Cosmetics and the future 657 can fulfil his legal obligation to market safe products without some recourse to animal testing. I do, however, strongly advocate that alternative in vitro methods should be actively sought, that the industry should be seen to be interested in moving in this direc- tion and that Homo sapiens should be the test species wherever possible. Much, too, can be done by modified test procedures to minimise the discomfort felt by the test animals (9). There is pressure from Continental sources, for example in the draft Dangerous Substances Directive, to impose mandatory test protocols that would include the toxicologically questionable but bureaucratically popular LD50. This trend must be firmly resisted. I think that the industry will have to be ready, more than in the past, to justify its record in regard to animal experimentation to public opinion. In summary, I see an increasingly important role for the cosmetic scientist in the remaining quarter of this century, and no less for your Society as the guardian of scholarly standards and professional excellence within the industry. All the trends I have been talking about can only mean more scientific activity. Some of this activity--perhaps too much--will be unproductive and defensive. Demands for higher standards of safety and efficacy have already added a new dimension to the responsibilities of the scientist in the industry, and much creative work will be undertaken in dealing with the problems associated with these concepts. On the commercial side, I think that the industry as a whole has adapted successfully to externally imposed change. There are still a few dino- saurs around who are unwilling to admit that the Cretaceous epoch came to an end some time ago, but the recently strengthened Toilet Preparations Federation is doing a splendid job in spreading enlightenment. (Are there any other trade associations where 80•o of the senior staff are scientists ?) It is essential that the management of member companies should be, and remain, active and fully involved in the affairs of the Federation, and that they should allow--and indeed insist--that their scientists also contribute their skills. A strong trade association working with the wholehearted support of its members will continue to be a pre-requisite for survival. The dialogue that has been established with government at the national and Community levels will prosper only if the industry representatives have the right status, and the high levels of professional attainment, that will enable them to negotiate as equals. It is up to the industry to show self-confidence in its relations with government and with the consumer protection industry. Provided that we all respond adequately to the challenges of the time that I have touched on, and are ready to learn from the experience of other industries which have already passed through the fires of change, I am reasonably confident that although the cosmetics industry will certainly itself have undergone great changes, it will still in the year 2000 be recognisably the same kind of animal as we now know and, one would hope, still progressive, innovative, varied and profitable. REFERENCES 1 Council Directive of 27 July 1976 on the approximation of the laws of the Member States relating to cosmetic products (76/768/EEC). Off. J. Europ. Commun. 19 (L262) 169 (1976). 2 Williams L. P. Michael Faraday. (1965) (Chapman and Hall, London). 3 Orwell, G. Nineteen Eighty-Four. (1949) (Secker and Warburg, London). 4 Hook, E. B. and Healy, K. M. Consequences of a nationwide ban on spray adhesives alleged to be human teratogens and mutagens. Science, N. ¾. 191 566 (1976). 5 World Medical Assembly. Biomedical research: a revised code of ethics. WHO Chron. 30 360 (1976).

658 R. J. L. Allen 6 The EEC draft cosmetic directive. What is the case for positive and/or negative lists? Soap Perf. Cosmet. 47 (4) 153 (1974). 7 Allen, R. J. L. Cosmetic legislation in Europe•a personal view. Fd Cosmet. Toxicol. 13 385 (1975). 8 Allen, R. J. L. Food standards and nutrition. Proc. Nutr. Soc. 36 91 (1977). 9 O'Donoghue, P. N. and Scott, P. P. The place of animal tests in assessing safety in the use of cosmetics and toiletries. J. Res. Def. Soc. no. 168 12 (1977).