252 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Age Related Changes of Female Leg Skin Naoko Tsuji, Yuko Fukuda, Takashi Kitahara, Shigeru Moriwaki, Yoshinori Takema Biological Science Laboratories, Kao Corporation We diagnosed the leg skin condition in 74 healthy females aged 10--69 years and evaluated the relationship between age and edema, vascular prominence, body hair, or other leg skin troubles. The extent of leg edema was evaluated by scoring of skin pit when pressure was applied to the skin on the tibia, and a relationship between the skin thickness, subcutaneous tissue was evaluated by using ultra sound B-mode. With age, the pit score increased, showing edema tendency. The skin thickness decreased with age, but the subcutaneous tissue thickness was not correlated with age. Changes of skin thickness after pressure application were not associated with age, but that in the subcutaneous tissue thickness were positively correlated with age. Thus, pitting on pressure in the subcutaneous tissue (edema) increased with age. This increase is not associated with the subcutaneous tissue thickness but may be caused by increased water retention in the tissue due to qualitative deterioration of the subcutaneous tissue such as decreased compliance and elasticity and changes in vascular lhnction. Vascular prominence on the back of the leg on photos was evaluated using a scoring system. The blood vessels became more prominent with age, and even a case resembling varices was observed. Vascular prominence as well as edema may be due to a vascular hypofunction. Concerning other troubles in the leg skin, pigmented spots and uneven color increased with age, but skin roughness, dryness, shining, or skin cracking was not associated with age. On the contrary, anomalies around pores such as prominence of pores, buried hair, orlblliculitis were more frequently observed in the younger group and highly correlated with removal of body hain Emotional Change Caused by the Use of Skin Care Products Masami Senoo, Yuko Takemoto, Ichiro Iida, Yoshio Sugaya, Hideo Jingu Research Development Division, KOSE Corporation, Kanazawa Institute of Technology One of the principal effect of skin care products is the change in the emotion, such as "comfortableness." The "property of the material," "ell•ct on the skin"and "prel•rence"is the most common way of evaluating skin care products, and "emotion"is a factor which is hardly used. Accordingly, we have tried to detect the emotional changes in time transition after the use of"washing cream," "lotion" and "emulsion" by two methods--the "magnitude estimation" for fhmishing the quantitative data and the "protocol analysis" for the qualitative data. As a result, the change in the emotion was observed both in quantity and quality, at every item. Instantaneous refreshment due to washing the lhce is characteristic of "washing cream." The emotion which moved to pleasure switched to displeasure as the skin surface became dry. But when the "lotion" quenched this thirst, the emotion turned to the pleasure again although it's effect did not last. And the "emulsion" which keeps up the moisture and pleasure made the panels feel "comfortableness." These results varied according to the group in which the panels belonged to. From this experiment, we were able to connect the change in the emotion with the use of skin care products. We believe that this method can be applied as a new evaluation for skin care products. The Development of the Technique Objectively Estimating Impressions of Facial Configuration Sakura Inoue, Mieko Yamamoto, Kazuhiro Yamazaki Fundamental Technology Laboratories, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc. To perfbrm make-up appreciating the features of individual lhce, the make-up technique abstracted the attractiveness of the recognized facial features is important. In this study, we tried to elucidate the important factors when we recognize the pattern of other's entire lhce, and to develop the method that objectively interprets the lhctors from a face image. The face photographs of Japanese women in their twenties were used in the experiments. The first experiment was done to find out the important factors in the recognition of faces. The subjects were given the task to classify 112 facial photographs based on the criterion of"resemblance." The result of cluster analysis showed that faces were classified into 5 categories, and it was elucidated that the impressions such as "the size of the eyes" and "the contour of the face below the eyeg' are essential factors in categorizing the face. In the second experiment, the subjects evaluated the impression of the same photographs based on the two lhctors. The multiple regression analysis was applied to 57 measured values in the face image as explanatory variable and impression values obtained by subjects' evaluation as criterion variable. As a result, the impression value was estimated by the selected 10 measured values in the face image. Furthermore, we developed a facial configuration map on which the face image can be plotted by the axes of two thctors. Face images plotted onto the map were classified into the 5 categories at an accuracy rate of nearly 80%, thus confirming the validity that two factors were essential in recognizing faces. The facial configuration map made it possible to objectively assess facial features. We think these results contribute to develop the make-up technique appreciating the features of individual face.

