BENEFITS AND RISKS OF COSMETICS 245 LITERATURVERZEICHNIS 1. Bock, F. G.: Cutaneous Carcinogenesis In: Advances in Modern Toxicology Vol. 4, Dermatotoxicology and Pharmacology hrsg. von F. N. Marzulli, H. I. Maibach, 1977 John Wiley & Sons, New York, London, Sydney, Toronto 2. Davis, D. A.: Exploiting small victories (Editorial) Drug, Cosmet. Ind. 125, 5, 45, 1979 3. Fiedler, H. P.: Zum Nachweis der Wirkung kosmetischer Mittel. Gemeinschaftsarbeiten der Deutschen Gesellschaft der Kosmetik-Chemiker e. V. (GKC). Zum Nachweis der Wirkung kosmetischer Mittel 3. Mitteilung: Allgemeine Priifungen an der Tier- und Humanhaut 4. Mitteilung: Fortsetzung des Literaturverzeichnisses •rztl. Kosmetologie 9, 3, 193-194, 4,159-160, 1979 4. Fiedler, H. P.: Zum Nachweis der Wirkung kosmetischer Mittel. 5. Mitteilung: Methoden zum Nachweis der Wirkung von Hautpflegemitteln •rztl. Kosmetologie 9, 325, 1979 5. Fiedler, H. P.: Zum Nachweis der Wirkung kosmetischer Mittel. Gemeinschaftsarbeiten der Deutschen Gesellschaft der Kosmetik-Chemiker e. V. (GKC) •rztl. Kosmetologie 10, 1, 65-66, 1980 6. Fitzroy, J.: (Washington Letter) US Policy on Carcinogenes Drug, Cosmet. Ind. 125, 5, 22, 1979 7. Gloxhuber, Ch., F. Wingen, W. Greb: Bedeutung der Hautresorption f/fir toxikologische Bewertung von chemischen Stoffen Seifen - Ole - Fette - Wachse 105, 4, 97-102, 1979 8. Grimalt-Sancho, F.: Allergologie der Kosmetika und Grenzgebiete (Teil 1) )•rztl. Kosmetologie, 10Jg. 1, 9-26,1980 9. Ippen, H.: )•rztliche Kosmetologie 8, 33-52 (1978) 3. Bd. S. 45 Dr. Alfred Htithig Verlag Heidelberg 1973 10. Janistyn, H.: Taschenbuch der modernen Parfiimerie und Kosmetik Wissenschaftliche Verlagsgesellschaft m. b. H. Stuttgart 1974 11. Miller u. Miller: Pwc. 1114 Inter Cancer Congress 2, 3-8 (1974) 12. Montagna, W., E. J. van Scott, R. B. Stoughton: Advances in Biology of Skin, Vol. XII, Pharmakology and the Skin Appleton-Century-Crofts, New York, 1972 13. Rall, IARE: Scientific - Publications Nr. 25 (1979) 14. Sttittgen, G.: Kosmetische Dermatologie und Arbeitsmedizin Arbeitsmedizin, Sozialmedizin, Priiventivmedizin, 6, 109-111, 1974 15. Stiittgen, G. und H. Schiifer: Funktionelle Dermatologie Springer Verlag 1974 16. van Abb& N.J.: Cosmetic Benefit and Risk in Perspective Int. Society of Tropical Dermatology, Inc., 18,461- 463, 1979

J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 32, 247-252 (July/August 1981) Properties by design: A novel series of carboxylated surfactants KENNETH F. SCHOENE, MICHAEL H. NAIMA, HAROLD WOLF, PH.D., and MICHAEL A. ESPOSITO, Sandoz Co[ors & Chemicals, Route 10, East Hanover, NJ 07936. Received April 27, 1981. Presented at the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Scientific Meeting, December 11-12, 1980, New York City. Synopsis By applying state-of-the-art computer modeling, an homologous series of ALKYL ETHER CARBOXYLATES has been generated which represents structure property data over a range of selected variables. Physioochemical properties of these representative structures have been determined which suggest interesting and novel uses. The unique chemistry of the carboxyl group in these structures, as well as the properties of currently marketed products of this type, suggested that a broader review of the general class would yield structures of high utility to a number of industries. By incorporating structural parameters confined to fatty and alkoxy chains of recognized benefit, we anticipated combinations of properties novel to this class. Indeed, a number of unusual and ostensibly useful property combinations have been shown to exist or are predicted by the COMPUTER MODEL. This paper presents these findings and suggests additional directions for research and development. INTRODUCTION On a routine basis, a new product formulator can chose from among thousands of available surfactants to fill his or her needs. In most cases, minor compromise in overall behavior is acceptable provided the chosen surfactant provides the sought after effect however, when the side effects are not tolerable, the formulator must either effect a serious compromise in product performance and quality or abandon the project altogether. Indeed, new surface-active agents appear in the literature regularly and while they swell the lists of commercially available materials, their uses are frequently quite esoteric. Broad application data are not generally available, and the prediction of chemical and physical properties, even within a homologous series, is becoming increasingly difficult due to the complexity of modern surfactants. This dilemma was viewed from two perspectives: to expand our line of carboxylated surfactants, and to do it in a way that would continuously benefit the industries we serve. Specific products for specific end uses is the ultimate goal but at best, a growing list of homologs can only hint at where to go next. 247