FRAGRANCE IN THE NATURAL ORDERS 217 that among the 200 genera and upwards of 1,200 species there are no heavily- scented Orientals. (5) The Mallows: These may be epitomised by Malva moschata and regarded as the prototype of the widely-spread 'vegetal musks' of other Orders, but among the 50 genera and some 1,000 species, there are numerous examples of the musky-honey complexes which characterise the South Seas Island hibiscus. (6) The Lindens: The peculiar clary-sage-ylang-lilac fragrance-pattern of the lime-tree blossoms may be easily recognized in the redolence of many tropical hot-house flowers, while a study of the items which constitute the 40 genera and 350 species of this Order will undoubtedly lead to some unique impressions of tropical forest exotics. (7) The Rosaceae: In addition to the roses proper, this Order presents some 100 genera and upwards of 2,000 species, here we have practically all the blossoming fruit trees, the nuances of which I find are all variations upon an almond-hawthorn-vanilla-heliotrope theme. In the background we have many wild and cultivated meadow-sweets and there are also the warm herbaceous redolences of the Burnets, Alchemillas, Agrimonias and Avens whicl• I regard as affording the prototypes of pure rustic fragrance. (8) The willow-herbs: This is an example of an opportunity for exploring an Order, namely the Onagraceae (literally the donkey-fodder Family), which consists chiefly of 'weeds,' of which the common pink-blossomed willow-herb is the most familiar, but this Family embraces the cultivated garden evening primrose, and other night-flowering plants, which with their subtle ethereal nocturnal fragrances, are a challenge to the perfumer to emulate these elusive nuances among the 20 genera and 1,500 species. (9) The Oleaceae: The olive family claims a modest 25 genera and about 500 species, of which the most important is j asmin. This fragrance alone, or in liaison with lily or neroli are the master fragrance-patterns of the Order, and are probably seen to best advantage in Olea fragrans, the sweet-scented chinese olive, or in the Japanese Osmanthus fragrans, while other interesting osmical variations upon this theme are to be found among the Ligustrums (the scented privets), the Forsythias and the Chionanthus or fringe-trees of California, but I would particularly direct the attention of the perfumer to the many varietal nuances to be found among the upwards of 80 species, occidental and oriental of the sweet-flowering ash. (10) The Capr(foliaceae: This goat-fodder Order is more familiar as the honeysuckle or woodbine family, numerically small, but unique, for the 14 genera comprising it are all fragrant. A discussion, however, of the upwards of 300 species would constitute quite a lengthy monograph as there is a considerable variation in the fragrances of the 40 most important species of the garden honeysuckles. I regard the fragrance-pattern to be a change-

218 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS ringing upon a j asmin-tubcrose-neroli theme. In another sector, fhe Viburnums, A belias and Diervilleas in particular, will well-repay the attention of the perfumer seeking new initial notes, and he should spare an after- thought upon the peculiar scent of sundry species of Sambucus, the common black, and the sweet-scented Canadian elders. (11) The Ericaceae: This is the mountain-heather Family, of 60 genera and upwards of 1,100 species, offering the perfumer a wide amplitude of nuances, varying from the warm, honied-aromatic balsamic scents of the humble heathers, to the overwhelmingly sickly odours of the tropical azalea and rhododendron forests which in the Himalayas cover hundreds of square miles. There are also the Oxydendrons and the Calunnas with sweet lily'of the valley-like scents, as well as the Ledums and Gaultherias with their respectively rosemary and wintergreen redolences. (12) The Rubiaceae: This is another example of an unfamiliar Order, for the wild red madder family is surprising in magnitude, accommodating some 400 genera, and upwards of 4,500 species. There are two important sub-groups housing the coffee plants and the quinine-producing Cinchonas, which are too extensive to epitomise here, but it may be remarked that the blossoms of the denizens therein are peculiar inasmuch as they offer a strange nuance which I have not located elsewhere, namely, a distinctly 'bitter' scent. In brief, this robust Order offers initially the humble Galiums, these are the hay-scented bed-straws and the coumarin-scented Asperulas and there is then a swift transverse to the flamboyantly-odoured Gardenias, Bouvar- dias, Rondeletias and the indigenous West African Karo-karoundes. Osmic- ally, the scents of all these follow the Caprifolian pattern being permutations upon a jasmin-tuberose-neroli theme, but as an alternative, from the South Seas islands comes the lavish display of truly exotic tropical fragrances of which the amber-scented Nelitris is typical. (13) The Borages: Virtually, another family of 'weeds,' yet our familiar common scentless blue-flowered borage gives its name to an Order comprising some 90 genera and more than 1,600 species. These upon investigation pre- sent cultivated plants, and present in the front line the genus Heliotrope, while strong almond-hawthorn nuances are found among the West Indian Macromerias and the North American Onosmas, as well as a host of aromatic- leaved garden plants of the Anchusa type. (14) The Solanums: This is the baneful nightshade family, its 75 genera being supported by some 2,000 species. A scrutiny affords some very inter- esting items, ranging from the night-scented tobacco flowers, to the aromatic nuances of the Brunsfelsias and Physalis and to the musky-vanilla redolences of the Cestrums and the Solandras, while some of the Daturas have a very