J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists, 18, ,521-826 (Aug. 19, 1967) An Experimental Design for Relating Personality to Perfumes GUSTAV CARSCH* Presented September 20-•21, 1966, Seminar, New York City Synopsis--Fragrances are classified according to psychological effects rather than descriptive terms. A system has been devised to show perfume characteristics in a graphic form. A corresponding system serves to establish personal profiles. Fragrances and personalities are related by matching the respective patterns. In describing a fragrance, almost any perruiner will respond by naming the aromatic raw materials which he thinks are in the perfume compound. This is appropriate to his work but virtually meaningless to the consumer. Nevertheless, manufacturers persist in defining their perfumes in this manner (1). Instead of stating what the perfume is (what it is made of), it is more informative to determine what it does (what psychological effects it exercises). To give an example from another area: if a wall paper is called "yellow," that is a plain description of the paper's color but if it is called "cheerful," that is a description of the effect the color has on the beholder. The effect of any work of art--and perfume is no exception--depends on the use of contrasts, on the opposites joined to ereate an entity. One of the finest symbols of this principle is the Chinese sign of ¾ang and Yin representing day and night, male and female, etc. FRAGRANCE PROFILE The system worked out for this fragrance classification relies on the principle of polarity and utilizes Jellinek's work (2-3). * Fleuroma, 43-23 Thirty-seventh Avenue, Long Island City, N.Y. 11101 .521

522 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Neutral Tranquilizing, , Stimulating ß ß Erogenic Figure 1. Psychological effects of fragrance NEUTRAL TRANQUILIZING STIMULATING EROGENIC Figure •. Psychological effects of fragrance The first psychological effect of fragrance to be considered is whether it is erogenic or not. Erogenic, of course, is a coined word which simply means having sex appeal. For the opposite of sex appeal, the word neutral is used. The next consideration concerns the contrast between stimulating and tranquilizing effects. If these two contrasts are arranged in vertical and horizontal opposition, a cross pattern is obtained (Fig. 1). The four major effects can then be combined in different ways. By connecting the four points, a diamond is formed (Fig. 2), and additional effects are derived from the combinations of stimulating with erogenic, stimulating with neutral and tranquilizing with erogenic or with neutral. The resulting effects, as seen on opposite sides of the diamond, i.e., refreshing rs. sultry and exhaltin,g rs. soothing, conform again to the principle of polarity. The scheme now comprises eight psychological effects of fragrances, opposed to polarity but also capable of forming a continuous odor spec- trum by following the perimeter of the rhombic figure. Next is the crudal step of aligning actual fragrances with the range of psychological effects. Figure 3 illustrates where some well-known odor types belong on the chart. This assignment is based on Jellinek's theory (2, 3), even though there is as yet no valid scientific evidence that Jellinek's system is true. Nevertheless, it can serve as a basis for the development of Fragrance Profiles for finished perfumes or colognes. It must be emphasized that a fragrance creation is called a compound or a composition, which expresses the fact that it is made up of many elements which together produce a unique entity. Then--