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J. Cosmet. Sci., 69, 203–212 (May/June 2018) 203 Investigating Film Properties of Polymers Used in Anhydrous Sunscreen Formulations Using Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM): Polymer/Polymer Interactions and Their Relation to Vapor Transmission WILLIAM THOMPSON, DIANE KENNEDY, TIMOTHY GILLECE, ROGER L. MCMULLEN, LARRY SENAK, and HANI FARES, Ashland Specialty Ingredients G.P. Bridgewater, NJ (W.T., D.K., T.G., R.L.M., L.S., H.F.) Accepted for publication May 2, 2018. Synopsis A mechanistic understanding of the role of polymers in waterproofi ng anhydrous sunscreen formulations has been hypothesized in the past, but has never been clearly established. In this article, we demonstrate the utility of fi eld emission scanning electron microscopy (SEM) to generate images of sunscreen fi lms in the presence and absence of several polymers. VA/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymer was studied alone and in combination with hydroxypropyl cellulose and acrylates/dimethicone copolymer. Anhydrous sunscreen formulations were sprayed onto stratum corneum substrates and left to dry. SEM micrographs of treated stratum corneum sections were then collected at various magnifi cations. Vapor transmission data were collected using an evaporimeter to understand the permeability of these fi lms in the presence and absence of fi lm formers. Examination of the SEM images reveals that after spraying the product onto a layer of corneocytes, the sunscreen fi lters formed a hydrophobic barrier over the skin, whereas added polymers formed fi lms over the sunscreen layer. The shape of the fi lm formed by various polymers and its porosity were infl uenced by chemistry and concentration. When more than one polymer was incorporated in the sunscreen formulation, the interactions between the polymers infl uenced the formation of the fi lm. Cumulative evaporimeter data indicated that the sunscreen phase had the highest reduction in cumulative evaporation rate (39.3%/h) followed by the addition of a fi lm former to the spray, which reached an additional reduction of 17.9%/h in the best case. This method was also used to examine the fi lm properties of a commercial sun protection factor 30 sunscreen product containing VA/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymer. SEM micrographs of the commercial product applied to skin showed the same fi ngerprint as prototype formulations containing VA/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymer. Overall, this method can be used by sun care scientists in the development and optimization of anhydrous sunscreen sprays. INTRODUCTION Over the past few years, aerosol sunscreen formulations have been gaining popularity among consumers, as compared to traditional creams and lotions. This is mainly Address all correspondence to Hani Fares at hfares@ashland.com.