J. Cosmet. Sci., 66, 307–311 (September/October 2015) 307 HARRY’S COSMETICOLOGY, 9th edition, in 3 volumes, by Meyer R. Rosen, editor- in-chief (Chemical Publishing Co., Los Angeles, CA). Price: $999.00. 2371 pp. Ralph Gordon Harry wrote his classic text, Cosmetics: Their Principles and Practices, in the 1950s. Harry, a true pioneer, recog- nized the multidisciplinary nature of cos- metic product development even then. Succeeding editions of his book (now called Harry’s Cosmeticology) have refl ected changes in the industry, scientifi c knowledge, reg- ulatory considerations, and demands of consumers. The ninth edition is a monumental un- dertaking, with multiple authors and a total of 2371 pages. The front section of each volume has a complete and detailed listing of all the chapters, even those in other volumes. In addition to hardcover books, the publisher can supply an e-book version (see http://www.chemical-publishing. com/category_s/44.htm for details). The book attempts to respond to many changes that have taken place in the world of cos- metics and is both a review of where we are and an indication of what the future may bring. The chapters are arranged in major sec- tions, called parts, to separate and orga- nize the various aspects of the subject matter. Obviously, there is some overlap, which is not necessarily a bad thing. Some of the chapters contain a glossary of terms used for the benefi t of those new to the fi eld. Here is the breakdown of the major sections: VOLUME 1 Part 1 In the Beginning (Marketing) Part 2 Regulatory Part 3 The Substrates VOLUME 2 Part 4 Ingredients Part 5 Anti-Aging VOLUME 3 Part 6 Formulating Cosmetics and Personal Care Products Part 7 Sensory Characterization Part 8 Delivery Systems Part 9 Nutricosmetics Part 10 Nanocosmetics Part 11 Testing Part 12 Sustainability and Eco-Responsibility Part 13 Cosmetic Manufacturing Part 14 Packaging Volume 1 essentially covers the market- ing, legal and biological aspects of cosmetic science. Part 1 consists of four chapters. (In Harry’s, individual chapters are also labeled as “parts” for consistency, I am following this designation.) Part 1.1, “Marketing Concepts to Em- power Technical People”, is an overview of aspects of marketing and suggests that marketing is everyone’s concern. Part 1.2, “Creating the Right Fragrance for Your Personal Care Product” provides an excel- lent review of the subject of fragrances and an in-depth discussion of many of the Book Review

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 308 important issues involved in choosing a suit- able fragrance. However, there is only a single reference making it diffi cult for the reader to obtain further information. This is followed by (a slim) Part 1.3, “Fragrance Packaging Design: A Multi-Sensory Expe- rience from Concept to Consumer” which extols the benefi ts of fragrance and calls at- tention to links with other senses. “... fra- grance transforms the moment, awakens the senses, creates indelible memories, and captivates the people in a room.” The next chapter, Part 1.4, is an intro- duction to molecular cell biology and gene analysis. Various biological markers are in- dicators of normal function (or its absence) and may be targets for active agents. It is worthwhile to be acquainted with the gen- eral principles involved and understand some of the technical terms in common use. Part 2 deals with regulatory require- ments and intellectual property (IP). Following a brief introductory chapter, Part 2.2.2, “An Overview of the Changing Regulatory Landscape in the U.S and the E.U. and how to Deal with them” is a com- prehensive review of the current state of regulations and is required reading for any- one new to global marketing or develop- ment. The references in this chapter are to web sites which make it possible to search for updated information as time goes on. Parts 2.3.1, 2.3.2, and 2.3.3 contain specifi c information on regulations in Rus- sia, Saudi Arabia, and China, respectively. They are followed by a chapter (Part 2.3.4) on global regulatory and safety issues with “nanomaterials”. The fi rst part of this chap- ter deals with defi nitions, which vary from place to place. This is a timely topic as na- noscale materials become more widely used. Chapters in other parts of the book deal with various issues involving nano- sized particles. Part 2.4 provides an overview and high- lights the importance of IP. While many IP issues may be of interest chiefl y to the legal department, everyone should be aware of them. Patents and patentability are of par- ticular importance in research and develop- ment, and the bench chemist should be on the lookout for possibilities to turn a lab breakthrough into a patented invention. Part 3, “Substrates”, is the largest sec- tion of Volume 1. The substrates include skin, hair, nails, nose (in relation to olfac- tion and fragrances), and mouth. The chapters on skin structure (Part 3.1.1) and compromised skin in the elderly (Part 3.2.4) are comprehensive, up to date, well written and thoroughly documented. They represent useful summaries of the fi eld and could profi tably be read and referred to by anyone involved with skin products. Fur- ther useful information is found in the chap- ters on global classifi cation of skin and issues with skin of certain ethnic groups. This type of information is useful even for marketers of products confi ned to the United States, which contains a sampling of all the world’s ethnic groups. The chapters on hair structure, hair ag- ing, and changes in shape are also excel- lent. They are broad in scope, thoroughly researched, and would be useful to anyone who wants to learn about hair and its phys- ical characteristics. The same can be said of the chapters on the nose and mouth. Volume 2 contains two major sections, cosmetic ingredients (Part 4) and aging (Part 5). In Part 4, some of the ingredient chapters are classifi ed by chemistry, some by function. Part 4.1.1 is a superfi cial sum- mary of surfactants and their functions. This is followed by a detailed chapter on lipstick ingredients. The physical proper- ties and cosmetic applications of hyaluronic acid are explored in Part 4.1.3. Two chap- ters that follow summarize probiotics and ingredients produced by fermentation. The chapter on multifunctional botanicals (Part 4.1.5) is an excellent review of progress that has been made in extracting, standard- izing, and applying botanicals for cosmetic purposes. The list of references at the end of this chapter is extensive and very useful.