BOOK REVIEW 311 defi ned conditions under which cultures are grown, yield and characteristics are con- trolled. This results in reliable, standard- ized, sustainable output with little impact on the environment or indigenous people. Part 12.6 discusses plant extraction, begin- ning with traditional methods and describes steps that may be taken to improve the pro- cess to make it more ecofriendly. The manufacture of cosmetics is de- scribed in detail in Part 13. Part 13.1 takes a comprehensive “unit operations” approach describing processes required in manufac- ture. Starting with mixing, the processes involved in producing solutions, emulsions, suspensions, and dry mixtures are laid out. There are also sections on scale-up and fi ll- ing (during packaging). Part 13.2 makes the case for cold-process emulsifi cation to produce submicron particles, in place of tra- ditional emulsifi cation methods. Such methodology would result in energy cost savings. Other benefi ts claimed are better uniformity between batches, fewer formula- tion problems, and increased potency of ac- tives. However, the chapter lacks examples that illustrate these benefi ts. Part 13.3 is yet another chapter dealing with extracts from natural ingredients. Some sources are reviewed and various extraction techniques are described along with a discus- sion of the effi ciency of each technique. Part 14 is concerned with packaging. Part 14.1 is a very informative discussion of sustainability related to packaging and the many factors that require consider- ation. These include the ability to recycle and reuse the packaging material. But the performance of the package in its intended role is also important and must be balanced against what happens after usage when op- timizing the packaging decision. The fi nal chapter in the book, Part 14.2, “Aerosol Containment and Delivery” out- lines the current state of the art. After an introductory section, there is a description of various aerosol types, containers, valves, actuators, propellants, and fi lling methods. There is also a section containing advice on formulation. Many cosmetic companies subcontract aerosol products to specialized labs expert in handling aerosols to do their formulation and manufacturing. The editors and authors of this edition of Harry’s took on a gargantuan task and suc- ceeded for the most part. Most of the chap- ters are top notch reviews of their subject matter and the book has a forward-looking approach, bringing in topics such as sustain- ability and aspects of molecular biology and epigenetics. I have indicated the few in- stances where I feel the book falls short. Harry’s provides an overview of the entire cosmetics industry as well as a great deal of detailed information on its component sec- tors. It would be useful to anyone starting to work on cosmetics and would benefi t experi- enced people who want to get up to date on recent developments. It should be in the li- brary of every cosmetic company and school which has a cosmetic science program. Harry’s would perhaps be most useful to many in the industry as a reference source, allowing the reader to pick and choose topics of immediate interest. Un- fortunately, the lack of an index in the print edition makes this diffi cult since more than one chapter might have to be consulted to get information on a particular ingredient, technology, or type of cosmetic. The e-book version may have an advantage in this regard. I have not examined the e-book but I assume it is searchable.— JOEL ZATZ—Rutgers University.
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