ABSTRACTS 209 The characterization of the semi-solid W/O/W emulsions tyrosinase. Based on the secondary properties of this with low concentrations of the primary polymeric molecule, such as its anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing emulsifier effects, we postulated that octadecenedioic acid interacted D. Vasiljevic, G. Vuleta, M. Primorac Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, Faculty of Pharmacy, Bel gr ade University, Vojvode Stepe 450, 11221 Bel gr ade-Kumodraz, Serbia and Montene gr o Semi-solid multiple W/O/W emulsions with low concentrations (0.8, 1.6, and 2.4 % w/w) of lipophilic polymeric primary emulsifier PEG -30 dipolyhydroxystearate have been formulated. Both emulsions, primary and multiple, were prepared with high content of inner phase (11=12=0.8). All the formulations differ only in the lipophilic emulsifier concentration. Evaluating several parameters such as macroscopic and microscopic aspect, droplet size, accelerated stability under centrifugation and flow and oscillatory rheological behavior, assessed the multiple systems. It is possible to formulate the semisolid W/O/W multiple emulsions with low concentrations of PEG -30 dipolyhydroxystearate as the primary emulsifer. It appeared that the highest long- term stable multiple emulsion with the lowest droplet size, the highest apparent viscosity and highest elastic characteristic, was the sample with the highest concentration (2.4 % w/w) of the primary emulsifier. A new mechanism of action for skin whitening agents: binding to the peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor Johann W. Wiechers1, Anthony V. Rawlings2, Christine Garcia3, Christophe Chesne3, Patrick Balaguer4, Jean Claude Nicolas4, Sebastien Corre5, and Marie-Dominique Galibert 5 1 Uniqema Skin R&D, Gouda, The Netherlands, 2 AVR Consulting Ltd, 26 Shavington Way, Northwich, Cheshire, UK 3 Proclaim, Pare d'affaires de la Breteche, Batiment BI, 35760 Saint Gregoire, France 4 INSERM U540, Endocrinologie Moleculaire et Cellulaire des Cancers, Montpellier, France 5 Lab. Genetique et Developpement, CNRS UMR.6061, Faculte de Medecine, Universite Rennes, 1,2 av Leon Bernard, 35043 Rennes cedex, France. Presented at the 23rd IFSCC Congress, Orlando, USA, 2004. with the peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PP AR) as this nuclear receptor also mediates these effects. Using reporter gene technology, we were indeed able to demonstrate binding of octadecenedioic acid to all three PPAR subtypes, in particular PPARy with an EC50-value of approx. 1 x 10 -6 M. Binding to PPARy of octadecenedioic acid or pioglitazone, a known pharmaceutical PPARy agonist, led to reduced melanogenesis. Subsequently also tyrosinase mRNA (as measured by real-time PCR) and tyrosinase levels (as measured by Western blot) were reduced, suggesting the existence of a complete novel mechanism of skin whitening agents: binding to PPARy results in reduced tyrosinase mRNA expression which in tum results in less tyrosinase being formed. This in tum leads to reduced melanogenesis both in vitro and in vivo. Because octadecenedioic acid binds not only to PP ARy but also to PP ARa and PP ARc5, other efficacies mediated via these receptors may also be expected. Isolation of a bacterial enzyme releasing axillary malodor and its use as a screening target for novel deodorant formulations Andreas Natsch Ph.D., Hans Gfeller, Peter Gygax, Ph.D., and Joachim Schmid Ph.D. Givaudan Schweiz AG, Ueberlandstrasse 138, CH-8600 Duebendorf, Switzerland Axillary odor is known since 50 years to be formed upon the action of Corynebacteria on odorless axilla secretions, but the nature of the bacterial enzymes involved in this process remained a mystery. We identified the known axilla odor determinant 3-methyl-2-hexenoic acid in hydrolyzed axilla secretions along with a new, chemically related compound, 3-hydroxy-3-methyl-hexanoic acid. The natural, odorless precursors of both these acids were purified from non-hydrolyzed fresh axilla secretions. The malodorous acids were shown to be covalently linked to a glutamine residue in fresh axilla secretions. Corynebacteria, but not Staphylococci, isolated from the axilla were found to release the acids from these precursors in vitro. A Zn2+ - dependent aminoacylase mediating this cleavage was then purified from Corynebacterium striatum Ax20 and the corresponding gene agaA was cloned and heterologously Octadecenedioic acid is known as a skin whitening agent expressed in E. coli. Based on these biochemical findings, but its activity is not mediated via a direct inhibition of novel approaches in research on axilla malodor control are

