JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 290 and showed that cosmetics signifi cantly enhanced the impression of attractiveness of females. We can then suppose that we could obtain the same behavioral results with a sample of North American males. Finally, the behavioral results found in our experiment have some practical implications for female employees in bars or restaurants. It would be interesting for them to use facial makeup to enhance their incomes, especially in bars or restaurants where men go. How- ever, the use of cosmetics seems to be appropriate only with masculine clientele. These results are also interesting for the cosmetics industry. Indeed, in their product design or in their ads, companies could highlight the benefi t for women to wear cosmetics to work so that they are perceived more positively and to persuade women to use makeup in var- ious professional situations. For further reading, see references (13–20). REFERENCES (1) J. A. Graham and A. J. Jouhar, The effects of cosmetics on person perception, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 3, 199–210 (1981). (2) J. Richetin, P. Huguet, and J. C. Croizet, Les charactéristiques physiques dans les premières impres- sions: Le cas particulier de l’utilisation des cosmétiques, L’ Année Psychologique, 107, 65–86 (2007). (3) C. L. Cox and W. H. Glick, Resume evaluation and cosmetics use: When more is not better, Sex Roles, 14, 51–58 (1986). (4) J. E. Workman and K. K. Johnson, The role of cosmetics in impression formation, Cloth. Text. Res. J., 10, 63–67 (1991). (5) T. F. Cash, K. Dawson, P. Davis, M. Bowen, and C. Galumbeck, Effects of cosmetics use on the physical attractiveness and body image of American college women, J. Soc. Psy., 129, 349–355 (1989). (6) R. Nash, G. Fieldman, T. Hussey, J.-L. Lévêque, and P. Pineau, Cosmetics: They infl uence more than Caucasian female facial attractiveness, J. App. Soc. Psy., 36, 493–504 (2006). (7) R. Mulhern, G. Fieldman, T. Hussey, J. L. Lévêque, and P. Pineau, Do cosmetics enhance female Caucasian facial attractiveness. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 25, 199–205 (2003). (8) J. W. Stillman and W. E. Hensley, She wore a fl ower in her hair: The effect of ornamentation on non- verbal communication, J. Appl. Commun. Res., 1, 31–39 (1980). (9) K. L. Tidd and J. S. Lockard, Monetary signifi cance of the affi liative smile: A case for reciprocal altru- ism, Bull. Psychonom. Soc., 11, 344–346 (1978). (10) D. P. MacKinnon, Introduction to Statistical Mediation Analysis (Lawrence Erlbaum Associates., 2008). (11) N. Guéguen, The effects of women’s cosmetics on men’s courtship behavior, N. Am. J. Psychol., 10, 221–228 (2008). (12) T. F. Cash and D. W. Cash, Women’s use of cosmetics: Psycological correlates and consequences, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 4, 16–14 (1982). (13) J. Cohen, Statistical Power Analysis for the Behavioral Sciences (2nd ed.). (Lawrence Earlbaum Associates, 1988). (14) B. Fink, K. Grammer, and R. Thornhill, Human facial attractiveness in relation to skin texture and colour, J. Comp. Psy., 115, 92–99 (2001). (15) G. Kay, Dying to Be Beautiful: The Fight for Safe Cosmetics (Ohio State University Press, 2005). (16) N. Malkan, Not Just a Pretty Face: The Ugly Side of the Beauty Industry (New Society Publishers, 2006). (17) A. Marwick, Beauty in History. (Thames & Hudson, 1988). (18) W. J. McKeachie, Lipstick as a determiner of fi rst impressions of personality: An experiment for the general psychology course, J. Soc. Psy., 36, 241–244 (1952). (19) T. K. Shackelford, D. P. Schmitt, and D. M. Buss, Universal dimensions of human mate preferences. Pers. Ind. Diff., 39, 477–458 (2005). (20) M. J. Tovée, K. Tasker, and P. J. Benson, Is symmetry a visual cue to attractiveness in the human female body? Evol. Hum. Behav., 21, 191–200 (2000).

J. Cosmet. Sci., 62, 291–304 (May/June 2011) 291 Tryptophan fl uorescence in hair—Examination of contributing factors JANUSZ JACHOWICZ and ROGER L. McMULLEN, International Specialty Products, Wayne, NJ 07470. Accepted for publication January 24, 2011. Synopsis Various types of hair, including white (unpigmented), Piedmont (yellow-colored), blonde, brown, curly black of African origin, straight black of Chinese origin, and chemically processed (bleached) hair, were studied by using fl uorescence spectroscopy. Fluorescence measurements were obtained by using a single- or double-grating fl uo- rescence spectrophotometer and a bifurcated fi ber optics accessory to measure the spectra directly from the sur- face of the hair. The results have shown that all types of hair share similar fl uorescence characteristics, as recorded by excitation at 290 nm, 320 nm, 350 nm, and 380 nm, with emissions that could be ascribed to chromophores such as tryptophan (Trp), N-formylkynurenine, kynurenine, and 3-hydroxykynurenine. The relative intensities of fl uorophore emissions were found to be dependent on factors such as melanin content and the history of UV light or thermal exposure. Trp fl uorescence was also found to be dependent upon the state of the hair matrix. Softening of hair keratin by chemical reduction (breakage) of disulfi de bonds or by hydration, leads to a 50%– 100% increase in Trp emission intensity. Conversely, stiffening of the hair matrix by re-oxidation of reduced hair with hydrogen peroxide, or drying of wet hair, produces a decrease in fl uorescence intensity. The results were interpreted by invoking the behavior of certain enzymes, which demonstrate Trp quenching by neighboring disulfi de bonds or by hydrogen bonding with alanine residues, or with certain side-chain amino acids. INTRODUCTION Spectroscopic techniques have been frequently employed for the characterization of chemical and physical processes related to hair. For example, reactions occurring during photo and oxidative degradation of hair have been analyzed by IR (1), fl uorescence (2), Raman (3), and ESCA (4) spectroscopies. IR analysis was employed to identify the oxida- tion products of sulfur-containing amino acids while Raman spectroscopy may be uti- lized for simultaneous analysis of tryptophan decomposition, disulfi de bond breakage, thiol formation, and the appearance of oxidation products. Fluorescence proved to be very convenient in monitoring the photodecomposition of Trp as a result of exposure to solar radiation. These studies were primarily concerned with Trp emission, which is observed at wavelengths in the range of 335 nm to 350 nm. Since the absorption maximum of Trp is at 280 nm, it partially overlaps the UV-B region of solar radiation, which is related to a number of hair damage reactions such as surface roughening due to photodecomposi- tion of surface lipids or loss of mechanical strength. Thus, decomposition of Trp itself can be employed as an indicator of hair photo-exposure and damage.