AROMA PROFILES AND PREFERENCES OF JASMINUM SAMBAC L. FLOWERS 487 J. sambac was especially isolated by the olive oil system. It was found in high quantities in Samples F and C. Linalool, benzyl acetate, and α-farnesene were found to be the main aroma compounds in each jasmine extract. Linalool was observed in highest quantity in the absolute de pomades (Sample C) from spermaceti wax and olive oil system, followed by the sunfl ower and rice bran oil bases, respectively, similar to benzyl acetate that was found in high quantity in the jasmine extract obtained from the olive oil system (Samples F and C). Although all the absolute de pomades contained β-ocimene, methyl salicylate was found in high quantity (9.46%) in the extrait of the olive oil system (Sample F). However, this ester was undetectable in the absolute de pomades. Similarly, the highest amount of indole was found in Sample F (2.47%), in addition to β-phenyl ethyl acetate and ethyl salicylate. Furthermore, the presence of E-α-bisabolene, naphthalene, α-muurolene, and galoxolide in the extrait of base containing rice bran oil (Sample D) was also noted. However, methyl anthranilate was found only in Samples G and F. Ger- macrene D, δ-cadinene, and α-farnesene were present in all of the absolute de pomades. Surprisingly, the extrait from sunfl ower oil system (Sample E) did not contain germacrene D and δ-cadinene. Furthermore, Z-3-hexenyl benzoate was found in every sample, par- ticularly in the concrete (Sample H), and was not detected in Sample B. The presence of γ-cadiene and its isomer, α-cadiene, in Sample F may be explained by the suitability of olive oil for the isolation of these compounds. Furthermore, olive oil was found to isolate more ethyl oleate, particularly in the extrait (Sample F). In addition, β-caryophyllene was found only in Sample F. However, benzyl salicylate and methyl stearate could be isolated by the maceration of jasmine. Several essential fatty acids were found in the absolute de pomades and extraits, such as palmitic acid, palmitinic acid, and linoleic acid. Phytoster- ols, namely β-sitosterol and stigmasterol, were found in high amount in Samples C and B, respectively. However, spongesterol was detected only in Sample B. The presence of free fatty acids, fatty acid esters, and phytosterols in jasmine aroma extracts was found to be contributed by the jasmine fl ower wax, which is in agreement with the previous study on J. grandiforum (15). In particular, palmitic acid was found to be in highest quantity in both the cultivars. Volatile nitrogen compounds, including indole, nitriles, anthranilate, and imide, may be derived from the bioconversion of amino acids containing nitrogen, such as phenylalanine during the picking process of jasmine fl ower (16). Benzyl acetate and Z-3-hexenyl benzoate, which produce the characteristic jasmine odor, were also detected as the main volatile constituents in jasmine cultivated in Thailand. The aroma profi les of jasmine (J. sambac) grown in different geographical conditions were further compared, as shown in Table III. When compared with the Philippines, Indone- sian, and Chinese jasmine, Thai jasmine was poor in indole (16,17). In particular, indole Table I Appearance and Yield of Jasmine Aroma Extractions Appearance Weight (g) Yield (%) Rice bran oil Clear brownish red liquid with jasmine and slightly rice bran odors 2.3637 0.20 Sunfl ower oil Clear orange liquid with jasmine odor 1.2389 0.10 Olive oil Clear yellow liquid with jasmine odor 1.9371 0.16 Solvent extraction Yellowish green wax with strong dry jasmine odor 2.6530 0.22

Table II Volatile Constituents (%) of Jasmine Aroma Extracts Compound RT Sample A B C D E F G H β-Aminocrotonitrile 5.52 0.52 – – – – – – – β-Ocimene 6.31 0.63 0.87 1.03 – – 0.46 – – Dihydromyrcenol 7.24 – – – – – – – – Linalool 7.33 3.25 5.34 6.55 2.35 2.05 3.81 0.39 0.72 α-Terpinolene 7.80 – – – – – – 0.39 – Phenyl ethyl alcohol 8.19 – – – – – – 0.16 – Benzyl acetate 8.44 0.46 0.78 1.11 0.46 0.35 1.85 0.65 – Methyl salicylate 9.00 – – – 0.14 – 9.46 – – Phenylacetonitrile 9.86 – – 0.59 – – – – – Phenyl methyl ester 9.96 – – – – – – – 0.75 Linalyl acetate 10.72 – – – – – – – – Furyl pentyl ketone 10.79 – – – – – – 0.13 – β-Phenyl ethyl acetate 10.80 – – – – – 0.20 – – Ethyl salicylate 11.13 – – – – – 0.16 – – Indole 11.75 0.67 – – – – 2.47 – – E--Bisabolene 11.95 – – – 0.07 – – – – Naphthalene 12.13 – – – 0.16 – – – – Methyl anthranilate 12.58 – – – – – 0.33 1.38 – α-Muurolene 12.90 – – – 0.18 – – – – Germacrene D 13.02 0.46 0.81 0.81 0.31 – 1.32 – – δ-Cadinene 13.91 2.08 1.54 1.04 1.81 – 0.89 0.51 – α-Farnesene 14.02 9.27 9.72 9.42 8.13 1.48 20.21 6.68 13.05 β-Caryophyllene 14.89 – – – – – 0.17 – – Z-3-Hexenyl benzoate 15.28 1.63 – 1.86 1.49 0.70 3.76 7.39 15.11 1-Hydroxy-1,7-dimethyl-4-isopropyl-2,7- cyclodecadiene 15.71 – 1.34 2.23 – – 2.63 – – γ 15.93 – – – – – 0.56 – – Isopropyl myristate 15.98 0.62 – – – – – – – JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 488