BOOK REVIEW 309 Protection against chemical degradation and microbial growth are important consid- erations for any cosmetic product. These topics are covered in Parts 4.1.7.1 and 4.1.7.2. The chapter on antimicrobial pre- servatives discusses the preservatives avail- able, regulatory considerations, the role of water content, the presence of nutrients (for the bugs), and other issues. The chapter on antioxidants covers its topic in great detail, differentiating between primary and second- ary agents. Both of these chapters provide information that would help a formulator develop a product with adequate shelf life. The next two chapters, Parts 4.2.1 and 4.2.2, are concerned with polymers and other rheology modifi ers. These chapters are, respectively, a short introduction to the topic and a comprehensive treatise that cov- ers much of the same ground in more detail. Polymers represent a class of ingredients with many applications in cosmetic prod- ucts, so these chapters have wide practical application. They are followed by two chap- ters dealing with silicones. Part 4.2.3.1 is especially useful because of its depth and breadth. These chapters are followed by in- formative chapters on skin whitening ingre- dients and ingredients from marine sources. The next portion of Part 4 contains a group of ingredients useful for their antiag- ing properties. There is a very brief chapter on retinoids, followed by a chapter on pep- tides. Chapters on amino acids, micro RNAs, and alpha-hydroxy acids are exemplary re- views, loaded with literature references that make it possible to trace any subtopic of in- terest as far as is necessary. The fi nal chapter in the “ingredients” section discusses anti- oxidants in cosmetics for their antiaging properties. The author presents a useful over- view of the area and describes the role of oxi- dation in skin aging. He concludes that a combination of sunscreens and antioxi- dants will continue to serve as an important weapon in an antiaging regimen for the skin. Part 5 of the book is entitled “Anti- Aging Pathways”. This section consists of a dozen chapters on such topics as theories of aging, causes, treatment approaches, and potential future approaches. For someone not conversant with the literature on ag- ing, this section should be read in its en- tirety to get a feel for the ideas about aging being considered, the direction that re- search is taking, and possibilities for future antiaging approaches. While I thought all of the chapters in this group contributed to the overall goal of understanding aging, es- pecially skin aging, I was especially taken with a chapter on “Epigenetics of Skin Ag- ing”. To fully understand where this area of research is going, it is necessary to learn a new language, the language of molecular biology. Volume 3 contains Parts 6-14. Part 6 begins with a brief introductory chapter that sets out the scope of the fi eld of cosmetic formulation. The fi rst product type discussed in detail is skin lighteners. This chapter is followed by all-too-brief chapters on sunscreens and antiperspirants/ deodorants (2 pages each). The brevity of the sunscreens chapter is particularly sur- prising due to recent efforts to improve their effi cacy and the important role they play in mitigating the damaging effects of ultraviolet light on the skin. Part 6.5 is a review on acne and comedogenicity, and identifi es ingredients in makeup and other cosmetic products which may cause prob- lems, especially in women prone to follicular clogging. After chapters on masks/scrubs and shaving preparations, Part 6.8 covers color cosmetics, particularly foundations, lipsticks, and mascaras. The fi nal paragraphs of this chapter discuss additives, such as sunscreens, which may add a skin care benefi t to these beauty products. Part 6.9 begins a string of chapters on hair care. Part 6.10 goes into depth on shampoo ingredients, cleansing mechanisms, and shampoo evaluation. Several short chapters on hair styling are followed by a chapter on hair colorants and fi nally a chapter on reactive hair products. Part 6.17 contains practical

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 310 advice on product development beginning with a consideration of consumer beliefs and expectations, then moving on to marketing requirements, manufacturing requirements, considerations on handling new ingredients, shelf life, and fi nally arriving at a commercial product. The last chapter in Part 6 (Part 6.18) is a complete exposition on oral health and oral health products. It includes a description of various issues related to oral care, denti- frices, mouthrinses, and various devices use- ful in supporting good oral hygiene. Part 7 consists of a single chapter relating to sensory signals and sensory perception, a fascinating exploration of the use of a special language to describe sensory response to a product, such as a soap or shampoo. Lexicon development is illustrated, as is the applica- tion of a lexicon in specifi c examples. While measurement of sensory perception is am- biguous due to differences in perception and description, a lexicon improves uniformity of response and gives sensory evaluation a more scientifi c foundation. Part 8 is a single chapter (Part 8.1) de- voted to an overview of delivery systems, a good starting point for anyone seeking fur- ther information on this area. The review focuses on encapsulation methodologies such as liposomes and polymeric microspheres. Potential advantages include improved sta- bility, reduced irritation, and enhanced bioavailability. Part 9 consists of two chapters dealing with nutricosmetics, a term coined to de- scribe cosmetics containing nutraceutical ingredients. Part 9.1 provides a useful in- troduction to the topic, describing benefi ts and diffi culties, and several illustrative ex- amples along with an extensive bibliogra- phy. As bioavailability is an unknown factor in many cases, clinical studies are currently the best way to obtain evidence for claim substantiation. Another chapter on multifunctional botanicals (Part 9.2) overlaps and expands an earlier chapter (Part 4.1.5) by the same authors. Nanocosmetics (Part 10) is a fancy word for cosmetics that contain nano-sized par- ticles, many of which are on the market today. Chapter 10.1 describes carriers such as solid lipid nanoparticles as well as ac- tives such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Applications to skin care, hair care, makeup, emollient therapy, and antiaging are well covered. This chapter can profi t- ably be read in conjunction with Parts 2.3.4 and 8.1. Part 11, formally titled “Testing, Charac- terization and Performance Claims”, con- tains a series of defi nitive chapters which cover the subjects of skin and hair testing in depth and provide many useful details and extensive references. They are measurements of skin barrier integrity (Part 11.1), imag- ing techniques and analysis of skin (Part 11.2), skin elasticity and topography mea- surement (Part 11.3), evaluation of damage, protection and repair of hair (Part 11.4), clinical testing related to skin cosmetic claims (Part 11.5), nanomaterials character- ization (Part 11.6), and in vitro assays related to gene expression (Part 11.7). Curiously, there is no chapter in this section on physi- cal testing of cosmetic products, e.g., physi- cal stability testing. Part 12, “Sustainability and Eco- Responsibility”, is a welcome addition to the book in view of current and impending concerns about limited resources and the desire to be ecologically friendly. Triggers for these concerns include the expanding global population, the increased use of bo- tanicals and other ingredients from natural sources in cosmetic products, as well as genuine regard for the health of the planet and its people. It’s also good business. Following a brief introduction to the topic, Part 12.1 addresses the interaction between sustainability and product devel- opment. Parts 12.2–12.4 are concerned with sustainability of plant communities used as sources of cosmetic ingredients. The benefi ts of cell cultures as a source of ingre- dients are laid out in Part 12.5. By setting