THE EFFECT UPON EMULSIONS OF THE HYDROXY COMPOUNDS IN BEESWAX Viscosities were taken by measuring the rate of flow through a standard capillary at 25 ø C., mineral oil giving a time of 89 seconds under these conditions. Flow time in seconds. "Solution" Immediately After 24 hours (re-stirred) 1 95 105 2 120 135 3 116 122 4 109 119 As might be expected, the presence of hydroxyl radicles tends to reduce solubility in mineral oil and to reduce the viscosity of the resulting "solution." The addition of hydroxyl-containing products to the acetylated wax tends to reduce the viscosity, but not to the figure given by the untreated wax "solution." ABSORPTION SPECTRA EXAMINATION The U.V. spectra of beeswax before and after acetylation was measured in cyclohexane. As might have been anticipated, acetylation hardly changed the spectrum, which was completely uncharacteristic and from which no information could be obtained. Unfmtunately, no opportunity was afforded to study the I.R. absorption spectra, which might well provide detailed information on the nature and distribution of the functional groups in beeswax. DISCUSSION OF RESULTS When the free hydroxyl radicles present in beeswax constituents are blocked by acetylation the properties of the wax are modified in certain directions. Acetylation naturally brings about a fall in acid value and an increase in ester value and, consequently, a considerable increase in the ratio number (E.V./A.V.). The melting point of the acetylated wax is very slightly higher than the untreated wax. Typical cold creams based on beeswax and borax show changed proper- ties when the beeswax is replaced by acetylated wax. The pH of creams A and B are the same. During the manufacture of creams A and B little or no differences were noted but, on cooling, the cream containing untreated wax wa• rather more shiny and the grain more fine. After standing in screw-top jars cream A (untreated wax) remained shiny, did not appear to have lost water from the surface, had not shrunk and, in fact, appeared to have retained its original fine emulsion characteristics. Cream B, on the other hand, had deteriorated considerably, having become dull and translucent on the surface, shrunk from the sides of the jar and lost water. As evidenced 273
JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS by the effect of adding an oil soluble dye to the creams, the cream made from acetylated beeswax is susceptible to certain added ingredients, this effect not being apparent in the cream made from the untreated beeswax. Emulsions of the w/o type based on beeswax and lime water are not materially effected when the beeswax is replaced by acetylated wax. The limited solubility of beeswax in mineral oil is somewhat increased by acetylation and the viscosity of the dispersion is enhanced. In attempting to assess the effect of adding compounds which contain hydroxyl groupings to the acetylated beeswax there are obvious difficulties to be considered. In the first place, the exact nature of the beeswax "alcohols" are not known or at any rate not available in the literature. They may be hydroxy acids, hydroxy alcohols, any one of a variety of alcohols or, indeed, a combination of these types. The selection of cetyl alcohol was an obvious step, as this approximates to the straight chain fatty alcohols which are mentioned in the literature. The ethylene oxide condensate was selected as a contrast to the oil-soluble cetyl alcohol. THE EFFECT OF REINTRODUCING HYDROXY COMPOUNDS TO ACETYLATED BEESWAX (A ) Cetyl alcohol When used in conjunction with acetylated beeswax as in cream E, the pH of this cream is 8.5 compared with 8.7 to 8.8 for creams A and B. If anything, the presence of cetyl alcohol enhances the ease of manufacture of the cold c•eam, but tends slightly to reduce the shiny surface and to cause a more granular structure. On standing in jars the presence of cetyl alcohol appeared to have pre- prevented shrinkage but did not inhibit water loss from the cream. In the early stages cetyl alcohol, judged from the microscopical examination, seems to have improved the emulsion based on acetylated wax, but on standing the cream is far from uniform. (b) Cetyl alcohol/ethylene oxide condensate. The above product appears slightly to increase the pH of the cream based on acetylated beeswax. Its most significant effect is the reduction in vis- cosity of the cream. The improvement in the acetylated beeswax cream due to the presence of the ethylene oxide condensate is most marked so far as particle size and stability are concerned. SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS It is well known that additions oI certain hydroxyl-containing compounds to surface-active agents often result in improved emulsifying performance. The acids present in beeswax form soaps with bases and it is possible that the alcohols present in the wax form complexes with the soap to produce 274
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