Table 1 Content and Composition of Unsaponifi able Co mpounds in the Reviewed Vegetable Butters and Oils [mg/100 g of Oil]. Slash Symbol (/) Is Used When Information Was not Available Unsaponifi able compounds [mg/100 g of oil](-sitosterol) Terpenic compounds [mg/100 g of oil] Aliphatic compounds [mg/100 g of oil] Phenolic compounds [mg/100 g of oil] Sterols 4-Methylsterols Triterpene alcohols Carotenoids β-carotene Tocopherols (-, β-, and Ƴ-tocopherol), tocotrienols, plastochromanol-8) Hydrocarbons (mainly squalene) Elaeis sp. pulp (1,3) 200–1,000 30–265 9–36 8–32 38–200 10–150 Squalene 42–98 / Corylus avellana , (1,3,79) 200–300 106–200 / 5–6 / 22–61 Squalene 19–25 291 Persea americana , (1,3,80,81) 400–12,200 250–2,000 90–440 50–170 4–23 0–80 290–390 Squalene 34–37 882 Brassica napus , (1,3,82) 500–5,000 450–1,130 7–27 18–54 / 36–268 Squalene 44 / 207 Butyrospermum parkii/ Vitellaria paradoxa , (1,3,21,65,83) 3,000–10,000 150–360 100 800–6,200 / 3–81 920–4,000 407 3,000 Perilla frutescens , (3,69) 1,000–1,800 1,800–4,000 / / / 45–67 Squalene 150 / Glycine max , (1,3,84,85) 500–1,700 180–474 25–66 40–84 7–0.03 60–337 90 Squalene 10–14 42.6 Coffea arabica , (1,3,86) 7,600–15,000 132–5,000 / / / 12–61 / / DERMAL EFFECTS OF UNSAPONIFIABLE COMPOUNDS 217

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 218 TER PENIC COMPOUNDS DIT ERPENE ALCOHOLS: PHYTOL Phy tol is a monounsaturated diterpenic alcohol. It is involved in the synthesis of chloro- phyll, tocopherol (vitamin E), phylloquinol (vitamin K), and fatty acid phytyl esters in plants (9). In terms of effects that may be important for dermal activity, research demon- strated its cytotoxic, autophagy- and apoptosis-inducing, anti-infl ammatory, immune- modulating, antioxidative, antimicrobial, and antinociceptive effects (10,11). Phytol also showed potential in addressing skin hyperpigmentation, as it decreased melanin produc- tion in murine melanoma cells signifi cantly by reducing the expression of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein 1 (12). SQU ALENE Squ alene is a polyunsaturated triterpenic hydrocarbon. It is found in animals (shark liver), humans (sebum), and plants (amaranth and olive oils) (3,13–15). It functions on the human skin primarily as an antioxidant, particularly in ultraviolet (UV)-induced free radical re- actions, and contributes to proper skin hydration (16,17). In a macrophage cell line study (18), squalene induced an increase in the synthesis of anti-infl ammatory IL-10, IL-13, and IL-4, and a decrease in pro-infl ammatory TNF-α and NF-κB. It was also assumed that squalene may signifi cantly contribute to faster wound healing, especially in the last stages of tissue remodelling and wound closure. The inhibition of TPA tumor-promoting action was shown in vitro and in vivo on mouse skin (19). In addition, squalene was linked to benefi cial effects in the care of skin with acne and seborrheic dermatitis (14,15,17). On Figure 1. Chemical structures of typical unsaponifi a ble compounds.