J. Cosrnet. Sci.J 56, 207-210 (May/June 2005) Abstracts International Journal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 27, No. 1, 2005* Eco-friendly methodologies for the synthesis of some (PTSA). The comparisons of yields and thennal profiles aromatic esters, well known cosmetic ingredients under either microwave or conventional heating were studied and reported. Villa c•, Baldassari s.•, Gambaro R 0 ., Mariani E.", Loupy A# 0 Dipartimento di Scienze Farmaceutiche dell'Universita, Viale Benedetto XV, 3 - 16132 Genova - Italy and Sensitive skin: mechanisms and diagnosis #Laboratoire des Reactions Selectives sur Supports - ICMMO - Universite Paris-Sud CNRS, UMR 8615, Primavera G, Berardesca E batiment 410-91405 Orsay Cedex -France Solid-liquid solvent free phase transfer catalysis (PTC) and acidic catalysis in dry media were applied, with noticeable improvement and simplification over classical procedures in a Green Chemistry context, to the synthesis of some aromatic esters useful as cosmetic ingredients: 3- methyl butyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 4- methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 4- ( dimethylamino )benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, well known UVB sunscreen filters 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, UV asbsorber and cutaneous antilipoperoxidant propyl 4-hydroxybenzoate and butyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (parabens), antimicrobial agents. The reaction were performed under microwave activation and conventional heating. The best results for the synthesis of cinnamic, salicylic and 4-(dimethylamino)benzoic esters were achieved by in situ preformed carboxylates alkylation with alkyl bromides using PTC. The 4-hydroxybenzoates were obtained in good yields by classical esterification of the acid with alcohols using a simple heterogeneous mixture of reagents with catalytic amounts of p-toluenesulfonic acid San Gallicano Dermatological Institute, Rome, Italy Sensitive skin is a condition of subjective cutaneous hyperreactivity to environmental factors. Subjects experiencing this condition report exaggerated reactions when their skin is in contact with cosmetics, soaps and sunscreens, and they often report worsening after exposure to dry and cold climate. Though no sign of irritation is commonly detected, itching, burning, stinging and a tight sensation are constantly present. Generally substances that are not commonly considered irritants are involved in this abnormal response. They include many ingredients of cosmetics such as: dimethyl sulfoxide, benzoyl peroxide preparations, salicylic acid, propylene glycol, amyldimethylaminobenzoic acid and 2-ethoxyethyl methoxycinnamate. Sensitive skin and subjective irritation are widespread but still far from being completely defined and understood. The aim of this paper is to summarize the relevant literature in order to elucidate the underlying mechanisms of sensitive skin and the best testing methodologies for investigation of sensitive skin. * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 207

208 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Ultraviolet Radiation and Skin Aging: Roles of Reactive Oxygen Species, Inflammation and Protease Activation, and Strategies for Prevention of Inflammation-induced Matrix Degradation -A Review Sreelcumar Pillai PhD, Christian Oresajo PhD and James Hayward PhD. Engelhard Corportion, Long Island, New York Inflammation and the resulting accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) play an important role in the intrinsic and photoaging of human skin in vivo. Environmental insults such as UV rays from sun, cigarette smoke exposure and pollutants, and the natural process of aging contribute to the generation of free radicals and ROS that stimulate the inflammatory process in the skin. UV irradiation initiates and activates a complex cascade of biochemical reactions in human skin. In the short term, UV causes depletion of cellular antioxidants and antioxidant enzymes (SOD, catalase), initiates DNA damage leading to the formation of thymidine dimmers, activates the neuroendocrine system leading to immunosuppression and release of neuroendocrine mediators, and causes increased synthesis and release of pro-inflammatory mediators from a variety of skin cells. The pro-inflammatory mediators increase the permeability of capillaries leading to infiltration and activation of neutrophils and other phagocytic cells into the skin. The net result of all these effects is inflammation and free radical generation (both reactive oxygen and nitrogen species). Furthermore, elastsases and other proteases ( cathepsin G) released from neutrophils cause further inflammation, and activation of matrix metalloproteases. The inflammation further activates the transcription of various matrix degrading metalloproteases, leading to abnormal matrix degradation and accumulation of nonfunctional matrix components. In addition, the inflammation and ROS cause oxidative damage to cellular proteins, lipids and carbohydrates, which accumulates in the demtal and epidermal compartments, contributing to the etiology of photoaging. Strategies to prevent photodamage caused by this cascade of reactions initiated by UV include: prevention of UV penetration into skin by physical and chemical sunscreens, prevention/reduction of inflammation using anti-inflammatory compounds (e.g.: cyclooxygenase inhibitors, inhibitors of cytokine generation) scavenging and quenching of ROS by antioxidants inhibition of neutrophil elastase activity to prevent ECM damage and activation of MMPs, and inhibition of MMP expression (e.g.: by retinoids) and activity (e.g., by natural and synthetic inhibitors). Vol. 27, No. 2, 2005* 'Guapo' (Myrosma cannifolia) starch: a natural product with potential use in cosmetic formulations Rincon, AM. 1 , Perez de R, M.N.2 Reyes, A1, Romero, A 2 Orfila, L.3 Padill� F.C.1 0 1 Unidad de Analisis de Alimentos. 2 Catedra Tecnologia Cosmetica. 3 Unidad de Cultivo Celular-Toxicologia. Facultad de Farmacia. Universidad Central de Venezuela. Apdo. Postal 40109, Caracas, 1040-A VENEZUELA Phone: (58)212 605.2729 Fax: (58) 212 605.2707 e-mail, carrillf@camelot.rectucv.ve Presented at the XV Congreso Latinoamericano e Iberico de Quimicos Cosmeticos in Buenos Aires, Argentina. September 200 1 The objective of the present work was to evaluate the possible use of Myrosma cannifolia starch L.F. Maranthaceae ("Guapo"), as a raw material in heterogeneous systems or powdered cosmetic and pharmaceutical products formulation. The starch chemical and physical characteristics, physico-chemical properties, and rheological behaviour, previously studied, were considered. Flowing characteristics, particle size distribution, water absorption capacity at 25°C (ambient temperature), and toxicity were assessed. Results showed that Myrosma starch complies with the USP and British pharmacopoeia, and presented a normal particle distribution. More than 25% of the granules had a diameter greater than 23.8lµm and the average size of particles was greater than 16.92µm. When compared to talc, "guapo" starch presented higher values for water absorption capacity and flowing characteristics. Starch showed negative local toxicity, and low acute toxicity in vitro on two human dermis cell types. The amylographic study and the difractograms suggest the possible use of this starch in heterogeneous systems. A facial transparent powder was formulated and some of its properties were determined by sensorial analysis. It was concluded that the M. cannifolia starch presents certain characteristics useful in the formulation of new powdered products.