USE OF ANTI-IRRITANTS IN COSMETIC FORMULATING 333 above (cf. preceding pages) that inclusion of 0.1% of the same ("guaia") azulene in an aerosol cologne greatly reduced eye irritation. Hertz (23) showed the value of 0.02-0.50% azulene in reducing eye irritation caused by deliberate instillation of mustard oil. Hertz also points out that its activity is lost if the azulene is solubilized with Tween 60. Carboxymethyl Cellulose Kuchinka (24) discusses the skin protective effect of CMC when used in combination with various surfactants. Cetyl Alcohol A number of cosmetic chemists feel that cetyl alcohol reduces eye irritation of shampoos, and eye and primary skin irritation of anti- perspirant emulsions. The cetyl alcohol urea complex was claimed (25) to have mild anti-irritant activity es. certain dishwashing detergent components. l)iethyl Phthalate The author has found that mixing perfume oil with equal parts of diethyl phthalate (before extending with alcohol) yields colognes exhibiting lower eye irritation scores than those resulting from simple dilution with alcohol alone. qualities of iodine. PVP in this case. in the patent. Eracol E607 This cationic surfactant (N-caproyl colaminoformyl methyl pyr- idinium chloride produced by Witco Chemical Co.) is the preferred example of a patent (6) covering germicidal iodine compositions which do not exhibit the characteristic skin irritation, sensitizing or toxic The E607 seems to act in a manner similar to Data substantiating these claims are not presented Ethanolamine This compound was found to be active (2( 9 in inhibiting the in- flammatory response normally produced in rats by implanting cultures of micrococcus pyogenes ear. aureus. Glycogen Opdyke (13), in a paper on the "accommodation phenomenon," discussed the appearance of glycogen-bearing cells in skin which has

886 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS become immune to irritants. This suggested its possible use as an anti-irritant. However, it was shown above that addition of 1% glycogen to a cream containing proteolytic enzymes increased primary irritation in one very small scale test. Lanolin Masters (27) quotes a 1935 paper that addition of lanolin to diph- theria antitoxin helped guinea pigs survive 40X normally lethal doses. Hatschek and Rogicky (28) reported that benzpyrene-induced cancer growth is retarded by subsequent application of lanolin. Russell and Hoch (29) published detailed documentation of eye irritation tests on a shampoo containing 3% ethoxylated lanolin alco- hols plus 1% liquid lanolin ("Nimcolan S" and "Lantrol" of the Maim- strom Chemical Co.). Significant reduction in Draize test scores were reported by three out of five testing laboratories. Similarly, the addi- tion of 2% acetylated ethoxylated lanolin alcohols and esters (Solulan 98 of American Cholesterol Products, Inc.) to a commercial shampoo reduced total eye irritation to about one-third in one test (30). N(2-Itydroxyethyl) Palmitamide This substance was found to be the active factor common to egg yolk, peanut oil and soybean lecithin which provides anti-inflammatory activity vs. cultures of micrococcus pyogenes var. aureus (26). N-Lauroyl Sarcosinates A well-documented patent by Dvorkovitz (23) shows the benefit of adding "Sarkosyl NL-100" (sodium N-lauroyl sarcosinate, Geigy Chemical Co.) to various dishwashing detergent formulations. Skin irritations (after intradermal injection of rabbits) were reduced to as low as one-eighth "normal" by addition of up to 9% of this substance. Maypon •C Nassau (31) claimed that a mixture of 25% of this protein-coconut fatty acid condensate (available from Stepan Chemical Co.) with 75% sodium lauryl sulfate gives much less eye irritation than the lauryl sulfate alone. Steiger (32) claimed it will protect the eye from harmful effects of other surfactants as well. No proof has been offered by the manufacturer, but this author and others agree that Mayport 4C probably shows anti-irritant activity in certain cases.