266 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY those cold-creams, because when rubbed into their hands, droplets of water appeared on the skin, which water they thought they had pressed out of their skin or even out of their blood lines in the skin. They thought this was surplus water in the body, and little did they realize that the water came from the cold- cream itself, resulting from bad emulsions which decomposed by the slightest interference. The first World War, which changed many habits, gave youth a new standing because it was youth that fought the war which brought together peoples not only of many nations but even of two continents. Many customs which had been con- sidered wrong were placed on a new moral level. And it was during the period of time shortly after the war that prominent French perfume and cosmetic manufacturers established their associate companies in the United States. New and increased demand for perfumes and toilet goods preparations surged up in all corners of the Union, and the indus- try grew in leaps and bounds. However, the industrial develop- ment in America differed from that which was at the time the center of the world's perfume industry, both in quantity and quality. French perfumes were unsurpassed they continued to grow in import- ance. In the United States, the small cosmetic industry had some time before established a solid founda- tion. With the creation of a great many new products, particularly OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS along the lines of vanishing or all- purpose creams, and with the ap- pearance of face and body powders of improved quality, perfumed so artistically and profusely as to re- place at least in part the more ex- pensive perfumes, this industry grew in its importance beyond anything known in any country in Europe, including France. Un- questionably, the easy accessibility of many of the raw materials, such as mineral oils of the desired qual- ity, lanolin, fatty acids, and prac- tically all perfume raw materials, was a great stimulant for a rapid growth and development of the cos- metic industry in this country. More and more the wail of mis- placed moral antagonism against any product marketed to enhance beauty became fainter and fainter. But it must be pointed out that with the appearance of eaoh new toilet preparation, a new fight for its introduction, for its use in wider and wider circles, for its acceptance not only in the more liberal think- ing circles of society, had to be car- ried on by continuous advertising, institutional or direct, and by en- lightening talks in women's socie- ties and associations. Many of us living in such great cities as New York or Chicago and moving in circles of people whose thinking is similar to our own, be- lieve that such resistance to cosmet- ics can no longer be found, and is an abolished, if not even a foreign, thought to everybody in the United States. I doubt that this assump- tion is correct, and surely most of

COSMETICS AND THE FUTURE 267 you will recall the gradual, the very gradual introduction and ex- pansion in the use of lipstick, not to speak of such more specialized beautifying agents in the eye make- up line as mascara and eyebrow pen- cils, and even the current resistance to tints and dyes for the hair. Not too long ago, I believe I read an article written by our dis- tinguished vice-president, Dr. Mc- Donough, who expressed the opin- ion that the cold-wave idea would find much quicker and wider ac- ceptance were it not for the fear of many girls that its use might well become the subject of some mighty critical talks in the circles of the town in which they were living. Time alone will correct that. Natural[y, we must admit that a good many wrong ideas, wrong ap- plications in poorly studied and ill- prepared toilet articles brdught on the market during the last 35 years have often done harm, and dis- couraged many prospective users. Not too many years ago, the number of men who could call themselves perfumers could be counted on the fingers of two hands, and almost the same was true of the number of cosmetic chemists who devoted their time exclusively to that specialized chemistry and art. Today, as you know, the situation has changed, but it is necessary to review certain aspects of the industry historically, to iso- late all the good points and to study the errors which led to many fail- ures. Man)' of you are qualified to speak of the artistic end which plays such an important role in the distribution of cosmetics. We manufacturers of raw materials have been almost solely concerned with the quality of our products, and the desire to find new products which either could replace ad- vantageously an old one, or could lead to a new preparation, or give an old preparation a new and more valuable quality. I have taken the trouble of look- ing up in the unabridged Webster the meaning of the word, "cos- metic," and its possible origin. The Greek word "kosmetikos" re- fers to one's skill in decorating and beautifying. That word itself has as its basis the Greek word "kos- mos" which primarily means order and harmony. It appears that his- tory is correct in placing the philos- ophy of the ancient Greek culture on a high plane within the realm of philosophical thinkers. And whereas the ordinary man perhaps does not immediately see the con- nection between beautifying, order, and harmony, and the secondary meaning of the wold "kosmos" which means the world and/or the universe, the Grecian philosophers had thought it out and had visual- ized it. In their highly developed sense of beauty and harmony, they would not like to see the world and the universe in any way other than an arranzement full of natural order, skillfully and artistically har- monized, full of beauty in every sense and direction. That was their idea of a perfect "kosmos" or