2002 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC MEETING 217 'ø I II 0.0 __ ---- __ ---- • -- o o o o o PRE-WA•,I TYPES OF OILS PO•T4NA•H [ .VVITHOUT .WITH j PRE*WASH TYPES OF O•LS .'WITHOUT .'WITH J Rgure 7 - Comparison of Water Retenlion Index from hair treated with Bo•iing Ws, ter Rgure 8 - Comparison of Water Retention Index from UV Tin=ted Hair 432 42 ß 412 -II .,. 2OO I 178 1 I o TYPES OF OILS i lB NORMAL WTTHOUT II NORMAL WITH j II BLEACHED WITHOUT II BLEACHED WITH , Figure 9 - Compaqson of Protein Loss from Non•al and Blectlaed Hair- Salon Trial

218 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE ELLIPTICALLY OF BODY HAIR AND How To MEASURE ITS APPARENT DIAMETER F. Anthony SimioW, Ph.D., Pamela S. Wit• l, Matt Klein I and Sidney Hornby 2 •Andrew Jergens, Cincinnati, Ohio 2Mar-Tech Contract Services, Broomall, PA Humans grow hair on many parts of their bodies. The amount and density of the hair varies as a function of age and gender. Indeed within an individual the hair at different body sites is not the same. There are differences in how steroid hormones effect the growth cycle, and as will be discussed below, differences in the shape of the hair. This presentation will focus on: 1. Differences in hair parameters from different body sites. 2. How leave-on products affect the hairs' cross-sectional profile. 3. How to reproducibly measure the major axis of body hair. For many years the focus of hair research in our industry has been on the care and treatment of scalp hair. Indeed in 2001, U.S. consumers spent $6 billion dollars on hair products (cleansers, conditioners, styling aids and color combined) •. In comparison, shaving and hair removal are much smaller businesses. It has long been known that unlike Asian scalp hair, Caucasian and African- American hair is not circular in cross sectional profile. Published data showing the ratio of major/minor axes for scalp hair for the 3 major ethnic groups is shown below 2: I Major/MinorAxes Ratio I Asian Caucasian I African-Ame1.7:1 1.3:1 1:1 However, when Caucasian scalp hair is compared with other body sites, it appears to be less elliptical and more circular. MajodMinor Axes Ratio: (Mean + SEM [n =] ) Scalp Underarm Leg Male 1.37 + 0.07 (10) 2.48 + 0.14 (10) 2.58 + 0.13 (10) Female 1.38 + 0.03 (50) ND 2.23 + 0.07 (16) ND - Not Determined Hair is frequently treated with 'conditioning' leave-in and 'cleansing' wash-off, products. A priori, we would expect leave-in products to have the larger effect.