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J. Cosmet. Sci., 64, 45–58 (January/February 2013) 45 A new strategy to modulate alopecia using a combination of two specifi c and unique ingredients ESTELLE LOING, ROGER LACHANCE, VIRGINIE OLLIER, and MICHEL HOCQUAUX, R&D Department, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, place de la cité-Tour de la cité 2600, boulevard Laurier, #900 Québec (QC) G1V 4W2, Canada (E.L., R.L.) and R&D Department, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, 18 avenue de l’Europe, 31520 Ramonville Saint Agne, France (V.O., M.H.). Accepted for publication June 6, 2012. Synopsis Male pattern hair loss is a major cosmetic concern affecting both genders with a preference for men. Major causes of hair loss in genetically predisposed individuals include hormonal dysfunction, loss of extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins in the follicular bed, and localized microinfl ammation. Few options are yet available to correct the problem. For this purpose, a cosmetic active ingredient was developed by combining a Trifolium pratense fl ower extract and a biomimetic peptide and tested clinically for the prevention of hair loss. Thirty volunteers with recessing hair were recruited for this randomized, placebo-controlled study. Clinical effi cacy, following daily topical application of the mixture to the scalp, was checked using TrichoScan™ for the mea- surement of human hair. Within 4 months of application, anagen hair increased at an average by +13%, telogen hair density decreased by −29%, and the anagen/telogen (A/T) ratio increased by +46% over baseline in the treated group. Results strongly differed from those of the placebo group (anagen, −2% telogen, +23% A/T ratio, −33%). Investigation of the potential mechanisms involved in the positive effects of the test product on hair growth pointed at inhibition of 5-α-reductase activity, reduction of infl ammatory reactions, and stimulation of ECM protein synthesis in the vicinity of the hair follicle. INTRODUCTION The presence of hair is a characteristic of mammals. Other species may have some kind of fi lamentous outgrowth but that certainly do not qualify as hair. Hair is a unique fi lamen- tous structure that extends from the dermis to the outside of the body, normally covering some areas entirely, such as the scalp, while sparing other zones, such as the palms and the soles. Human hair naturally comes in a variety of shapes, sizes, lengths, and colors, depending mainly on the specifi c genetic makeup of each individual. In mammals in general, hair serves diverse functions, such as providing protection, thermal regulation, camoufl age, warning and mating signals, and a sense of touch (1). But for humans, it is Address all correspondence to E. Loing at estelle.loing@lucasmeyercosmetics.com
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