VIRGIN OLIVE OIL–BASED COSMETIC CREAMS 379 without an apparent effect on the odor of the resulting cosmetic cream. Fig. 3 shows the infl uence of the concentration of oil D and the emulsion processing method on the defec- tiveness perceived in the odor of the resulting creams. The defectiveness intensity in the odor of creams prepared from the oil D was found to increase signifi cantly with increasing oil concentration. All cold-processed creams had odor of higher defectiveness intensity than the odor of the corresponding hot-processed creams. This refl ects a signifi cant infl u- ence of the temperature used in the emulsion preparation process, and the possible loss, during hot processing, of volatile components responsible for the defective attributes perceived in the odor of the starting oil. In particular, no signifi cant difference was found between the defectiveness intensity per- ceived in the odor of creams containing 3% of oil D and in the odor of hot-processed creams prepared with any of the other oils. Therefore, a defective olive oil (ordinary vir- gin) may be satisfactorily used at a low concentration to prepare a cosmetic cream by the hot emulsion preparation method. CONCLUSIONS The fruitiness and defectiveness intensities perceived in the odor of cosmetic creams were found to depend on the emulsion preparation method and the fi nal oil concentration in the cream. Overall, these results show that the hot emulsion processing method enabled a partial reduction of unpleasant odor attributes, compared with cold-processed creams. Neverthe- less, oils with a slightly fruity odor (intensity below three on the COI scale) may be con- veniently selected for the preparation of cold-processed cosmetic creams. Oil concentration was found to affect the odor of the resulting cream only when the start- ing oil had intense odor. Ordinary virgin oil may be satisfactorily used for the preparation of only hot-processed creams at a low oil concentration. REFERENCES (1) H. Fishman, “Cosmetic, Past, Present, Future,” in The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics, Basic Sci- ence, M. Scholossman. Ed. (Allured Publishing Corporation, Carol Strem, Illinois, 2000), Vol. 1, pp. 1–10. Figure 3. Defectiveness intensity in the odor of creams prepared from oil D.
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