), isolated fro m heliops is longipes, induces vasodilation via activation of gasotransmitters and prostacyclin signaling pathways, Int. J. Mol. Sci., 18, 218–232 (2017). (70) J. Molina-Torres, C. J. Sala z ar-Cabrera, C. Armenta-Salinas, and E. Ramírez-Chávez, Fungistatic and bacteriostatic activities of alkamides from Heliopsis longipes ro ots: affi nin and reduced amides, J. Agric . Food Chem., 52(15), 4700–4704 (2004). (71) T. Thomas, D. T. Kanathkunn, a n d R. M. Sarveswara, Pharmaceutical, Dietary Supplement, and Food Grade Salts of Anatabine, US Patent No. 13/477, 295 (2012). (72) F. V. Rossi, R. Ballini, L. Ba r boni, P. Allegrini, and A. Palmieri, A practical and effi cient synthesis of anatabine, Synthesis, 5, 1921–1925 (2018). (73) J. R. Williams, Skin Care Prod u cts Containing Anatabine or Derivative Thereof, US Patent No. 13/803, 028 (2013). (74) D. Paris, D. Beaulieu-Abdelaha d , C. Bachmeier, J. Reed, G. Ait-Ghezala, A. Bishop, J. Chao, V. Mathura, F. Crawford, and M. Mullan, Anatabine lowers Alzheimer’s Aβ prod uction in vitro and in vivo, Eur. J. Pharmacol., 670, 384–391 (2011). (75) D. Paris, D. Beaulieu-Abdelahad, L. Abdullah, C. Bachmeier, G. Ait-Ghezala, J. Reed, M. Verma, F. Crawford, and M. Mullan, Anti-infl ammatory activity of anatabine via inhibition of STAT3 phosphory- lation, Eur. J. Pharmacol., 698, 145–153 (2013). (76) R. K. Lanier, A. E. Cohen, and S . H. Weinkle, Effects of a facial cream containing the minor alkaloid anatabine on improving the appearance of the skin in mild to moderate rosacea: an open-label case series study, Case Rep Dermatol., 5, 347–356 (2013). (77) K. B. Michels, W. C. Willett, C. S. Fuchs, and E. Giovannucci: Coffee, tea, and caffeine consumption and incidence of colon and rectal cancer, J. Natl Cancer I, 97, 282–292 (2005). (78) C. Căruntu, C. Negrei, M. A. Ghi ţ ă, A. Căruntu, A. I. Bădărău, I. Buraga, D. Boda, A. Albu, and D. Brănişteanu, Capsaicin, a hot topic in skin pharmacology and physiology, Farmacia, 63, 487–491 (2015).

" Dedicated to the advancement of cosmetic science " " KPHQTOCVKQP"HQT"LQWTPCN"QH" "EQUOGVKE"UEKGPEG"CWVJQTU" " Vjg"LQWTPCN"QH"EQUOGVKE"UEKGPEG"rwdnkujgu"rcrgtu"eqpegtpgf"ykvj"equogvkeu"qt"vjg"uekgpegu" wpfgtn{kpi"equogvkeu."cu"ygnn"cu"qvjgt"rcrgtu"qh"kpvgtguv"vq"UEE"ogodgtu0"Kp"rctvkewnct."vjg"LQWTPCN" ygneqogu"rcrgtu"eqpegtpgf"ykvj"equogvkeu."equogvke"rtqfwevu."htcitcpegu."vjgkt"hqtowncvkqp"cpf"vjgkt" ghhgevu"kp"umkp"ectg"qt"kp"qxgtcnn"eqpuwogt"ygnn/dgkpi."cu"ygnn"cu"rcrgtu"tgncvkpi"vq"vjg"uekgpegu"wpfgtn{kpi" equogvkeu."uwej"cu"jwocp"umkp"rj{ukqnqi{."eqnqt"rj{ukeu."rj{ukecn"ejgokuvt{"qh"eqnnqkfu"cpf"gownukqpu." qt" ru{ejqnqikecn" ghhgevu" qh" qnhcevkqp" kp" jwocpu0Rcrgtu" qh" kpvgtguv" vq" vjg" equogvke" kpfwuvt{" cpf" vq" vjg" wpfgtuvcpfkpi"qh"vjg"equogvke"octmgvu"ctg"cnuq"ygneqog"hqt"rwdnkecvkqp0"Vjg"Gfkvqt"tgnkgu"qp"vjg"cfxkeg" qh"tgxkgygtu"yjq"ctg"gzrgtvu"kp"vjg"hkgnf"kp"fgekfkpi"yjgvjgt"c"uwdokuukqp"jcu"uwhhkekgpv"uekgpvkhke"ogtkv" vq"ycttcpv"rwdnkecvkqp0"" " Cnn"rcrgtu"rtgugpvgf"dghqtg"c"oggvkpi"qt"ugokpct"qh"vjg"UQEKGV["QH"EQUOGVKE"EJGOKUVU."qt"vjqug" rcrgtu" uwdokvvgf" fktgevn{" vq" vjg" Gfkvqt" yknn" dg" eqpukfgtgf" hqt" rwdnkecvkqp" kp" vjg" LQWTPCN0" Rcrgtu" rtgugpvgf"dghqtg"vjg"UQEKGV["QH"EQUOGVKE"EJGOKUVU"ctg"vjg"rtqrgtv{"qh"vjg"UQEKGV["cpf"oc{" pqv"dg"rwdnkujgf"kp"qt"uwdokvvgf"vq"qvjgt"lqwtpcnu0"Qpn{"kh"vjg"LQWTPCN"QH"EQUOGVKE"UEKGPEG"ku" wpcdng"vq"rwdnkuj"c"rtgugpvgf"rcrgt."oc{"kv"dg"rwdnkujgf"kp"cpqvjgt"lqwtpcn"qh"vjg"cwvjqt)u"ejqkeg0"" " Tguwnvu"eqpegtpkpi"cpkocn"*pqv"jwocp+"rj{ukqnqi{"ctg"qwvukfg"qh"vjg"ueqrg"qh"vjg"LQWTPCN."vjgtghqtg" ocpwuetkrvu tgrqtvkpi tguwnvu tgncvgf vq kv yknn pqv dg vcmgp kpvq eqpukfgtcvkqp"hqt"rwdnkecvkqp"kp"vjg" LQWTPCN"QH"EQUOGVKE"UEKGPEG0"" " Rcrgtu" tgrqtvkpi" qp" vjg" cpvk/qzkfcpv" rtqrgtvkgu" qh"dqvcpkecn" gzvtcevu" ujqwnf"ujqy" vjcv" vjg" cpvk/qzkfcpv" cevkxkv{"ku"fwg"vq"c"uecxgpikpi"cevkxkv{."cpf"pqv"vq"vjg"ctvkhcevwcn"rtqvgevkqp"qh"vjg"gzrgtkogpvcn"vctigv"qh" vjg"rtq/qzkfcpv"dgecwug"qh"vjg"cffkvkqp"qh"gzeguu"vctigv"hqt"vjcv"rtq/qzkfcpv0"Rcrgtu"ujqwnf"cnuq"fguetkdg" cp"ghhgev"qh"vjg"dqvcpkecn"gzvtcev"qp"uqog"enkpkecn"gpfrqkpvu"*yjkvgpkpi."tqwijpguu."tgfpguu."gve+"ykvj" jwocp" xqnwpvggtu0" Rcrgtu" vjcv" fq" pqv" oggv" vjgug" vyq" etkvgtkc" yknn" pqv" dg" vcmgp" kpvq" eqpukfgtcvkqp" hqt" rwdnkecvkqp"kp"vjg"LQWTPCN"QH"EQUOGVKE"UEKGPEG0" " Cnn"rwdnkujgf"rcrgtu"ctg"gnkikdng"hqt"vjg"hqnnqykpi"cyctfu" " CNNCP"D0"DNCEM"CYCTF"" Vjg" Cnncp" D0" Dncem" Cyctf" ku" rtgugpvgf" kp" Fgegodgt" vq" vjg" cwvjqt*u+" qh" vjg" Dguv" Rcrgt" qp" Ocmg/Wr" Vgejpqnqi{"rwdnkujgf"kp"vjg"LQWTPCN"QH"EQUOGVKE"UEKGPEG"qt"rtgugpvgf"cv"vjg"rtgegfkpi"Cppwcn" Oggvkpi0" " Vjg"cyctf"eqpukuvu"qh"c"uetqnn"cpf"jqpqtctkwo"vq"dg"ujctgf"coqpi"cnn"cwvjqtu"kh"crrnkecdng0""Vjgtg"ctg"pq" Jqpqtcdng"Ogpvkqpu"hqt"vjku"cyctf0""Vjg"Eqookvvgg"ecp"tgeqoogpf"vjcv"pq"cyctf"dg"ikxgp"kp"cp{"{gct0"" Vjku"ujcnn"kp"pq"yc{"chhgev"hwvwtg"ugngevkqpu"qt"vjg"uk|g"qh"vjg"cyctf"kp"hwvwtg"{gctu0" " LQUGRJ"R0"EKCWFGNNK"CYCTF"" Vjg" Lqugrj" R0" Ekcwfgnnk" Cyctf" ku" rtgugpvgf" vq" vjg" Dguv" Ctvkeng" crrgctkpi" kp" vjg" LQWTPCN" QH" EQUOGVKE" UEKGPEG" qp" vjg" uwdlgev" qh" jckt" ectg" vgejpqnqi{0" Vjg" Cyctf." jqygxgt." ujqwnf" qpn{" dg" itcpvgf"yjgp."kp"vjg"qrkpkqp"qh"vjg"Eqookvvgg."vjgtg"ku"c"rcrgt"vjcv"ogtkvu"vjg"Cyctf0"