210 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE presented: (a) With a new test method using the isolated Corynebacteria and their enzymatic activity, the direct malodor-controlling activity of existing cosmetic ingredients was evaluated. (b) The structure of the natural malodor precursor was modified by replacing the malodor acid with fragrance molecules. These new fragrance precursors were shown to be cleaved by the same aminoacylase. Development of hydrogel patch for controlled release of alpha-hydroxy acid contained in tamarind fruit pulp extract Jarupa Viyoch'\ Thanakom Sudedmarka, Wipawadee Srema\ Wipawan Suwongkrua• •Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Naresuan University, Phitsanulok, 65000 Thailand bCosmetic and Natural Product Research Center, Health Sciences Research Institute, Naresuan University, 0.04% w/w (CuC0_5Go.M),chitosan: tapioca starch 4.5: 0.5 with glutaraldehyde 0.04% w/w (C4.5T0_5G0.04) or 0.05% w/w (C4.5To.5Go.o 5),and chitosan : rice starch 4.5 : 0.5 with glutaraldehyde 0.04% w/w (C4.5R.,uG0.04) and chitosan : rice starch 4.0 : 1.0 with glutaraldehyde 0.03% w/w (C4.0R1.0G0.03) provided the flexible and elastic patches with good bio-adhesive property. The tensile strength values ranged from 5 to15 N mm·2 and the elasticity ranged from 30-60%. The addition of the extract in these formulations significantly increased the tensile strength values of the obtained patches. The patch of C4_oR1.oGo.oo formulation containing the extract showed relatively highest porosity, corresponding to its highest amount (12.02±0.33 mg) and rate (0.452±0.012 mg mm· 2 min- 112 ) of tartaric acid released The amounts of tartaric acid released from the developed hydrogel patches were proportional to a square root of time (Higuchi's model), particularly the release from C4.oR1.oGo.oo (R.2, 0.9978±0.0020) and C4.5Ro.5Go.04 (R.2, 0.9961±0.0024) patches. Phitsanulok, 65000 Thailand Comparative study of the physiological properties of collagen, gelatin and collagen hydrolysate as cosmetic The aim of this study was to develop hydrogel patch using materials crosslinked chitosan-starch as polymeric matrix for controlling the release of the natural alpha-hydroxy acid G. Li, S. Fukanaga, K. Takenouchi and F. Nakamura contained in the extract of tamarind's fruit pulp. The chitosan (MW 100,000) was blended with com, tapioca or Hokkaido University, Sapporo, Japan rice starch in various ratios and then crosslinked with glutaraldehyde. The physical characteristics, mechanical resistance, bio-adhesion property and surface morphology of the prepared hydrogel patches with and without the extract were investigated. The release patterns of the hydrogel patches containing the extract were investigated by measuring the amount of tartaric acid, a major AHA present in the tamarind's fruit pulp extract, accumulated in the receptor medium of the vertical diffusion cell at various time intervals over a period of 6 hours. The results indicated that the formulations of chitosan : com starch 4.5 : 0.5 with glutaraldehyde 0.02% w/w (C4_5Co,5Go.02 ) or The cell biological properties of collagen, gelatin and collagen hydrolysate (15 000 Da) were studied using murine keratinocytes. Keratinocyte culture experiments demonstrated that only collagen had significant effects on cell attachment and proliferation, but the results of cells cultured on gelatin and collagen hydrolysate showed the rates of adhesion and proliferation were similar to those of cells cultured on plastic as a control. It is concluded that collagen has better physiological effects that those of gelatin and colagen hydrolystae as skin-care cosmetic materials.