STABILITY OF A CREAM CONTAINING LECYTHIS PISONIS EXTRACT 157 were conducted in triplicate, and the results are expressed as gallic acid or tannic acid equivalent/100 g. FORMULATION OF A MOISTURE CREAM CONTAINING L. PISONIS The cream was for mulated using 100% natural-based product: Karité butter, stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, vegetable glycerin, vitamin E, citric acid, free conservant® (Engeltec, São Paulo, Brazil), rice wax, Emulgin B6® (Cromoline, São Paulo, Brazil), and ultrapured water Mili Q. The extract of L. pisonis was incorporated, previously diluted in water, in concentrations of 0.5, 1, and 5% to the base formula. All formulations were prepared in triplicate. EVALUATION OF FORMUL A CHARACTERISTICS The centrifugation t est was performed for each formulation tested before and after the stability test, according to the ANVISA (5). The amount of 5 g sample was transferred to a tube, centrifugated at ×3000 g, for 30 min, and observed if any separation of phases oc- curs. According to the ANVISA (3), pH was evaluated and measured using a digital Gehaka® pH meter (São Paulo, Brazil). Spreadability was perf ormed in all samples before and after the stability test, according to Knorst (16), with modifi cations. One gram of each sample was placed in the central dot of an acrylic plate, and then the other plate was aligned above the sample. Over the plates, a cali- brated weight of 200 g was placed for 2 min. The spreadability diameter was recorded in opposite directions, and the average diameter was calculated. A commercial moisture cream (Monange® - Savoy Industria de Cosméticos, Goiânia, Brazil) was used as a reference. All formulations were v isually analyzed for changes in color, odor, and homogeneity dur- ing the study and before and after the stability test (17). The stability test was performed for all samples in triplicate, according to the ANVISA (5). The samples were stored in sterilized fl asks and submitted to different temperatures for 24 h each and in three cycles: freezing (-5°C ± 2°C), room temperature (15°C to 30°C), and elevated temperature (40°C). The stability of formulations samples was evalu- ated based on organoleptic and physical–chemical characteristics (17). CHALLENGE TEST The microbiologi cal security te st was performed based on Resolução da Diretoria Colegiada 481/99 for cosmetics products (18). The samples were randomly selected before and after the stability test and artifi cially contaminated with different microorganisms. This test aims to determine the product resistance against microbial contamination, refl ecting the conservation system’s effi ciency present in the formulation. The formulations were artifi - cially contaminated by inoculation with selected microorganisms in a solution at 0.5 in McFarland scale, followed by the plate counting method’s survival determination at 0, 24, and 48 h, and 7, 14, 21, and 28 d. Escherichia coli ATCC 8739, Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 25923, Pseudomonas aeruginosa CCCD P003, Candida albicans ATCC 10231, and Aspergillus niger ATCC 40067 were cultivated in Müeller–Hinton media (Kasvi®, São José dos Pinhais, Brazil) and then inoculated at 10% in the different samples of cream.

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 158 STATISTICAL ANALYSIS The quantita tive variables were e xpressed as media ± standard deviation, and the data were submitted to Student’s t test with a signifi cance of p 0.05. The qualitative data were expressed in a descriptive way. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION The ethanol ic extract of the outer pericarp of L. pisonis demonstrated a potential effect in the wound healing process. The ethanolic extract’s phytoconstituents could be quanti- fi ed, presenting 8.299 ± 0.079 mg of gallic acid equivalent/g of polyphenols and 3.410 ± 0.130 mg of gallic acid equivalent/g of tannins. In terms of tannic acid, total polyphenols performed 305.542 ± 34.812 mg of tannic acid equivalent/g and 145.202 ± 41.214 mg of tannic acid equivalent/g attributed to tannins, as calculated using the tannic acid curve. The main compounds identifi ed in the extract were tannins and other phenolic compounds. The incorporation of the extract in all-natural moisture formulation was analyzed for stability and shelf life. There is an increasing interest by the Society to diminish waste generation in industrial or commercial processes and to give a new purpose for these materials. The valorization of these materials is related to biotechnological innovation and sustainability (19–21). There are several agro-industrial residues already evaluated as potential use as elements for cosmetical production (19). Furthermore, even residues originating from organic or family-owned rural properties, generating more value to the producer, safety origin of the plant material, and more valuation in the fi nal product ally to the reduction of chemical substances use (19). Plant extracts’ applicability in cosme tics is broad because they possess a rich chemical composition with diverse biological actions as antioxidants, anti-infl ammatory, antimi- crobial, and other properties (21). Tannins, for example, have an astringent, antioxidant, antibacterial activity that helps to maintain the integrity of superfi cial skin, reduce in- fl ammation and wrinkles, and have constrictor properties in the skin (22,23). The cream with L. pisonis outer perica rp extract evaluated in this study was stable before and after the stability test related to odor and color, as presented in Table I and Figure 1. However, in the criteria of sepa ration of phases and texture, it is possible to notice that as the increase in the concentration of the extract is higher, the infl uence over the formula’s stability is higher (Table I). For the commercialization of a cosmetic, it is mandatory be- yond the selection of raw materials to fulfi ll specifi c quality requirements, including toxicity, stability to environmental variations (shelf life), and contamination of microor- ganisms (3,5). Before the stability analysis, in the centrifugation test, only sample S0 remains stable. Samples S0.5 and S1.0 that contain the extract presented white dots on the surface. This may be an incompatibility due to wax remnants as a result of incorporating the extract into the cream. This test is essential for simulating the behavior of the product during storage (24). The S5.0 sample presented separation of phases, with an accumulation of water on the surface. After the stability test, sample S0 remains stable. Although plant extracts are natural, it is necessary to evaluate its concentration in topical formulations as it may affect the stability of the product and may cause a rash in the skin (25).