338 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Polyvinyl Pyrrolidone (P VP) The basic patent showing this material's detoxifying and anti- irritant properties (when complexing iodine and other halogens) was granted to Shelanski (1) in 1956. This patent states that the PVP- iodine complex has only 10% of the toxicity of free iodine and none of its skin irritation or sensitization properties. The complex is odorless and nonstaining, yet has more antiseptic activity than iodine itself. Guttman and Higuchi (37) pointed out that phenols are also strongly complexed by PVP, retaining their activity while showing reduced irritation potential. Wilkinson et al. (38) gave details of repeated insult testing, showing reduction in reactions to both hexachlorophene and bithionol in the presence of PVP. Burnette (39) described work of Chambron wherein induction of cancer by 3,4-benzopyrene injections was reduced from 100% when the vehicle was vegetable oil to 10.7% when 40% aqueous PVP was used as the vehicle. Prescott et al. (40) make many unsupported claims that PVP can reduce allergic response and the "irritating effects of skin fatiguing agents" in cosmetics. On the other hand, PVP has been shown pre- viously (41) to reduce eye irritation in shampoos. It was not found too useful (cf. preceding pages) at 0.3% in reducing eye irritation caused by menthol but did reduce the skin and eye irritation of several cologne formulations. Orentreich (42) tested 2% paraphenylene diamine (PPD), with and without 1% PVP-K30, on 14 subjects, six of whom were known sensitives to PPD. Reactions to both preparations were almost identical, and it appears that PVP does not "desensitize" PPD. Tertiary A mine Oxides Drew and Voss (2) disclosed interesting irritation data in a Canadian patent covering combinations of tertiary amine oxides and alkyl benzene sulfonates in detergent formulations. Ratios of lauryldimethylamine oxide to sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate varying from 1:4 to 2: 1 gave the least irritation. The cetyl and myristyl analogues of this amine also increased the mildness of the sulfonate detergent. Thiodioglycolic Acid A British patent (3) claims that this acid and its amide or esters (at 0.2-10%) reduce irritation of aqueous or alcoholic hair preparations, including those containing cationic surfactants. The only substantiated data concerning the efficacy of this compound are those described in the

USE OF ANTI-IRRITANTS IN COSMETIC FORMULATING 339 preceding pages. The acid was added at 0.5% to an alcoholic anti- perspirant containing a cationic surfactant its presence increased eye irritation at 0.3%, however, it decreased eye irritation of a cologne by one-third and at 0.5% it reduced primary skin irritation of an O/W protease-containing emulsion. Zirconia Blumenthal (7) states that hydrous and carbonated hydrous zirconia form nonirritating complexes with urushiol, the diphenolic irritating factor of poison ivy. This diphenol may also be detoxified by binding with anion exchange resins of the polystyrene quaternary amine type (8). The author wishes to acknowledge the generosity of Bio-Toxicology Laboratories who donated the rabbits used in the study of the antiper- spirant formulation. (Received July 6, 1964) 1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (I2) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) (23) (24) REFERENCES Shelanski, H. A., U.S. Pat. 2,739,922, Mar. 27, 1956. Drew, H. F., and Voss, J. G., Can. Pat. 639,398, Apr. 3, 1962. Brit. Pat. 880,200, Oct. 18, 1961. Martin, G., Draize, J. H., and Kelley, E. A., Proc. Sci. Sect. Toilet Goods Assoc., 37, 2 (1962). Sutton, M. G., and Reynolds, M. M., U. S..Pat. 2,759,869, Aug. 21, 1956. Jackson, C. R., U.S. Pat. 2,860,084, Nov. 11, 1958. Blumenthal, W. B., J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists, 4, 69 (1953). Samuelson, O., Ion Exchangers in Analytical Chemistry, John Wiley & Sons, New York, 1953, p. 121. Battista, S. P., and McSweeney, E. S., J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists, 16,119 (1965). Goldemberg, R. L., Drug $2 Cosmetic Ind., 85,618 (1959). Taylor, E. A., J. Invest. Dermatol., :t7, 69 (1961). Draize, J. H., Derreal Toxicity, in Appraisal of the Safety of Chemicals in Foods, Drugs and Cosmetics, Assoc. Food and Drug Offieials of the U.S., Austin, Texas (1959). Opdyke, D. L. J., The Accommodation Phenomenon. Presented at the U.C.L.A. Con- ference on the Evaluation of Therapeutic Agents and Cosmetics (1962). Mecca, S. B., Proc. Sci. Sect. Toilet Goods Assoc., 31, 1 (1959). Mecca, S. B., Drug Allied Ind., July (1960). Kahan, H., et at., Arch. Pedlar., 74, 57 (1957). Farkas, A., U.S. Pat. 3,103,466, Sept. 10, 1963. Roboz, E., and Haagen-Smit, A. J., J. Am. Chem. Soc., 70, 3248 (1948). Goff, S., and Levenstein, I., J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists, 15,509 (1964). Goff, S. R., U.S. Pat. 2,950,255, Aug. 23, 1960. Northover, B. J., and Subramanian, G., Brit. J. Pharmacol., 16,163 (1961). Ruemale, T. A., Am. Perruiner, 75, 32, July (1960). Hertz, A., Arzneimittelforschung, 3,253 (1953). Kuchinka, R., Seifen-Oele-Fette- Wachse, 76, 9, 29, 51 (1950).