LABORATORY METHODS FOR PRODUCT TESTING 103 been observed at as low as 140 ø in thermal conductivity cells with a plat- inum wire. The phenomenon may be observed through the appearance of negative peaks. In any case it is wise to test a reference sample under the same conditions befbre questioning the purity of a product on the basis of gas chromatog- raphy. LABORATORY METHODS FOR PRODUCT TESTING* By DONAI. D H. PowEP, S Lambert-Hudnut Division, F//arner-Lambert Pharmaceutical Company, Morris Plains, N. •. PERHAPS THE greatest need for the cosmetic industry and certainly the greatest need of the cosmetic chemist is for accurate methods for evalu- ating cosmetic products. A recent advertisement for a new cosmetic prod- uct certainly cost at least $75,000 for the single advertisement and yet nowhere in that ad was there any clear indication or measure of what man- ner and to what extent the product performed. In the defense of the adver- tising agencies we must point out that they have turned to glamor and indefinite, vague promises of beauty only when the chemists could give them no accurate data and information on performance. LABORATORY TEST METHODS IN OTHER SOCIETIES The importance of laboratory test methods in the role of a chemist is best demonstrated by reviewing the latest Yearbook of The Textile Chem- ists. In the latest issue you will find that they have developed or are cur- rently working on 83 different and distinct laboratory methods for evaluat- ing textile fibers and fabrics. This number is growing each year and hun- dreds of chemists are cooperatively working on them. I am sure you are all acquainted with the excellent publications of the American Society for Testing Materials whose entire object is to establish reliably accurate methods for testing all types of materials from steel to cork and from soap chips to lubricating oils. At some future date we should work with A.S.T.M., but we must, first, outline, indicate and study the basically important prob- lems. The justly famous Marburg lectures of A.S.T.M. are classics in reviewing the progress and problems in evaluating and testing products from con- crete to plaster. It is still years ahead before such a review should be con- sidered in the cosmetic industry. * Presented at the September 19, 1957, Seminar, Chicago, Ill.

104 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS WHAT PROPERTIES SHOULD BE TESTED IN A HAND LOTION? It is a real challenge to all cosmetic chemists to set up accurate yard- sticks a, nd to find out what properties and qualities make successful, accept- able cosmetics. There is no question that any clear evaluation of cosmetic products depends first on the cosmetic chemist finding just what these prop- erties are. The evaluation of a simple hand lotion offers a real challenge to the cosmetic chemist. What do you measure in a good hand lotion? What does it do? Why is it preferred? What does the customer think she wants from a hand lotion? What does she actually get? How much skin penetration does a lotion give? How does it change the skin? These are only a few of the questions that must arise in attempting to evaluate a single, simple hand lotion. Then the chemist must work out such tests as are reproducible, which can be accurately completed in the laboratory and rechecked in another laboratory. Is ADVERTISING MORE IMPORTANT? Perhaps the most discouraging part of product evaluation is that a competitor with a more colorful, more strongly worded or more daring adver- tising claim can and does outsell your excellent product with his inferior unstable merchandise. The question is frequently raised as to whether performance really counts. It is suggested that until the chemists do have accurate methods for product performance that new cosmetics will continue to be promoted by strong advertising puffery because there is no other means of evaluating them. STILL A NEED TO WORK ANONYMOUSLY For the past year members of this Committee have been wrestling with many of the questions just discussed. It is my belief that they have made tremendous progress and you will hear from them individually. One of their major problems is still the need for active interest and support from more cosmetic chemists. They still encounter a great many cases where the chemist feels that he is divulging special secrets when he is actually reviewing problems widely known and recognized by all technical members of the industry. In recognizing the need for keeping suggestions confiden- tial, they are planning to indicate the criticisms and comments of many chemists without disclosing their names. NEED VOR MORE TEST METHODS While we are discussing five or six test methods today, we should be working on ten or twelve. We need the help, suggestions and support of all of the members. Your suggestions and indications of willingness to cooperate would be greatly appreciated.