FRAGRANCE IN TIlE NATURAL ORDERS 211 English and Foreign names of the wild and cultivated, temperate and tropical, native and foreign plants, climbers, shrubs and trees. A new type of literature has arisen within the last decade concerned with the plants which we grow in our gardens, where and when first found and the men and women enthusiasts who gave them to us. There is A. W. Ander- son's The Coming of the Flowers (1952), G. H. Browning's The Naming of Wild Flowers (1952), Mrs. D. Eastwood's Mirror of Flowers (1953), and the Rev. A. Young's Prospect (1945) and Retrospect (1950) of Flowers, all of which contribute their quota of impressions on the wild and cultivated, native and tropical flower scents. BOTANICAL SURVEY in the preliminary survey, working from a North European Field botany text, I found it also necessary to consult those dealing with North America not only were there Natural Orders not common to both, but in those that were, i found that genera and species showed considerable variation. THE SCENTED-GARDEN BOOKS Chronologically, I find the following: In 1843 there appeared a small primer of some 130 pages, bearing the title of Flora Odorata, by Frederick T. Mott. This comprises an alphabetical listing of some 180 shrubs, climbers and herbaceous plants, gathered together because, in the opinion of the author, "The want of such a collection had long been felt by the lovers of Horticulture"--but little guidance is afforded upon the actual types of fragrance to be encountered. In 1885, Donald McDonald considerably enlarged upon this text under the title of Fragrant Flowers and Leaves. This embraced some 800 entries, but only in the case of 250 Floral and 35 Folial items was there precise information regarding the nature of the fragrance. incidentally, there was no sectorizing into Natural Orders. In 1893, an Austrian botanist, Count Kerner yon Mari!aun, devoted many pages in his 4-volume text on Botany to describing the fragrance of a large number of the lesser-known scented blossoms in terms of the odours of the common garden flowers and the then available essential oils. The next important contribution is to be found in the Proceedings of the Royal Horticultural Society for 1898-1899, which contained a paper, interpolated with fragrant listings, by F. W. Burbidge, at that time Curator of the Dublin Botanical Gardens. This article formed the basis for his Book of the Scented Garden (1905). Not only does this text provide us with an alphabetical list of 220 perfumes, essential oils and so on, naming the plants which afford them, but in a list of some 70 items, covering 374 B.c. to 1901, he details the sources of books and notes on perfumery, and as an after-

212 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS thought contributes a special bibliography of authorities who have written upon the Chemistry of Odours. Gardens of Fragrance, was the title of a book by T. G. W. Henslow (1920), while in 1925 there appeared a small volume which I think may be justly regarded as the first primer upon what may perhaps be termed "Floral Osmics," entitled The Scent of Floze'ers and Leaves, by F. A. Hampton. This contains much information regarding the sinfilarities of odours of plants belonging to different families, chemical groupings of odours, a useful range of scented plants for the garden and an historical bibliography of 30 little- known sources of information, and an extension of sundry ideas first suggested by von Marilaun. In 1926, there appeared several brochures by Mrs. M. Grieve, an authority upon herbs and herb gardens these deal with Fragrant Flowers, Scented Plants and Grasses, and in my opinion, contain more precise information upon the types of odour to be found in a carefully planned "Garden of Fragrance." In 1931 there appeared Miss Rohde's The Scented Garden, the fifth revised and enlarged edition appearing as recently as 1948. Apart from fragrance comments i• the preliminary narrative, she lists upwards of 250 herbaceous plants, climbers, shrubs and trees, bulbs and rhizomes which have a scented proclivity and describes their fragrance in detail. About the same time (1932), there was published in New York The Fragrant Path, by Mrs. L. B. Wilder. This is undoubtedly the source-book for this study of natural fragrance, for the author does not confine her remarks to the denizens of North A•nerica. A particularly useful list of Scented Shrubs suitable for English gardens is to be found in Flowering and Ornamental Shrubs, by S. Weaver (1951), while the Journal of the Royal Horticultural Society (March 1953) contains a detailed account of floral scent types by E. A. Boxvies on Fragrance in the Garden. This same title was selected by Norman Taylor (New York, 1953) for a book which is described as an accurate key to the use of plant matehal to secure almost any desired fragrance in American gardens. This book follows Hampton's treatment as based upon yon Marilaun's work so that we again find reference to (1) The Aminoid or Hawthorn Group, (2) The Heavy or Jasmin type, (3) The Aromatic or Clove-pink sector, (4) The Floral or Rose division, and (5) the Citrus and Verbena scents--an elementary, but highly useful segregation in the initial study of floral odours. In 1955 I was agreeably surprised to read a review of Perfume in the Garden, by R. Genders. The scope of this work can be seen from the following Chapter headings: (2) A Garden of Fragrance, (3) Evening perfumes, (10) Perfume in Tulips, (13) Scented Carpeting Plants and (18) Fragrant