JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Four years ago I coined the phrase "de-conglomerate" in forecasting the future and I was, therefore, tickled to find in the current issue of "Fortune" an article on conglomerates, ending with these words: "Given plenty of competition, the great conglomerate movement of the 1960's might conceivably be succeeded by the great de-conglomerate movement of the 1970's." My purpose has been to provoke thought, so let us look backwards and then forwards for the lessons of the past and the questions of the future: 1. In the cosmetic field, American influence and impetus has been so great and so beneficial that the U.S.A. virtually controls the world industry. Their standards, their requirements, their marketing know- how have changed the face of the industry, and they have had a rich return. But one must reflect on the opportunities that were ignored by the British and the French. 2. The British cosmetics industry, prodded by the American houses operating here, did not wait for the Common Market. They dug deep into every market of the world and the United Kingdom now benefits to the extent of at least t20 000 000 per annum in exports, even though the profitability eventually finds its way to America. 3. The industry is no longer a "paint and powder" business but a highly scientific, exciting and useful one to the world. It is very interesting to note that one international cosmetic company alone today employs more chemists than the whole world industry did in the 30's, the 40's, and maybe the 50's. 4. Cosmetic advertising is becoming so ddightfully, but blatantly, sexy that, in stimulating as it does, desire, by using charming lovelies, one is tempted to ask whether the advertisements were influenced by the pharmaceutical side of the business in order to boost the sale of the Pill. 5. We should now ask two questions: Is the industry reaching saturation point for its products? Will there be a cutback in its growth rate? I am tempted to suggest that any fear of this could be countered by producing toiletties for children. This must obviously be the next market to be tapped. Children are such television addicts and are subjected to so much television advertising, and mature at such a frightening age that they become experts in motivating parents to keep up with the Jones's. Or, one may ask, is there a foreseeable increase in turnover to be found in special cosmetic products for consenting males? I forecast that the next big line will be "antiperspirants", dispensed, thank goodness, by aerosols.

.? . i' ' Mr. Matchan (on the left) be/rig presented with the 3Iedal [:ttcitl,• pttge 661