INTERPRETATION OF HALAL COSMETICS IN MALAYSIA 149 Cosmetic products Creatures that are considered repulsive (e.g., lice and fl ies) All types of microorganism and their by- products and/or derivatives. Carrion or any part of an animal that has not been slaughtered Cosmetics containing products and/or by-products of genetically modifi ed organisms (GMOs) or made by manipulating genetic materials of non-halal animals are considered not halal. Any part of a human being or its yield All minerals, chemicals and synthetic, all sources from soil and water, and their by-products. Anything which is najs or fi lth or farmed halal animals that are intentionally fed with najs All items can either be haram-prohibited or halal-permitted depending on the source of origin and processing procedure. Poisonous or hazardous to health Each item must not be poisonous, intoxicated, or hazardous to health. Production procedure Prohibited Allowed and closely monitored. It is related to the toyyib aspect. Item(s) Prepared, processed, or manufactured using any instrument that is contaminated with najs or in contact with non- halal substances during its preparation and/or mixed with materials that are decreed as najs Practising GMP and/or GHP that include storage segregation, transportation, and the use of appliances/brushes. Not mixed or in contact with non-halal and/or najs (fi lth) substances during its preparation. Ethics and responsibility Integrity, ethics, and responsibility of the manufacturer, producer, and person in charge. It is related to the toyyib aspect. Item(s) Ensuring the halal integrity in each section is preserved (comply with HAS and halal critical control Point). Table III Continued an ingredient falls under one of the haram-prohibited metrics, it is required to fi x the noncompliant aspects. If all the raw ingredients are halal but non-toyyib, either it is poi- sonous or hazardous to human’s health and environment or contaminated with najs thus, the cosmetic cannot be certifi ed as a halal cosmetic. Some of the critical or syubhah ingre- dients are presented in Table IV. Non-tayyib products such as products containing restricted ingredients or traces of heavy metals like mercury, arsenic, or hazardous and harmful ingredients are not recommended to be used. They can be categorized as syubhah or critical that needs further evaluation because of the impact of safety such as causing harm to consumers and having health risks. From the Islamic jurisprudence point of view, it is advisable to place the doubtful substances under the category of makruh (reprehensible) or avoided until further informa- tion become available to clarify the position (9).

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 150 Table IV Syubhah-Critical Ingredients in Halal Cosmetic (Adapted from Refs. 18, 29, and 30) No Ingredients Function Source of origin Safety aspect (CIR) 1 Allantoin Active, moisturisers Might be derived from unspecifi ed animals’ urine. Uric acid from cows or most mammals. Halal if it is from plants (especially comfrey). Safe for use as a cosmetic ingredient. 2 Collagen Active, moisturisers A protein found in cartilage and other connective tissues or fi brous protein. May be porcine-derived or human-derived collagen. Halal if it is marine-derived collagen. Safe as a cosmetic ingredient. 3 Keratin Active, moisturisers A protein derived from hair, wool, horn, nails, or other similar tissues in animals. Allowed to use under EU regulation, except for hydrolysed hair keratin due to the human’s origin. 4 Urea Active, moisturizers Might be derived from unspecifi ed animals. Excreted from urine and other bodily fl uids. Safe to be used in cosmetics and personal care products. 5 Vitamin E/ Tocopheryl acetate Active, moisturizers Might be produced from non-halal processes (e.g., the use of lipase or unspecifi ed origin of precursor materials). Safe to be used in cosmetics and personal care products. 6 Hyaluronic acid Active, moisturizers Might be derived from unspecifi ed animal tissues. Safe to be used as cosmetic ingredients. 7 Azelaic acid Active, moisturizers Might be derived from oleic acid of unspecifi ed animal origin. Haram if it is contaminated with Malassezia furfur. Determined safe for use in cosmetics and subjected to concentration or limitations. Distinction between safe concentration in leave-on and rinse-off. 8 Lanolin/ lanolin alcohol Emulsifi ers, moisturizers, thickeners A refi ned derivative of the fat-like sebaceous secretion of sheep. May be derived from non-halal slaughtered animals. Halal if it is obtained from living animals. Safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products. 9 Gelatin Thickeners Might be porcine-derived gelatine. Halal if it is derived from fi sh. Allowed to be used in any way under the rules governing the cosmetic products in the EU, except for monoalkanolamine and water-soluble zinc salt. 10 Palmitic acid Thickeners, moisturizers, emulsifi ers May be derived from unspecifi ed animal. Halal if it is plant- derived. Safe for use in cosmetic products. 11 Xanthum gum Thickeners Haram if contaminated with fermenting bacterium. Halal if uncontaminated and obtained from natural aerobic fermentation. Safe to be used in cosmetics and personal care products. 12 Stearic acid/ stearyl alcohol Emulsifi ers, moisturizers May be porcine-derived. Halal if it is plant-derived. Safe for use in cosmetic products. 13 Oleic acid Emulsifi ers, moisturizers May be porcine-derived. Safe to be used as a cosmetic ingredient under the present conditions of concentration and use.