j. Cosmet. sci., 52, 251-253 (July/August 2001) Abstracts Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan Vol. 34, No. 3, 2000* Properties of Sugar and Its Derivatives and Their Application for Cosmetics Takeshi Ikemoto Cosmetics Laboratory, KANEBO Ltd. Many kinds of sugar derivatives have been used to various cosmetics, as for humectants and hydrophilic moieties of surfactants. It has been also interested in newly ones, such as trehalose, raftnose and xylitol. On the other hands, the important role of glycosides in the plant kingdom have been clarified by many of recent studies. It is also recognized that glycosides are desirable materials as for cosmetics, due to their hydrophilic and low-toxic properties. Several glycosides, alkyl glycoside, glucosides of hydroqinone and vitamin C had been already appeared in the market. In this article, it would be discussed about the possibilities of glycosides in the cosmetics field though the development of ethyl glucosides, eugenyl and raspberry ketone glucosides. Studies of Bisphenol A on In Vitro Percutaneous Permeation Hiroshi Tokunaga, Younson Chung, Tadasi Uchino, Masanori Ando National Institute of Health Sciences Permeation of bisphenol A (BA) through the skin imagined as one kind of the endcrine disruptores was investigated. After mounting the guinea-pig abdominal skin onto the Franz -type diffusion cell, add 10mM sodium dodecyl sulfate, 10 mM benzalkonium chloride (BK) or 0.5% polyoxyethylene (10)oleyl ether (POE.OE) solution in the donor side and stand for 2h at 32 øC. After eliminating the surfactant's solution from the donor side, add 0.05% BA solution. During 14 to 24h at 32øC, BA concentrations permeated into the receptor side were determined by HPLC. HPLC conditions were to use the column of Unisil Q C18 (4.6mm i.d.x 150mm), the mixture of water and acetonitrile (3:2) as mobile phase and the fluorometer (excitation wavelength:280nm, fluorescence wavelength:305nm). When the skins after treating with BK and POE.OE for 2h were compared with water, the flux of BA increased 1.6and 1.2times, respectively. In the case of the treatment of skin with the mixture of 0.05% BA and either BK or POE.OE, the flux of BA obtained from BK and POE.OE reduced 0.1 and 0.22 times, respectively. Facial Attractiveness and Its Recognition:Social Psychological Perspectives Ikuo Daibo Department of Social Psychology, Graduate School of Human Sciences, Osaka University Facial attractiveness is evaluated in terms of the physical features, and is affected by social context and essential culture in nature too. A lot of studies in the area of facial beauty have shown us that perceived beauty was influenced by the ethnical identity and the physiognomic features derived evolutionary adaptation. Japanese have remained to repress the expression of facial beauty and physical appearance since old times. They have attached importance to the general equality among people, but they have not denied the facial beauty. Japanese view of the facial beauty is different from European and other Asian. Japanese show the conformity and the collectivism. It is necessary to clarify the relationships between the physiognomic features and the communicative efficacy. * These abstracts appear exactly as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Sdence. 251

252 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Age Related Changes of Female Leg Skin Naoko Tsuji, Yuko Fukuda, Takashi Kitahara, Shigeru Moriwaki, Yoshinori Takema Biological Science Laboratories, Kao Corporation We diagnosed the leg skin condition in 74 healthy females aged 10--69 years and evaluated the relationship between age and edema, vascular prominence, body hair, or other leg skin troubles. The extent of leg edema was evaluated by scoring of skin pit when pressure was applied to the skin on the tibia, and a relationship between the skin thickness, subcutaneous tissue was evaluated by using ultra sound B-mode. With age, the pit score increased, showing edema tendency. The skin thickness decreased with age, but the subcutaneous tissue thickness was not correlated with age. Changes of skin thickness after pressure application were not associated with age, but that in the subcutaneous tissue thickness were positively correlated with age. Thus, pitting on pressure in the subcutaneous tissue (edema) increased with age. This increase is not associated with the subcutaneous tissue thickness but may be caused by increased water retention in the tissue due to qualitative deterioration of the subcutaneous tissue such as decreased compliance and elasticity and changes in vascular lhnction. Vascular prominence on the back of the leg on photos was evaluated using a scoring system. The blood vessels became more prominent with age, and even a case resembling varices was observed. Vascular prominence as well as edema may be due to a vascular hypofunction. Concerning other troubles in the leg skin, pigmented spots and uneven color increased with age, but skin roughness, dryness, shining, or skin cracking was not associated with age. On the contrary, anomalies around pores such as prominence of pores, buried hair, orlblliculitis were more frequently observed in the younger group and highly correlated with removal of body hain Emotional Change Caused by the Use of Skin Care Products Masami Senoo, Yuko Takemoto, Ichiro Iida, Yoshio Sugaya, Hideo Jingu Research Development Division, KOSE Corporation, Kanazawa Institute of Technology One of the principal effect of skin care products is the change in the emotion, such as "comfortableness." The "property of the material," "ell•ct on the skin"and "prel•rence"is the most common way of evaluating skin care products, and "emotion"is a factor which is hardly used. Accordingly, we have tried to detect the emotional changes in time transition after the use of"washing cream," "lotion" and "emulsion" by two methods--the "magnitude estimation" for fhmishing the quantitative data and the "protocol analysis" for the qualitative data. As a result, the change in the emotion was observed both in quantity and quality, at every item. Instantaneous refreshment due to washing the lhce is characteristic of "washing cream." The emotion which moved to pleasure switched to displeasure as the skin surface became dry. But when the "lotion" quenched this thirst, the emotion turned to the pleasure again although it's effect did not last. And the "emulsion" which keeps up the moisture and pleasure made the panels feel "comfortableness." These results varied according to the group in which the panels belonged to. From this experiment, we were able to connect the change in the emotion with the use of skin care products. We believe that this method can be applied as a new evaluation for skin care products. The Development of the Technique Objectively Estimating Impressions of Facial Configuration Sakura Inoue, Mieko Yamamoto, Kazuhiro Yamazaki Fundamental Technology Laboratories, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc. To perfbrm make-up appreciating the features of individual lhce, the make-up technique abstracted the attractiveness of the recognized facial features is important. In this study, we tried to elucidate the important factors when we recognize the pattern of other's entire lhce, and to develop the method that objectively interprets the lhctors from a face image. The face photographs of Japanese women in their twenties were used in the experiments. The first experiment was done to find out the important factors in the recognition of faces. The subjects were given the task to classify 112 facial photographs based on the criterion of"resemblance." The result of cluster analysis showed that faces were classified into 5 categories, and it was elucidated that the impressions such as "the size of the eyes" and "the contour of the face below the eyeg' are essential factors in categorizing the face. In the second experiment, the subjects evaluated the impression of the same photographs based on the two lhctors. The multiple regression analysis was applied to 57 measured values in the face image as explanatory variable and impression values obtained by subjects' evaluation as criterion variable. As a result, the impression value was estimated by the selected 10 measured values in the face image. Furthermore, we developed a facial configuration map on which the face image can be plotted by the axes of two thctors. Face images plotted onto the map were classified into the 5 categories at an accuracy rate of nearly 80%, thus confirming the validity that two factors were essential in recognizing faces. The facial configuration map made it possible to objectively assess facial features. We think these results contribute to develop the make-up technique appreciating the features of individual face.