PREPRINTS OF THE 1999 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC SEMINAR 123 Reference: 1. Syed, AN., Ethnic Hair Care: History, Trends and Formulations, Cosmetics & Toiletries, 108:99-107 (September 1993). 2. Kamath, 'irK., and Hornby, S., Mechanical and Fractographic behavior of Negroid hair, Journal of Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 35:2143 (1984). 3. Evans, TA., Ventura, TN., and Wayne, All., The Kinetic of hair reduction, Journal of Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 45:279-298 (1994). 4. Wickett, RR., Kinetic studies of hair reduction using a single fiber technique, Journal of Study of Cosmetic Chemists, 34:301-316 (1983). 5. Syed, AN., Kuhajda, A., Ayoub, H., Ahmad, K., and Frank, EM., African American hair: Its physical properties and differences relative to Caucasian hair, Cosmetics & Toiletries, 110:3948 (October 1995). 6. Syed, AN., Ayoub, H., Kuhajda, A., Recent advances in treating excessively curly hair, Cosmetics & roiletries, 113:47-56 (September 1998). 7. Valko, EI., Barnett, G., A study of the swelling of hair in mixed aqueous solvents, Journal of Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 3:108-117 (1952). 8. Ayoub, H., Determination of straightening ability of relaxers using Image Analysis System. Avlon Industries Inc., R&D Report No. 40, (June 1997).

124 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE OXIDATIVE HAIR DYES BASED ON POLYMERIC THICKENERS R. McMullen and Janusz Jachowicz, C. Jones •, C. J. Chang •, and D. Derore International Specialty Products, *Rohm and Haas Introduction A typical oxidative hair coloring kit usually contains several products such as a lotion containing dye precursors (colorant), a developer with hydrogen peroxide, a conditioner or shampoo for use immediately following the coloring procedure, and a multi-use conditioner for assuring proper maintenance of the dyed hair. More recently introduced products have incorporated polymeric thickeners, conditioning agents, photo-filters, antioxidants, and low molecular weight viscosity modifiers into the hair coloring system. Polymeric thickeners are often used to produce a non-dripping mixture of colorant and developer, which is applied to hair. In order to enhance the feel of dyed hair and/or to prevent hair surface damage during the dyeing procedure, conditioning agents are frequently included in the colorant. In addition to this, antioxidants and photo-filters are also found in colorants, in which function is to prevent hair photo-damage and retard color fading. Furthermore, low molecular weight viscosity modifiers can be used to adjust the theological properties of the system in order to facilitate mixing of a colorant and a developer. Traditionally, special surfactant systems in combination with solvents, such as isopropanol and propylene glycol, were employed to produce a thickening effect on mixing of the colorant and developer. However, more novel formulations, based on polymeric thickeners, produce an increased viscosity due to a change in pH or as a result of hydrophobic interactions with surfactants. Products of this kind can be formulated by employing anionic polymers, such as Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer and Acrylates Copolymer, or by using nonionic polyurethanes, such as PEG-150/Stearyl/SMDI Copolymer and PEG- 150/Decyl/SMDI Copolymer. Additionally, mixtures of thickening polymers may be utilized to adjust the rheology (shear-thinning or Newtonian) of the final hair coloring system. Conditioning effects can be obtained using polymers, such as Polyquatemium 28, while photo-protection can be observed using Dimethylpabamidopropyl Lauridimonium Tosylate (DLT). This paper will discuss the use of polymeric thickeners in combination with conditioning and hair protection agents in several types of oxidative haircoloring products including lotions, gels, and creams. We will report formulation performance by spectroscopic color analysis, flourescence measurements, mechanical combing analysis, and rheological (viscosity) evaluations. Materials & Methods The polymeric thickeners, Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates/Methacrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, and PEG-150/Stearyl/SMDI Copolymer (Rohm & Haas) were used in the developer formulations. Dimethylpabamidopropyl Lauridimonium Tosylate (ISP) was used as a photofilter. The hair dyes, listed in Table 3, were purchased from Jos. H. Lowenstein & Sons, Inc. The viscoelastic properties of the hair dye systems were characterized using a Brookfield DV-II viscometer and a Brookfield DV-II+ viscometer. For pH measurements, an ATI Orion PerpHect Meter Model 330 was used. Viscosity readings were obtained using spindles from the T and LV series, ensuring the correct % of scale with each spindle. The combing measurements of hair tresses, treated with a color system, were performed using a Dia-Stron Miniature Tensile Tester operated by MTTWlN software. In order to quantify the degree of color-fading, we used a HunterLab ColorQUEST Sphere Spectrocolorimeter manufactured by Hunter Associates Laboratory, Inc., Reston, VA, USA. The use of the spectrocolorimeter enabled us to obtain the tristimulus (L, a, b) values, which were utilized to calculate discoloration parameters as a result of photo-irradiation. These data will be provided in the paper presentation, but not in this extended abstract. Results & Discussion In the course of our investigations, we examined the polymeric thickeners in neat solutions and in dye systems. The dye systems consisted of a low viscosity developer and a colorant in the form of a cream, lotion, or gel. In this work, we report the use of both nonionic and anionic polymers, in the developers of the dye system, as shown in Table 1. We have also included the formulation of a hair dye colorant in Table 2, which is representative of the gels examined in the present study. As indicated in the table, C14-15 Pareth-10 and C12-15 Pareth-3 were used to adjust the gel consistency of the colorant. The viscoelastic profiles for various nonionic and anionic developers (e.g. Table 1), various colorants (e.g. Table 2), and a mixture of the two will be presented. These plots, in terms of viscosity vs. shear rate, demonstrate the low