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J. Cosmet. Sci., 64, 371–380 (September/October 2013) 371 Sensory characterization of virgin olive oil–based cosmetic creams MARIA EMMA PARENTE, ADRIANA GÁMBARO, LUCIA BOINBASER, and ANTONELLA ROASCIO, Cátedra de Química Cosmética and Sección Evaluación Sensorial, Universidad de la República, 11800, Montevideo, Uruguay. Accepted for publication July 11, 2013 Synopsis The infl uence of olive oil concentration and sensory profi le on the odor of virgin olive oil-based cosmetic creams was studied. Four olive oils were selected on the basis of different intensities of positive and defective odor attributes: two extra virgin olive oils, one virgin olive oil, and one ordinary virgin olive oil. Thirty cos- metic creams were prepared, by both cold and hot processing methods, using each of the above oils at con- centrations of 3%, 5%, and 10%, in addition to mineral oil controls. A trained sensory panel evaluated the fruitiness and defectiveness intensities in the odor of creams, using unstructured 10-cm scales ranging from “none at all” to “much.” The fruity and defective attributes perceived in the odor of creams were signifi cantly infl uenced by the sensory profi le of the starting olive oil, oil concentration, and preparation method. Overall, these fi ndings suggest that virgin olive oils of only slightly fruity odor may be conveniently used for the preparation of cold-processed cosmetic creams, whereas ordinary virgin olive oils appear to be suitable for the preparation of cosmetic creams only by hot processing of the emulsion at a low oil concentration. INTRODUCTION Natural oils were used by ancient civilizations for cosmetic purposes, as well as to mask unpleasant body odors. Attributed to Galeno (~100–200 BC), the fi rst recorded cosmetic emulsion (Ceratum refrigerans, the ancestor of today’s cold cream), was made with olive and almond oils, beeswax, and rosewater (1). Lipids act as emollients (fr. Lmolle: soft, smooth). Having the capacity of replacing natural skin lipids, emollients contribute to the retention of water at the stratum corneum and assist in the cellular renewal process, providing a soft, elastic, lubricated condition associ- ated with skin well-being. The activity of emollients has been ascribed to their ability to remain on the skin surface over prolonged time periods (2–5). Naturally occurring substances, including natural feedstock and secondary products de- rived from the processing of foodstuffs, are highly valued in the cosmetic industry on Address all correspondence to María Emma Parente at mepr@adinet.com.uy.