328 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS -CH(OCH2CH3)2), 1.85 (d, J = 6.0 Hz, 2H, -CH2 -CH=CH), 3.54 3.65 (2q, J = 7.1 Hz, 4H, -CH(OCH2CH3)2) , 4.53 (t, J = 6.5 Hz, 1H, -CH 2 -CH(O-)2), 5.00- 5.75 (m, 2H, -CH=CH-) IR (cm-•): 1660(w), 1128(s), 1064(s), 976(s) Anal. Calcd -- -- for C•5H3oO2: C, 74.32 H, 12.48. Found: C, 74.25 H, 12.35. 16a: Yield: 82% b.p. 65øC/3.5 mmHg ni •ø -- 1.4382 •H NMR (8, ppm): -0.003 (s, 9H, -Si(CH3)3), 0.99 (d, J = 6.6 Hz, 3H, -CH(CH•)-), 1.41 (d, J = 6.8 Hz, 2H, Si-CH•-CH=), 3.30 3.32 (2s, 6H, -CH(OCH•)•), 4.41 (t, J = 5.9 Hz, 1H, -CH• -CH(OCH3)2), 5.13-5.5 1 (m, 2H, -CH = CH-) IR (cm- •): 1248(s), 1128(s), 1056(s), -- 968(s), 848(s) Anal. Calcd for C•2H26SiO2: C, 62.55 H, 11.37 Si, 12.19. Found: C, 62.73 H, 11.31 Si, 12.31. 16b: Yield: 85% b.p. 76øC/3.5 mmHg nil o = 1.4381 •H NMR (8, ppm): 0.003 (s, 9H, -Si(CH3)3), 0.99 (d, J = 6.6 Hz, 3H, -CH(CH3)-), 1.22 (t, J = 7.1 Hz, 6H, -CH(OCH2CH3)2), 1.41 (d, J = 6.8 Hz, 2H, Si-CH2-CH=) , 3.55 3.59 (2q, J = 7.1 Hz, 4H, -CH(OCH2CH3)2), 4.54 (t, J = 5.9 Hz, 1H, -CH• -CH(O-)2), 5.14- 5.42 (m, 2H, -CH = CH-) IR (cm- 1): 1248 (s), 1128(s), 1064(s), 968(s•, 848(s) Anal. __ -- Calcd for C•4H3oSiO2: C, 65.05 H, 11.70 Si, 10.87. Found: C, 65.12, H, 11.64 Si, 11.03. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This work was supported by the State Committee for Scientific Research (KBN), Grant No. S3020806. We express our thanks to Prof. J. G6ra for help in the odor evaluation of our compounds and to Mrs A. Puchata for synthesis of derivatives of 3,7,7-trimethyl- 4-octen- 1-ol. REFERENCES (1) E. T. Theimer, Ed., Fragrance Chemistry (Academic Press, New York, London, Tokyo, Toronto, 1982). (2) C. Wawrzeficzyk, A. Zab•a, and J. G6ra, Syntheses and odor characteristics of some homologs of acyclic terpenoids, Perfum. Flavor,st, 8, 39-47 (1988). (3) C. Wawrzeficzyk, R. Obara, and J. G6ra, Odor analysis of (E)- and (Z)- 3,7-dimethyl-4-octen- 1-ols and their derivatives, Perilira. Flavorist, 18, 29-32 (1993). (4) R. Munstedt and U. Wannagat, Sila-Riechstoffe und Riechstoffe-Isostere, Ein neuer Weg zu Sila-b- Jonon, Monatsh. 116, 693-700 (1985). (5) R. Munstedt and U. Wannagat, a-Formylpropenylsilane als Modellsubstanzen fur Sila-b-cyclocitral, Liebigs Ann. Chem., 944-949 (1985). (6) U. Wannagat, R. Munstedt, and U. Horder, Sila-b-Jonon und verwandte Verbindungen, ibid, 950-958 (1985). (7) J. G6ra, Organosilicon Fragrances, Perfum. Flavorist, 10, 21-25 (1985). (8) W. S. Johnson, L. Wertemann, W. R. Bartlett, T. J. Brockson, T. T. Li, D.J. Faulkner, and M. R. Peterson, A simple stereoselective version of the Claisen rearrangement leading to trans- trisubstituted olefinic bonds: Synthesis of squalene, J. Am. Chem. Soc., 92, 741-743 (1970). (9) F.J. Corey and J. W. Suggs, Pyridinium chlorochromate: An efficient reagent for oxidation of primary and secondary alcohols to carbonyl compounds, Tetrahedron Letters, 2647-2650 (1975). (10) R. Ratcliff and R. Rodehorst, Improved procedure for oxidation with the chromium trioxide-pyridine complex, J. Org. Chem., 35, 4000 (1970). (11) R. T. Taylor and J. G. Galloway, Addition of trimethylsilylmethylmagnesium chloride to or, [3-un- saturated carbonyls, J. Organomet. Chem., 220, 295-300 (1981).

j. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 46, 329-342 (November/December 1995) Analysis of cosmetic ingredients by continuous-flow fast atom bombardment liquid chromatography-mass spectrornetry SEIICHI YOSHIDA, RYUJIRO NAMBA, TASUKU TAKAMATSU, and MASAHIRO MATSUOKA, Analytical Research Group, Safety & Analytical Research Center, Shiseido Research Center, 1050 Nippa-cho, Kohoku-ku, Yokohama, Japan 223 (S. Y., T.T., M.M. ), and Analytical Research Division, Pharmaceutical Research Laboratories, Shiseido Research Center, 2-12-1 Fukuura, Kanazawa-ku, Yokohama, Japan 236 (R.N.). Received September 27, 1994. Synopsis In order to study the applicability of continuous-flow fast atom bombardment mass spectrometry (CF-FAB MS) combined with reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) using a methanol- and-water mixture as a carrier for cosmetic analysis, 30 compounds frequently used in cosmetics were studied by CF-FAB MS to establish their detection limits. Instrumental optimization was carried out for post-column addition of a matrix solution to adjust the methanol concentration at the ion source. A methanol concentration of 30-50% was found to give the best result in terms of sensitivities and S/N ratio. The method was successfully applied to the quantitative analysis of pantothenylethylether in a hair lotion. INTRODUCTION The combination of chromatography and spectrometry has been a useful tool for analysis of cosmetics, which are complex materials containing many components. For this pur- pose, gas chromatography-MS has been widely used (1,2), but it is not readily appli- cable to nonvolatile compounds, which account for a fairly large proportion of cosmetic ingredients. Although HPLC has also been widely applied to cosmetic analysis, qual- itative information that can be obtained through this analysis is very limited, even when HPLC is used in combination with selective detectors. The HPLC-MS has not been much used, probably because of the absence of general conditions applicable to a wide variety of cosmetic ingredients, which range from non-polar to highly polar compounds. When cosmetic products are to be analyzed by HPLC, mixtures of methanol and water with different ratios are most frequently used in a reversed-phase mode. Therefore, in order to establish a generally applicable condition for HPLC-MS analysis of cosmetics, we utilized CF-FAB MS as an interface, which has been reported by Caprioli et al. (3). 329