WAX AND THE COSMETIC CHEMIST 2b. Branched chains (e.g., free oxy-acids in ester waxes, particu- larly in Opal wax and in cork wax free fatty acids with side- chains, etc. To some extent also ketones have to be considered under this heading). Somewhat polar, heterogeneous chains: 3a. Molecules with one "oxygen-link"--or more of them--in the chain, e.g. R•.O.R• or .R, (ethers) (e.g., in IG-wax V). R•.CO.O.R• or .Rs (esters) (in ester waxes). Di- or multifunctional components can give rise to the formation of di- or poly-ethers (e.g. IG-wax V) and -esters, -lactones, -lactides, etc. furthermore to those of the polar oxy-esters and. acidsesters. The presence of many of these compounds has recently been established in natural ester waxes. Under this heading also fall the poly-oxyethylenes (carbowaxes, etc.). 3b. Molecules with one "nitrogen-link"--or more of them--in the chain, e.g. R.CO.NH'•---• (e.g., anilides, xylidides, etc., in amide waxes). R•CO.NH.(CH,) n.NH.CO.R• or .R• (Di- or polyamides, in other amide waxes). or multiple chain-molecules with "hydrogen-bridges" between them: Molecules with one "O•H•O"-link---or more of them--in the chain. R• .O.H--.O .R• or .R• (between two moles of alcohol/, R•.C.O.H..-O: C.R• or .R, (between two moles of fatty acid), 8 6 R•.O.H .... O.R,. •or .R, (between one mole each of alcohol i• •or .R: and ether). 4b. Molecules with one "N,--,H,--,O" link---or more of them--in the chain. R•N .... H.O.R, or .R• (between one mole each of alcohol i/I• and amine), R•.C.N.H .... O:C.R, or.R• (between two moles of a non- •jI/I /(1 substituted amide, or two substi- ii, tuted amides). For further details about hydrogen-bridges see Reference 2. 4. Double 4a. 133

JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OY COSMETIC CHEMISTS It must be realised that in almost all types of wax there are chain s present which belong to different classes of configuration. DEFINITIONS To amplify the summary given in connection with the changed concept of wax, the old and the new definitions are shown side by side. By necessity, allied materials are also considered. It must, however, be clearly understood that the modern concept and definition of wax have not penetrated, as yet, into many textbooks, and it can be expected that it may need a number of years before this aim will be achieved. Unfortunately, some circles that have little or no actual knowledge of the nature and true characteristics of wax, accept what they can find in other textbooks and works of reference as classical--and therefore established--facts. OLD I)EFINITIONS Oils and Fats: Liquid to solid esters of mono-functional fatty acids and of glycerol, which are practically free of unsaponifi- able matter. [Note ! In the analytical in- terpretation o[ fats and waxes water-soluble alcohols are not regarded as unsaponifiable mat- ter. Thus, the "unsaponifiable matter" value of waxes con- taining both water-insoluble and water-soluble alcohols (or other water-soluble ester com- ponents, etc.) causes a serious misrepresentation not only of this value but of all the other "constants" concerned.] NEW I)EFINITIONS Oils and Fats: By general consent, these terms have already been used as a generic concept for a good many years. Strangely enough, in this case, the conventional fat chemists have more or less accepted the fact with- out much ado. In practice, popular, and technological parlance, the terms are understood to comprise many water-insoluble, organic materials, which are at room temperature oily liquids, fatty semi-solids or fatty solids, irrespective of their chemical composition or their origin (such as mineral oils, tar oils, silicone oils, mineral fats and greases). There is no danger of confusion, as vegetable or animal oils and fats are usually described as such, or--in case it is i ustified--as edible oils or fats, or called olive oil, etc. True or Genuine Waxes: Liquid to solid esters of monofunctional fatty acids and monofunctionM fatty alcohols, both being water-insoluble. The designation "True" or "Genuine Wax" was only ap- plicable to ester waxes of animal or vegetable origin (irrespec- tive of whether they con- tained much of said esters or only little of them). Thus mon- 134 W1196•S : Thermoplastic (organic) solids with specific consistency and technological characteristics (uses), irrespective of their chemical composition or origin. The principal technological require- ments comprise: production of gloss on buffing, formation of protective and in-:. sulating layers (on paper, fruit, food,' electrical components, etc.), of ointments (in conjunction with oils), and of gels, pastes, or mixture. masses (see below), :