Table II sam12les: "Kamal Kajal" India Dubai Amorphous (Paraffin wax) Karpur (Bombay) carbon Kajali Caster oil Madh wax base "Khojati ® Surma India Sharj ah/Dubai Zincite (Calcite + Aragonite) Sange Basari Deluxe" (Bombay) (Amorphous carbon) S. Syah (Quartz) (Magnetite) Gile Aurkh "Khojati ® Surma India Ajman/Dubai/ Galena Zincite Cerussite Asmad Sada Aswad" (Bombay) Sharjah Sange-e-Basari Sufoof-e-Syah "Khojati ® Surma India Dubai/Sharjah/Ras Galena (Anglesite) Asmad ("Ground in Sada" (Bombay) Al-Khaimah (Cerussite) different natural extracts") "Surma Al-Sheri- India Dubai/Sharjah/ Galena (Anglesite) Surma Black fain" Ajman (Cerussite) Kafe Darya Phaitkarishudh Kafoor BhimSemi "Special Hayati India Dubai Amorphous Calcite (Portlandite) Camphor (Kaphoor) Export Quality (Bombay) carbon (Graphite) Boric acid powder Surma No. 13" Gulab Jal (Rose- water) Carbon black ® W ord(s) preceding this symbol are registered trade names. 2% Camphor 5% Kohl 65% Castor oil 28% "Madh" wax 83.962% "Stone from Basra" 12.642% "Black from oil of almond" 3.396% "Wet and red"? 68.807% "A (crushed if a powder) rock from Saudi Arabia" 20.184% "Stone from Basra" 11.009% "Black from oil of almond" 100% "A (crushed if a powder) rock from Saudi Arabia" 70% Black kohl 15% Unknown 13% "White potassium"? 2% Camphor 6% Camphor 5% Boric acid 19% Rose-water 70% Black carbon Camphor Amorphous carbon Castor oil Beeswax Calcium/Iron/Zinc mineral Amorphous carbon Unknown Galera Calcium/Iron/Zinc mineral Amorphous carbon Galena Galena Unknown A white potassium salt? Camphor Camphor Boric acid/sassolite Rose-water Amorphous carbon - r tp - r ..., , z u n 0 "'O 0 (Fl - ..., 0 z 0 'Tl 0 :::c r ,...... ,...... \D
120 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE lated from Farsi for sample "Surma Farid Ara") and "rose water" and "Greek herbs and rose water" (both translated from Urdu for samples "Lateef Surma 'surma sada mix'" and "Lateef Surma 'sukh chen sada,' " respectively). The other three with qualitative "con- tents data" are more specific about their contents (but give no amounts/percentages). Extra information/translation/interpretation is given in italics (in parentheses) after the (below) "contents data" of these three samples. For the sample "Al Haramain Ethmed": "It is the natural Ithmed stone powder, sulphur of Antinion (black and red)" (this is referring to the often-quoted, but never yet seen by us, idea that antimony sulphide-the mineral stibnite-is the main component of the sample: none was found in this sample, the major phase found being lead sulphide). For the sample "Hashmi ® Kajal" (in tube form, with a cardboard holder on which is printed its "contents data"): "Ingredients: Zinc oxide (B.P.) (zincite, none found), waxes (B.P .) (paraffin wax was found), processed carbon black (amor- phous carbon was found), herbs, clarified butter, cinnamomun, camphora (camphor, none found)." For the sample "Hashmi Surma Sunef' (translated from very fine-print Urdu on its box lid): "Surma Black" (often meaning galena, which was the major phase found here), "Kushta-just" (probably a zinc compound, zincite was found), "Kafoor" (camphor, none found), "Warq Naqra" (coconut, possibly the ground husk), "Arq Badyan" (currently of unknown meaning) and "Mameera-o-deger Jary Bootiyam" (mixture of herbs). As regards data on the medicinal effects from using a particular kohl sample, it was found that a total of fifteen samples (nine in Table I and six in Table II) had this written information (usually on an enclosed leaflet). Five of the six samples from Table II have had their medicinal effects of usage data discussed in a previous publication (1) and, with one exception (the sample "Surma Al-Sherifain," see below), will not be repeated here. The sixth sample from Table II, "Hind Ka Noor Eye Liner," had a leaflet inside its box that gave some medicinal effects of usage data in (colloquial) Arabic. On translation it was found to say: (this kohl is extremely useful for/against) "reducing cold," "eye ache," "all diseases of the eye," "heat in the eye," "improves eye-sight and strengthens vision," and also "can be used by adults and children. " As this sample consists of amorphous carbon (the major phase), talc, and quartz (minor phases)-none of which are likely to give toxicity-the use of this kohl would be unlikely to make matters worse if used (externally) for the above "conditions. " This kohl sample has been seen by us in many Middle Eastern souks, and only in two cases were enclosed leaflets found (in this study and in our Cairo study (3)). Three of the nine such samples in Table I gave only limited information on their medicinal effects of usage. Such phrases occur as: "It glazes the vision and helps the eyelashes to grow better, treats and removes redness" (sample "Zikra Al Haramain," which has galena as its major phase) "Extremely soothing to the eyes ........It also works as an antidote to eye irritation due to pollution and dust particles .........It is an extremely beneficial tonic for weak eyes" (sample "Khojati® Toop Anjan®," which has amorphous carbon as its major phase) and "Most useful for the diseases of the eye" (translated from Urdu for sample "Shabnami Surma tark Chashma," a white sample with sassolite as its major phase). Commenting on the above it must be said that neither (matte) galena or amorphous carbon (or their associated minor phases) will give the above-stated medicinal effects of usage for the first two of the above samples, and while sassolite is both a mild antiseptic and a bacteriostatic material, its ability to be "useful" for all diseases of the eyes is questionable. A fourth sample from Table I, "Al Haramen Ethmed," has on an enclosed leaflet (in English and Arabic) a lot of information on
Previous Page Next Page