J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 26 65-74 (1975) ¸ 1975 Society of Cosmetic Chetnists of Great Britain Implications of the enlarged European Economic Community on the quality and safety of' cosmetics and toiletries D. M. GABRIEL* Presented on 29th August 1974 in London at the IFSCC VIIIth International Congress on 'Cosmetics--Quality and Safety' organized by the Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Great Britain. Synopsis--Prior to the enlargement of the EEC in January 1973, when Britain, Denmark and Ireland joined, there was already some activity relating to the Cosmetic and Toiletry Industry. A proposal for a 'Directive on the Approximation of the LAWS of Member States relating to Cosmetic Products', based on a negative, a restricted and a provisional list was being prepared. A Technical Study Group of Government experts had been formed to draw up the lists and a group of analysts assembled to recommend analytical methods to monitor the materials in the restricted and provisional lists. UK Government and Industrial representatives were included in these Groups and in addition a Microbiological group has been set up. Several amendments to the draft Directive have been suggested and it is not likely to become law until 1975. There is a strong move by most member states towards a POSITIVE LIST but this could not be implemented for at least 5 years because of the immense difficulties which will have to be overcome. In any case, the implications are that all companies manufacturing goods which come within the scope of the Directlye will have to ensure that all their products offered for sale conform to the legislation. Details of the various lists and the proposed reference methods of analysis and control together with their implementation will be discussed. In Britain, we have now become accustomed to the fact that we belong to the EEC but the implications as they relate to this industry are not always appreciated. * Unilever Research, Isleworth Laboratory, 455 London Road, Isleworth, Middlesex TW7 5A B 65

66 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS At the beginning of 1973 when Britain, Denmark and Ireland joined the Community there was already under consideration a proposal for a Directive on the Approximation of the Laws of Member States relating to Cosmetic Products. To simplify this title it will be referred to as the Cosmetics Directive. It is, however, of interest to note the exact wording of the full title which in e•ct means harmonization of existing legislation in the various states and not the creation of new laws. Before entry, Britain had no specific legislation relating to cosmetics, but there were restrictions and recommendations, particularly in respect of hormones and certain therapeutic products, included in the 1968 Medicines Act and the 1972 Poisons Act. None of the other members had legislative control either, but some had 'negative lists' of substances which were forbidden in all products offered for general sale. The draft Directive had taken some years to prepare. The responsible Commissioner was Mr A. Spinelli of Italy, and the preparation of the Direc- tive came under the Directorate General for Industrial, Technological and Scientific Affairs. In the early part of 1973, just after the enlargement of the EEC, responsibility was transferred to another Directorate General, namely The Internal Market and Harmonization of Legislation under the control of Mr F. O. Gundelach of Denmark. At the end of 1972 the Draft Directlye was submitted to the Council of Ministers, also to the Economic and Social Committee and the European Parliament for comment. Recommendations and resolutions from the latter two bodies have been received and are being considered with the main Directive by the Council of Ministers. It will then be rediscussed by Govern- ment experts and finally by the permanent representatives from the Member States. When the Directive is evenually agreed it will be binding but dis- cretion is left to the' National Authorities. The contents of the draft Cosmetics Directive are appended in an abridged form. They include 15 articles embracing the scope of the proposal and the following Annexes. Annex I--list of products regarded as cosmetics. Annex I[--a 'negative list' of 425 substances that must not be used. Annex III--a 'restricted list' of substances. Annex IV--a 'provisional list' of substances. Annex V--a list of substances excluded from the Directive (only hormones and selenium disulphide are included at present).