PREPRINTS OF THE 1999 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC SEMINAR 129 REFERENCES: tHarris, DH, Katz, M. Internal data on file, Universal Biologics, San Rafael, CA 94903. 2Hamilton JB, Patterned loss of hah' in man: types and incidence. An•t NYAcas $ci (19•1) 53: 708-28. •Internal data on hah' loss estimates. American Hah' Loss Council, Chicago, IL, 1996. 4Barth JH, k4easurement of hair gro•M•. C'/ht Exp Dermatol(1986) 11: 127-38. SBarman Jk4, Pecotaro V, Astore l, •Vlethod, technique and computations in the stud). of the trophic state of human scalp harL .•lnv•t Dermatol (1964) 42:421-5 6Bouhanna P, The phototrichogrank a macrophotographic study of the scalp. Bioeng $kbt (1985) 3: 263. •Price VH, Androgenetic alopecia and hair growth promotion. State of the art: present and future. Clan Dermato! (1988) 6(4): 218-27. SDevillez RL, Jacobs d-P, Androgenetic alopecia in the female. Arch Dermato! (1994) 130: 303-7. 9Pl'ice VH, k4enefee E, Quantitative estimation of hah' growth. .•ln•,•t Derma•! (1990) 95: 683-7.

130 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE MAXIMIZING THE DEPOSITION OF NATURALLY DERIVED HAIRCOLOR VIA THE USAGE OF REACTIVE SILICONES Suelien Bennett, Catherine Sitbon Biosil Technologies Introduction: Haircolor, both pemmnent and se•m-penn,ment, Ires become a quickly grou4ng segment of the cosmetic and tofletry market. Althougl• the constuner likes the long lasting effect of pennanent color, the damage that it causes to hair is a n•jor dra•back. The sc•m-penn,ment colors ,am gentler, but the upkeep is more difficult. Several nanlrally derived pigments xvere treated with reactive silicone to fonn pol)anem. These polymers xvere incorporated into a conditioning base and used to treat hair tresses. Various .types of tresses were used- virg• blead•eck and gray. The deposition and staying poxver office colore was examincd on the tresses after repeated waslfings. It appears tim the silicone/pigment complex polymefizes with the keratin fibrils in the hair in a way fl•at results in remarkable deposition and strength of color. The color remains on the hair after repeated xvaslfings, and even more interestingly, has the ability to cover gray. Methods: Four natural dyes - indigo. n•lder, osage and cutch- were coinbreed into a flurry, wifl• a reactive silicone at a ratio of 1 part color, 1 pan silicone and 2 pans water. Tiffs slurry. was then incorporated into a conditioner base at 20% The conditioner/color product x•m tested at two different pHs -4.5 and 9.8. Sxx•tches (2.0 - 2.2g. 8 in, long) of virgin grey and brmm Ira' were x•mhed fluee thnes xrith Prell Oily to Nom• Original Sh,'unpoo - 2 gr. Sh,'unpoo for 2 minutes with rinsing in 25 ø C xvater. Sxvatches xxere then ready. for treatment For coloring treatmen[ 2 grams of product xxm used, left on the s•tch for 20 minutes, rinsed x•ith 25 ø C xmer and then washed x•ith 2 grmm Prell (follm•ing same procedm as above). Procedure for treaUnent is as follows: 1 swatd• as control mfl• no IreaUncnt Sx•atch given one Ireatment - one applim•on of conditioncr/color and one wash x•ith Prell Sv, atch treated 3 th•es - 3 conditionings, 3 xx:ashings Swatch treated 7 l•nes - 7 conditionings, 7 x•:aslfings Sxx•tch Irmted 7 thnes and then xxmhed an additional 21 thnes (mfl• no concurrent color Ireatn•mt) After Ireatmenlx msp(•on of color •as 111tqde 14sually and then chroimmeter lneasn•ments were laken. Conditioner Base Water 67.75% Mefl•ylpamben 0.15 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05 Dimethicone Copolyol 1.00 Rice Bm Oil 4.00 Cetyl Alcohol 3.00 Propylpmaben 0.10 PEG-100 Stearate 1.15 Glyce•l Stearate 2.50 Rmctive Silicone 5.00 Natural Color 5.00 Water 10.00 Imidazolidinyl Urea 0.30 The increase in deposition of the color can be noted bofl• vimall), and instrumentally as the number of Iream•ents tactmss. On the tresses which were treated 7 l•les and then •vashed an additional 21 times, file intensity of the color remains. The na!uml colors also give excellent grey coverage. One of the most important aspects of the study is the absence of damage to the hair. The presence of the reactive silicon• combined with the lmv pH system, restfits in a coloring trmtment that is cond/fioning to the ha/r. This positive aspect was Ironslated into good wet combability, minimal buildup or residual, h/gh