ABSTRACTS 2 5 3 Characterization of Ethyl Cellulose as W/O-Type Emulsifier and Application for Sunscreen Fumiaki Matsuzaki, Nobuyuki Yoshino, Toshio Yanaki, Takashi Matsumoto, Hideo Nakajima, Shoji Nishiyama Basic Research Center, Product Development Center, Shiseido Co. Ltd. The characterization of ethyl cellulose (EC) as a W/O - type emulsifier was studied. The results of emulsification with various oils found that EC was able to emulsify polar oils. The mechanism of emulsification was evaluated with the fluorescein labeled EC (FL-EC). As FL-EC exist on the interface of oil and water, and a continuous phase, it was suggested that (1) the stability of the emulsion was depended on the adsorption of EC on the interface and (2) EC can form a stable structure in the continuous phase. As the stability of the emulsion was inferior to that of emulsion using a surfactant, the improvement of the stability was studied. It was found that the stability of the emulsion was able to be improved by the addition of isostearic acid and sodium carboxy methyl cellulose. Since this base could emulsify of polar oils, the base could be useful one for sunscreen formulae. EC emulsified a UV absorbent and gave a high water resistance. Hair Growing Activity of Procyanidins Ayako Kamimura, Tomoya Takahashi, Yoshiharu Yokoo Tsukuba Research Laboratories, Kyowa Hakko Kogyo Co., Ltd. For the purpose of finding active compounds and developing hair-growing agentswhich really possess measurable curing effects on male pattern baldness, we mapped out a strategy to find materials which directly affect the hair follicles and promote hair epithelial cell growth. We assembled a collection of more than one thousand plant extracts, one of which, in methanol extract from grape seeds, we found to possess growth-promoting activity of about 150% relative to controls. In an attempt to identify and elucidate the mode of action of these active compounds, we repeated the purification process of our grape seed extract using column chromatography and hair epithelial cell growth promoting assays. Finally, we identified the active compounds as proanthocyanidins. We also found that proanthocyanidins possess anagen phase inducing hair-growing activity in C3H mouse model. We isolated procyanidin B-2 of high purity from apples and found that it possesses growth-promoting activity on hair epithelial cells at a very high rate of 300% relative to controls. We report here on our investigations centering on the effects ofprocyanidin B-2 on target cells in the skin the in vivo hair- growing activity of procyanidin B-2 using the C3H mouse model and on our toxicological studies on procyanidin B-2 to test whether it is safe for administration to human skin. Determination of Procaine Hydrochloride and Dibucaine Hydrochloride in Lotions, Milky Lotions and Creams by HPLC Tadashi Uchino, Hiroshi Tokunaga, Masanori Ando National Institute of Health Sciences Procaine hydrochloride and dibucaine hydrochloride are commercially used as local anesthesia, but these ingredients are incompatible for cosmetics as per public comment of Ministry of Health and Welfare of Japanese Government in 1986 (ER -2 Notification No.100 of March 12, 1986). In order to find the ingredients of incompatibility in cosmetics effectively and for the safety of cosmetics, we have estimated the determination method of procaine hydrochloride and dibucaine hydrochloride by HPLC and applied the method to the analysis of cosmetics. Procaine hydrochloride and dibucaine hydrochloride in the lotions or milky lotions or creams were extracted with water or methanol. The extract was analyzed by HPLC using the column (Shiseido CAPCELL PAK C18, 4.6x250mm), mixture of acetonitrile and 50mM phosphate buffer (pH5) (37:3 or 65:35) were used as the mobile phase with the UV detector (detection wavelength:296 or 228nm). By the use of the above analytical method we made it sure that procaine hydrochloride and dibucaine hydrochloride could be determined without the interference of the ingredients.