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Cosmet. Sci., 52, 211-224 (July/August 2001) Differential scannino calorimetry studies of sebum models MONICA R. MOTWANI, LINDA D. RHEIN, and JOEL L. ZATZ, Rutgers-The State University of New Jersey, College of Pharmacy, 160 Frelinghuysen Road, Piscataway, NJ 08854 (M.R.M., J.L.Z.), and SmithKline Beecham Consumer Healthcare, 1500 Littleton Road, Parsippany, NJ 07054 (L.D.R.), Accepted for publication April 15, 2001. Synopsis Human sebum is a mixture of triglycerides, fatty acids, wax esters, squalene, cholesterol, and cholesterol esters. P. acnes, a bacterium that is normally found on the skin, hydrolyzes certain triglycerides to fatty acids, thereby changing the sebum composition. The objective of this study was to examine the physical state of a model sebum and the effect of variations in its composition on its physical properties including (a) the carbon chain length of the components, (b) the ratio of unsaturated to saturated components, and (c) the ratio of triglycerides to fatty acids. A model sebum mixture was prepared based on a composition reported in the literature and evaluated by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). Since cholesterol and cholesterol esters contribute insignificantly to sebum composition, they were not included. Squalene was kept constant (13%), while the concentration of the rest of the components was varied. Variations of sebum were prepared by dissolving all components in a 3:1 chloroform-methanol mixture for uniformity. Subsequently the solvent was evaporated at room temperature. The samples were then analyzed using DSC. Four distinct endotherms (namely, Mp-1, Mp-2, Mp-3, and Mp-4) were observed between -50øC and 100øC. Mp-1 and Mp-2 occurred below 0øC and were contributed by unsaturated components. Mp-3 and Mp-4, which represent the saturated components, occurred above 30øC. Thus, at normal skin temperature (skin surface temperature is 32øC), sebum contains both a solid and a liquid phase. All the transition temperatures increased with an increase in carbon chain length for the same ratio of unsaturation to saturation. A replacement of unsaturated components with corresponding saturated components led to a decrease in the transition temperatures for the former (Mp-1 and Mp-2) and an increase in the transition temperatures for the latter (Mp-3 and Mp-4). Replacement of triglycerides with corresponding fatty acids (mimicking the action of anaerobic bacteria) caused an increase in Mp-2 and a decrease in Mp-4. In all cases, the final melting temperature (Mp-4) was greater than the temperature of the human skin surface (32øC) thus components contributing to these endotherms are still solids at skin temperature. All variations in the sebum model led to mixtures of solids and liquids at skin temperature. Considering a reduction in Mp-3 and/or Mp-4 to represent sebum "fluidization," it was achieved by a decrease in carbon chain length, an increase in unsaturation, or a substitution of triglycerides by corresponding fatty acids. Preferential enrich- ment with the saturated species will lead to enrichment of solids versus liquids in the sebum, presumably making it difficult for the liquid phase to dissolve the solids. It seems plausible that perturbation of the balance of solid and liquid components of sebum, such as by P. aches action, may lead to blockage of the follicle. Future research will investigate strategies to dissolve and/or liquify the solid phase of sebum. INTRODUCTION Sebaceous glands produce an oily secretion, sebum, composed of non-polar lipids. These 211