FRAGRANCE IN THE NATURAL ORDERS 219 sickly lily-like odour and there is also a background of the pungent Capsicums and Paprikas. (15) The Scrophularias: These anti-scurvy herbs belong to the figwort and snapdragon family which include the foxgloves. This is a recondite Order which takes some time to plod through, some 200 genera and attendant 2,000 species, deleting the herbal elements until something of a scented proclivity manifests itself. Even so, very unfamiliar names at last appear, chiefly garden plants such as the Chelones, Brownwallias, Linarias and Verbascums. These partake of the only fragrance-pattern I have been able to elucidate, namely the night-scented clove-pink redolence of the Nycterinas and Lyperias. (17) The Verbenas: This Order houses some 75 genera and over 1,300 species, and althougt• the Verveines, the Verbenas proper are the prototypes of the many Citriodoras, quite a number of variation s upon a citral-citrortellal- borneol-cineol theme are to be found among the many species of the Lantanas, Lippias and Clerodendrons (16) The Bignoniaceae: This Order is reported as furnishing the most gorgeous flowers in the world and favouring the tropical forests of both henrispheres. Of the 60 genera and some 500 species of these 'trumpet- flowers' some are delightfully perfumed, while others are lacking in this respect. All that cart be said for the Order osmically is that some of the Bougainvilleas with their dazzling masses of purple and scarlet blossoms are reported to have a strong scent suggestive of a mixture of cloves and oranges. (18) The Primulas: The prirnroses are not an extensive Family muster- ing but 25 genera and perhaps 750 species. Although there is some suggestion of a lily-like or cyclamen nuance among the wild and cultivated European primulas and the American cowslips, in the build-up of the fragrance we receive a useful hint from the Asiatic species, Primula anisodora. For upon a closer examination the position of anisic aldehyde and aubepine is very evident in the make-up of the basic primula fragrance, nuanced by a complex acetophenone derivative, briefly known as peony ketone. (19) The Protaceae: Named from the Latin proteus, meaning the varied character of the Family, this calls for a brief mention. This is one of a number of Natural Orders which are endemic to S. Africa and Australasia, some 30 genera being supported by well over 600 species of plants with strange-looking blossoms, resembling cones, bottle-brushes, rat's tails, bird's nests and other quaint forms. I would regard the Banksias, Mangletias and the Hakeas as sharing the fragrance of a somewhat strong, coarse basic honeysuckle, but as is evinced by the genus Stirlingia, the Order can offer some interesting surprises, for the oil distilled from Stirlingia latifolia consists almost entirely of acetophenone. (20) The Oleasters : This Order can offer but 3 genera and about 30

220 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS species, but in my opinion, the perfumer who can manage time to study the unique fragrance of these tiny-blossomed wild olives, will, I think, be amply rewarded. (21) The Euphorbias: This latex-bearing Order is of the sixth magnitude, and among the 250 genera and upwards of 4,000 species, the perfumer will encounter many surprises, ranging from the giant cactus-like plants of the Arizona desert, plants with vividly coloured leaves masquerading as flowers, as of the Poinsettias, balsanfic folial exudations and •nany interesting fragrant barks of the cascarilla type. (22) The Rutaceae: Oddly enough, the solitary herbal rue bestows its name upon this Order which also takes a considerable time to explore with its 110 genera and over 1,000 species. Most of these are remarkable for the glandular cells abounding in the leaves, flowers and fruits, which on bruising emit strongly smelling and bitter tasting juices. This Order houses all the important citrus plants, as well as the aromatic Buchus and A maryis and also many pure floral redolences of the neroli type. (23) The A maryllidaceae .' Standing midway between the lilies and the iris this Order is outstanding for the beauty of form, colour and sweet perfumes of its blossoms. Unique, inasmuch as over half the 70 genera and concomitant 1,000 species are fragrant, while the Order houses the snowdrops, tuberoses, daffodils and spider-lilies, to name some of the most familiar, while I find the basic fragrance pattern centres upon many permuta- tions of a muguet-hyacinth-violet-vanilla theme. (24) The Violaceae .' Including the pansies, this is a small Order com- prising some 15 genera and perhaps 300 species and although with a few exceptions, as for instance the Australian Boronias and certain irises, ionone or its methyl derivative do not appear to be found in nature, yet oddly enough, a pronounced violet-like fragrance can be located in at least a dozen other Natural Orders. CONCLUSION In conclusion, I would rernark that this abbreviated record is an arbitrary, but I think, interesting, selection frorn work done upon 100 of the more important Natural Orders. It must, however, be regarded as a summary which can ordy serve to introduce the search for Fragrance in the Natural Orders, and in the course of time, it is my hope and intention to complete the survey, and to conclude, I may perhaps slightly amend the 71st Quatrain of Fitzgerald's "Omar Khayyam," ". . . I often wonder what the Perfumers buy One-half so precious as the Goods they sell." IReceived ß 15th February 1960!