JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Finally, how can the Mothe• Chart be used in the creation of a new note ? The most interesting, and even amusing procedure is to select any two substances of long evaporation, and to mix them in nine progressive proportions, asl.9 2-8 3.7 4.6 5-5 6-4 7.3 8.2 and 9.1. If the two chosen aromatics will blend then one of these mixtures will be a perfect balance, when neither can be detected by the nose as a separate entity, but when each contributes its odour quota to the new note. This simple pro- cedure can be applied just as successfully to the flower compounds that are to be used to enhance the basic fragrance, and the note will be further rein- forced and modified by suitable substances selected from the chart in accord- ance with their volatility, and in as cunning a manner as possible, which will, of course, depend upon the imagination of the perfumer. Another procedure, in which the chart is only useful after the base has been created, is to employ the above arithmetical system to any two already compounded flower oils, such as violet and carnation. When their true blend has been found, the same arithmetical system is again used with this blend as one of the units, while the other should be a long-lasting compound, such as an amber. This will yield a final basic blend of great and uncopyable complexity owing to the number of different constituents in the three com- pounds, and it can be further reinforced if desired in its middle and top notes by reference to the chart, and perhaps ultimately flowered wi•h orange, rose and jasmin absolutes to yield a symphonic fragrance. In conclusion, the depth of such a creation-merits the liberal use of the animal infusions of musk, ambergris and civet, which will impart life and diffusion to the whole. Here, then, is an odour classification of practical value, which, in the hands of an experienced artist, will not only reduce his time and labour by avoiding unnecessary experiments of a futile nature, but will also enable him to select with certainty the substances of proved value, knowing beforehand just what part they will play in his finished creation. DURATION OF EVAPORATION TABLE TOP NOTES 1. Acetophenone 2. Benzyl formate Almonds Bols de rose Amyl acetate Ethyl benzoate Benzaldehyde Limes distilled Benzyl acetate Linalol Ethyl acetate Mandarin Ethyl acetoacetate Methyl salicylate Isobutyl acetate Octyl acetate Methyl benzoate Phenylethyl acetate Niaouli Phenylethyl formate 90

A CLASSIFICATION OF ODOUR$ AND ITS USES phenylethyl propionate phenylethyl salicylate Benzyl cinnamate Coriander para cresyl methyl ether para cresyl acetate para cresyl isobutyrate Cuminic aidehyde Cyclohexanyl butyrate Decyl formate Dimethyl benzyl acetate Dimethyl benzyl carbinol Ethyl decine carbonate Ethyl salicylate Methyl acetophenone Musk 3 per cent Myrrh oil Octyl isobutyrate Pennyroyal Petitgrain para Sassafras Spearmint Terpineol Citronellol Cummin Dimethyl octanol Eucalyptus Geranyl benzoate Lavender Methyl butyrate Methylmethyl salicylate Myrtle Nonyl aidehyde Phenylethyl alcohol Sage Dimethyl acetophenone Ethyl phenylacetate Neroli--Italian Nonyl acetate Terpinyl acetate Para tolyl aldehyde Bay Bergamot Caraway Cedrat Citronellyl formate Copaiba oil Grape fruit Isobutyl phenylacetate Linalyl benzoate Phenylethyl benzoate Phenylmethyl carbinyl acetate P•myl Propionate P•niseed Benzyl Isobutyrate . Benzyl propionate Decyl acetate Ethyl heptoate Geraniol--Java Geranyl isobutyrate Ginger Methyl octine carbonate Nonyl alcohol Pansy Peppermint--J apanese Rue Tansy Thyme white Violet absolute 10 per cent Amyl salicylate Benzyl salicylate Cedarwood Citronella Ceylon Citronellyl acetate Ethyl anthranilate Geraniol ex Palmarosa Isobutyl benzoate Isobutyl salicylate Lemon Linalyl propionate Nerol Phenyl ethyl valerianate Rhodinol Rose Otto--French Wormseed Dimethyl nonenol Geranyl butyrate Laurel leaf Methyl antsate Neryl acetate Peppermint--American Spike lavender Tagette Thyme red !0. P•bsinthe Camomile Diphenyl methane Diphenyl oxide Ethyl antsate Lavandin Linalyl acetate Methyl eugenol Methyl phenylacetaldehyde Orange bitter Phenylpropyl propionate !1. Amyl butyrate Carrot seed Cubebs Decyl alcohol Galbanu•n oil ttyacinthe absolute Immortelle abs. incolore Kuromoji ,- Linalyl cinnamate Linalyl formate Lovage 91