330 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE measurement. Although cuticle reinforcement may not affect the tensile strength of the fiber, it can reinforce the cuticula, which in turn can affect fiber surface properties as well as the tactile and optical properties of the hair assembly. CONCLUSIONS Ion spectra and images clearly identified CETAB within the hair-fiber cross section and on the hair-fiber surface. The penetration of CETAB ranges in depth from 10 µm to penetration of the entire hair-fiber cross section. This is clearly demonstrated by map ping both positive (C 3 H 8 N + at 58 m/z and C 19 H 42 N+ at 284 m/z) as well as negative (9Br-) ions. The higher-molecular-weight compounds are more difficult to ionize. Therefore, one has to look for their low-molecular-weight fragments, which in the case of PQ-10 may not be suitable for mapping because these fragments are not unique to PQ-10-treated hair, since they are also found in untreated hair. The fact that CE TAB is able to penetrate into the hair fiber while PQ-10 is not, manifests itself in improved fatigue resistance of CETAB-treated hair. The greatly extended fatigue life of CETAB-treated hair versus PQ-10-treated hair is, without doubt, due to the ability of the low-molecular-weight CETAB to penetrate into the hair fiber, while PQ-10 is restricted to deposition on the hair surface. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This study was carried out in context with our research project "Characterization and Quantification of Hair Damage" and is supported by our sponsors in the international hair-care industry. We thank our sponsors for their support. The authors also thank Sidney Hornby for the fatigue measurements. REFERENCES (1) S. B. Ruetsch, Y. K. Karnath, and H.-D. Weigmann, The role of cationic conditioning compounds in reinforcement of the cuticula, J. Cosmet. Sci., 54, 63-83 (2003). (2) J. A. Faucher and E. D. Goddard,]. Colloid Interface Sci., 55, 313 (1976). (3) C. D. Chow, Interaction between polyethylenimine and human hair, Textile Res. ]., 41, 593-603 (197 2). (4) J. Woodard, Aziridine chemistry-Applications for Cosmetics, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 23, 593-603 (1972). (5) S. B. Ruetsch, Y. K. Karnath, A. S. Rele, and R. Mohile, Secondary ion mass spectrophotometric investigation of penetration of coconut and mineral oils into human hair,]. Cosmet. Sci., 52, 169-184 (2001).
J. CoS1net. Sci., 56, 331-332 (September/October 2005) Abstracts Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan Vol. 39, No. 2, 2005* Research on Constitutions and Physiology of Skin Consequently, it is considered to be appropriate to classify Development of Traditional Chinese Medicine for Skin skin type on the basis of TCM. Tokiya Yokoi, Yasukazu Nakayama Product Development Center, Shiseido Co., Ltd. Effect of Added Fragrances on the Foaming Properties of Shiseido China Research Center Co., Ltd. Aqueous Surfactant Solutions The Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) is considered Noriko Kanei, Tomoyoshi Harigai, Hironobu Kunieda medical treatment for constitutions (Shou). In women, who are healthy volunteers living in Tokyo, we investigated the relationship among the 4 types of skin condition and 6 types of constitution, which are based on the general idea of TCM. As a result, it is clear that skin types are composed Fragrance Laboratory, Soda Aromatic Co., Ltd., Graduate School of Environment and Information Sciences, Yokohama National University of several constitutions. The constituent proportions of Foaming properties are important characteristics of damp heat constitution and yin deficient constitution are high in the case of active skin (this type of skin tends to turn red and is easily partially inflamed) . The constituent proportions of qi - blood deficient constitution and yang deficient constitution are high in the case of inactive skin (this type of skin tends to be pale) . The proportion of phlegm dampness constitution is high in the case of damp skin (this type of skin looks greasy and tends to break out in acne) . The constituent proportions of qi - blood deficient constitution and yin deficient constitution are high in the case of dry skin (this type of skin looks dry and rough) . In other words, it is suggested that the features of the 4 types of skin are signified as the sum total of local symptoms composed of the constitutions. Furthermore, we trialed the external prescriptions of TCM, which changed the features of the 4 types of skin. It is proved that each of the external prescriptions of TCM can change the skin features according to the effective result of all of types of skin. surfactant solutions used for personal washing products, hair styling foam, shaving foam, etc. Fragrances are often used in these cosmetic products, but they also influence the foaming properties of aqueous surfactant solutions. In this study, we investigated the effects of added fragrances (d - limonene (LN) , a - hexyl cinnamic aldehyde (HCA) , /3 - ionone (IN) , benzyl acetate (BA) , linalool (LL) , geraniol ( GL) , eugenol (EL) , and cis - 3 - hexenol (HL) ) on the initial foam heights and foam stability of sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) aqueous solutions. GL and EL increase the initial foam heights of O. lwt % and 0.3wt% SDS aqueous solutions. Dynamic surface tension measurement shows that these fragrances quickly lower the surface tension of SDS solutions. Hence, GL and EL increase the initial foam heights due to the fast adsorption at the air/ water interface. Further, GL and EL also increase the foam stability of SDS solutions and act as foam boosters. For the application to shampoo, the addition * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 331
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