596 JOURNAL OF TIlE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS .Society of Cosmetic Chemists Literature Award to D K j'Ad h' r. en 1 ac 1 The 1972 Cosmetic Chemists Literature Award was presented to Dr. Kcnji Adachi of the University of Miami at the annual meeting held in New York City. Formal presentation was made to Dr. Adachi by Dr. Martin Rieger, the 1972 President of the Society, during the luncheon ceremonies on December 12th. The award consists of a scroll and an honorarium of $1,500. Eulogist for Dr. Adachi was Dr. Bernard Idson of Hoffman-La Roche Inc. Dr. Adachi was honored for his pioneering work in elucidating the enzymatic processes un- derlying the metabolism of skin, sebaceous glands, and hair follicles. Left to right: Society President Martin M. Rieger, Literature Award recipient Kenji Adachi, Mrs. Kenji Adachi, and Eulogist Bernard Idson

I. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 24, 197-212 (March 2, 1973) Water and the Skin BERNARD IDSON, Ph.D.* Presented in part April 5, 1972, be[ore the New York Chapter, Cli[ton, N.J. Synopsis-Problems of dry SKIN are those of inadequate hydration of the stratum comeurn. WATER is continually diffusing outward from sweat glands and transepidermal diffusion as long as the relative hmnidity remains-less than 100%. HYDRATION dra- matically increases the permeability of the skin. Yet, even the hydrated stratum comeurn is an effective BARRIER against water loss. Diseased skin is more permeable to water loss. The whole stratum corncure is probably the principal skin barrier to water. Agents that increase the permeability of the skin, such as DMSO or surfactants, damage or alter the nature of the stratum corneum reducing the diffusional resistance. Diffusion through the stratum corncure is passive, influenced chiefly by the water vapor pressure gradient. Much of the water-binding capacity of the corncure is due to the presence of hygroscopic water-soluble substances, which appear to be protected by lipid material which must be removed with solvents before they can be extracted by water. The osmotic properties of the horny layer suggest there is a semipermeable membrance system which prevents the water-soluble substances from being washed out when the comeurn is immersed in water but does not prevent the hygroscopic substances from holding water in humid atmospheres. The membrance system may be the CORNEUM CELL WALL. INTRODUCTION Water plays a unique role in the dry skin condition. The lack of adequate water in the upper layer of the skin, the stratum comeurn, results in dry and chapped skin (1-3). A level of between 10 and 20% water is needed to main- tain normal softness and pliability of the skin (1, 2). The normal supple ap- pearance of skin is due in large part to the capacity of the horny layer to bind water. The skin presents a formidable "barrier" to water loss and this is prob- ably due to the whole stratum corneum. When the relative humidity is low, the amount of water diffusing into the stratum comeurn from the underlying tissues is insufficient to replace the water lost to the atmosphere and chapped skin results (4, 5). The water de- ficiency in the cornified epithelium can only be remedied by restoring the normal water content (2, 6). Fats and other oily materials do not aid this dry •Hoffrnann-La Roche Inc., Nutley, N.J. 07110. 197