ABSTRACTS 2 5 3 Characterization of Ethyl Cellulose as W/O-Type Emulsifier and Application for Sunscreen Fumiaki Matsuzaki, Nobuyuki Yoshino, Toshio Yanaki, Takashi Matsumoto, Hideo Nakajima, Shoji Nishiyama Basic Research Center, Product Development Center, Shiseido Co. Ltd. The characterization of ethyl cellulose (EC) as a W/O - type emulsifier was studied. The results of emulsification with various oils found that EC was able to emulsify polar oils. The mechanism of emulsification was evaluated with the fluorescein labeled EC (FL-EC). As FL-EC exist on the interface of oil and water, and a continuous phase, it was suggested that (1) the stability of the emulsion was depended on the adsorption of EC on the interface and (2) EC can form a stable structure in the continuous phase. As the stability of the emulsion was inferior to that of emulsion using a surfactant, the improvement of the stability was studied. It was found that the stability of the emulsion was able to be improved by the addition of isostearic acid and sodium carboxy methyl cellulose. Since this base could emulsify of polar oils, the base could be useful one for sunscreen formulae. EC emulsified a UV absorbent and gave a high water resistance. Hair Growing Activity of Procyanidins Ayako Kamimura, Tomoya Takahashi, Yoshiharu Yokoo Tsukuba Research Laboratories, Kyowa Hakko Kogyo Co., Ltd. For the purpose of finding active compounds and developing hair-growing agentswhich really possess measurable curing effects on male pattern baldness, we mapped out a strategy to find materials which directly affect the hair follicles and promote hair epithelial cell growth. We assembled a collection of more than one thousand plant extracts, one of which, in methanol extract from grape seeds, we found to possess growth-promoting activity of about 150% relative to controls. In an attempt to identify and elucidate the mode of action of these active compounds, we repeated the purification process of our grape seed extract using column chromatography and hair epithelial cell growth promoting assays. Finally, we identified the active compounds as proanthocyanidins. We also found that proanthocyanidins possess anagen phase inducing hair-growing activity in C3H mouse model. We isolated procyanidin B-2 of high purity from apples and found that it possesses growth-promoting activity on hair epithelial cells at a very high rate of 300% relative to controls. We report here on our investigations centering on the effects ofprocyanidin B-2 on target cells in the skin the in vivo hair- growing activity of procyanidin B-2 using the C3H mouse model and on our toxicological studies on procyanidin B-2 to test whether it is safe for administration to human skin. Determination of Procaine Hydrochloride and Dibucaine Hydrochloride in Lotions, Milky Lotions and Creams by HPLC Tadashi Uchino, Hiroshi Tokunaga, Masanori Ando National Institute of Health Sciences Procaine hydrochloride and dibucaine hydrochloride are commercially used as local anesthesia, but these ingredients are incompatible for cosmetics as per public comment of Ministry of Health and Welfare of Japanese Government in 1986 (ER -2 Notification No.100 of March 12, 1986). In order to find the ingredients of incompatibility in cosmetics effectively and for the safety of cosmetics, we have estimated the determination method of procaine hydrochloride and dibucaine hydrochloride by HPLC and applied the method to the analysis of cosmetics. Procaine hydrochloride and dibucaine hydrochloride in the lotions or milky lotions or creams were extracted with water or methanol. The extract was analyzed by HPLC using the column (Shiseido CAPCELL PAK C18, 4.6x250mm), mixture of acetonitrile and 50mM phosphate buffer (pH5) (37:3 or 65:35) were used as the mobile phase with the UV detector (detection wavelength:296 or 228nm). By the use of the above analytical method we made it sure that procaine hydrochloride and dibucaine hydrochloride could be determined without the interference of the ingredients.