SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS OF GREAT BRITAIN 51 Diploma Examination BRUNEL COLLEGE PAPER I (Monday, loth June 1963) Candidates should answer FIVE questions only THREE questions from Section A, and TWO questions from Section B. Candidates should com- mence each question on a separate sheet of paper. Where possible (i) express reactions by equations, (ii) give simple sketches of apparatus used, and (iii) full explanation of symbols and equations should be given. Atomic weights: H = 1, C = 12, N • 14, O • 16, S: 32, K: 39. SECTXON A 1. Briefly describe the changes which occur in the structure of keratin during the process of permanent waving of human hair. 2 ml of an ammonia thioglycolate solution (density 0.953) require, (a) 20.1 ml N/10 HC1, and (b) 17.2 ml N/10 KIOa for complete neutrahzation. Calculate the amount of ammonia and thioglycolate in the waving lotion. 2. What properties should the ideal hair colourant possess ? Define and describe the properties of, (a) temporary hair colourants (b) semi-permanent hair colourants (c) permanent hair colourants. 3. Describe the HLB system of emulsifier classification. The saponification value of a sample of glycery! monostearate was found to be 169. An alcoholic solution of 0.682 g of the stearic acid from which it was prepared was neutralized to phenolphthalein by 25-20 ml N/10 aqueous potassium hydroxide. Ca!culate the HLB value of the glyceryl monostearate. What can you deduce about the solubility in water and the emulsifying properties of g!yceryl monostearate ? 4. Discuss the functional requirements of a hair dressing for men and describe the various product types which have been used, giving an indication of their relative merits.

52 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS 5. Write short notes on THREE of the following: (a) Extensometer tests on human hair. (b) The nature and effect of chromophoric and auxochr0mic groups in organic molecules. (c) Nonionic surface active agents. (d) Mechanisms involved in detergency. SECTION B 1. Describe and comment briefly on the differences between formulation in a laboratory, and the production of the product in a factory. Indicate the ways in which a semi-scale plant would help bridge these differences, with particular reference to the factors which should be examined in the production of a thick emulsion which requires to be heated during the process. 2. Describe any initial screening tests you would carry out on the materials, the long term tests you would subject the packs to, and any other tests you would do in choosing a suitable package for any TWO of the following. Include in your answer any special defects you would look for: (a) An alcoholic after-shave lotion in a plastic bottle. (b) A cleansing cream in a collapsible tube. (c) A liquid shampoo in a sachet. (d) Bath salts in a bag or pouch of some sort. 3. Describe how a pressure pack works with particular reference to "aerosol" hair sprays. Indicate in general terms the composition of such products, and describe the testing necessary to check that the particular pack chosen is a suitable one. PAPER II (Wednesday, 12th June 1965) Candidates should answer FIVE questions only. answer more than three questions from any one section. commence each question on a separate sheet of paper. Do not attempt to Candidates should SECTION A 1. Describe and discuss the factors you would consider in selecting an effective preservative for an emulsion.