212 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE PROTECTION OF ARTIFICIAL HAIRCOLOR Bruce Locke, Ph.D. and Janusz Jachowicz, Ph.D. International Specialty Products, Wayne, New Jersey Prevention of fading of natural and artificial haircolor is subject of intensive research in many cosmetic laboratories. Several papers and patents related to this area were published in recent years [1-3]. There were also a number of commercial products, which claimed efficacy in color loss prevention, introduced into the marketplace. This area is also connected with a development of new photo-absorbers of the UVB and especially UVA type, and with introduction of antioxidants and/or free radical scavengers into haircare products. It is generally agreed that the process of color loss of dyed hair has several contributing elements such as (1) removal of a dye during shampooing, (2) decomposition of hairdye upon absorbing light, and (3) decomposition of the dye in the dark. In addition to this, the dyes exhibit different sensitivities to UVB (280 - 320 nm), UVA (320 -400 nm), Visible (370 - 780 nm), and IR (750 - 2800 nm) portions of solar radiation. It has been demonstrated •.at Visible and UVA light are mostly responsible for the photo-fading of artificial hair-color. In this work, we have reassessed the contributions of various portions of radiation to the process of photo-fading by using special filters which can effectively block UVB and UVB/UVA light. Results indicate •.at considerable color protection can be achieved by employing combinations of UVB and UVA photo-absorbers. Figure I demonstrates color protection offered by glass UV filters which completely block light below 400 nm. In this work color protection ranged from 27-63% depending on the time samples were exposed for. 12 Figure 1' Total color changes in dyed hair samples covered with UV filters or quartz plates exposed to artificial sunlight. 10 Quartz 2 • UV Filter • i 0 10 20 30 40 27% Protection Irradiation Time {Hrs} 6O

2002 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC MEETING 213 We have also carried out experiments to demonstrate the color protection effects by employing selected absorbers in the concentration range 0.5% - 6.0% in leave-in and rinse-off products. In particular, we have explored the use of dodecyl-[3-(p-dimethylaminobenzamido)propyl] dimethylammonium p-tosylate (DDABDT), and PVP/DMAPMA Copolymer - Benzophenone-4 in several cosmetic formulations. Furthermore, we have performed theoretical calculations of photoprotection for individual absorbers and their mixtures. A good agreement between theoretical model and experimental data was established. Figure 2 illustrates color protection offered by a formulation containing 0.5% Benzophenone-3 and 0.5% DDABDT. This example, along with other work to be presented, illustrates the extent to which UV absorbers can be expected to protect dyed hair color. Figure 2: Color change for dyed hair as a function of irradiation time. 12 Untreated • Treated with formulation containing 0.5% • • Benzophenone-3 and 0.5% DDABDT. 10 0 10 20 30 40 Irradiation Time $0 References: [ 1 ] - L.J.Wolfram and L.Albrecht, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 82, 179 (1987). [2] - E. Hoting and M. Zimmcnna• J. Soc. Cosrnet. Chern., 48, 79 (1997). [3] - F.W.Marschner and F. Schebece, USP 5, 045,307.