TOPICAL MOISTURIZERS 85 moisturizers, water, and no treatment were too limited to reveal any pronounced pat- tern of effect by facial area. Water had scattered significance against no treatment for the two most responsive areas on individual study days (Wilcoxon matched-pairs signed-ranks test). Comparison of the moisturizers against water was made possible with the Friedman two-way analysis of variance by ranks. Moisturizers MF and L had no significant effects against water moisturizer ML produced occasional significance (P 0.05) at 3- or 6-hr intervals moisturizer O was always significant (P 0.01) at the eye and cheek/mouth areas at 3 and 6 hr on Days 1, 2, and 3, with frequent significance (P 0.05 or better) against water at 10 hr. Figure 2 depicts the progression through time for the most responsive facial area. As with the other areas, the peak effects recorded were at 3 hr. They continued with rela- tively little decrease by 6 hr, and gradually declined thereafter. Results by full half-face. The average reductions for the full half-face represent not only the summation of the trained judges' observations, but they also represent overall ef- fect across all four facial areas. Table VI shows these results. Water had scattered significance against .no treatment on individual treatment days moisturizers MF and L had none against water. Moisturizer ML was occasionally significant (P 0.05) against water (at 3 hr on Days 1, 2, and 3, at 6 hr on Day 3). Moisturizer O was always significant (P 0.01) against water at 3 and 6 hr on all treat- ment days, and usually at 10 hr (P 0.01 on Day 1 and P 0.05 on Day 2). OUJ •,Z o lo 20- 30- 4o o NO TREATMENT LOTION ATER...-- -,-"• MOISTURE FILM MF •L M tlZER o I I i 3 6 10 HOURS AFTER APPLICATION Figure 2. Per cent reduction in superficial facial lines for the eye area. Average values for three days of ap- plication, 20 subjects

86 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Table VI % Reduction in SFL's by Full Half-Face Average of 3 Days Moisturizers Time after No Application 0 ML MF L Water Treatment 3hr 22 13 7 5 5 2 6 hr 20 11 6 4 4 2 10 hr 5 3 1 0 1 1 Figure 3 shows that overall, as with individual areas, each comparison agent displayed a similar progression through time, even though the extent of any one agent's results dif- fered from those of other treatments. DISCUSSION Our goal was to develop direct visual assessment of moisturizer effect on superficial facial lines into a quantitative and methodologically objective technique. The present study with its five series, six comparison treatments, annd four component areas of the face to be evaluated was necessarily a somewhat complex one. However, this com- plexity permitted the comprehensive test of reproducibility and sensitivity required for a new method of evaluation. A satisfactory level of reproducibility was ascertained through three kinds of tests in the usual static situation of baseline values (by facial area and full half-face, by series, by observer), and through the more rigorous test of seeking comparable patterns in a dy- namic situation (i.e., comparability of the changes produced by the same agent in four separate series). 10 2O 30 0 NO TREATMENT LOTION N!01 LM MF ,TION •L M I I .... I 3 6 10 HOURS AFTER APPLICATION Figure 3. Per cent reduction in superficial facial lines for the full half-face. Average values for three days of application, 20 subjects