JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 120 antiaging, and (d) for improved skin condition (e.g., radiant complexion, luminous, and supple). Among the 35 products that did not list hormones on their labels were fi ve products whose labels indicated the presence of plant compounds (e.g., phytoestrogens) extracted from wild yams (e.g., Dioscorea villosa). These products also indicated use for menopause and for antiaging and antiwrinkle. For the remaining 30 products that did not list hor- mones on their labels, indicated uses included antiaging, antiwrinkle, line repair, and improved skin condition (e.g., skin brightness and elasticity, youth activating, moistur- izing, lubrication, hydration). Among all 70 products, 43 products included product use warnings or instructions on the label. Most, though not all, included general recommendations such as “for external use only,” “avoid contact with the eyes,” and “discontinue use if you experience irritation or discomfort.” Many also included specifi c recommendations not to use during preg- nancy or lactation or to keep out of reach of children. Three noted the presence of a chemical known by the State of California to cause cancer (i.e., progesterone). One recom- mended consultation with a health care professional before use and another stated that it was “for licensed physicians only.” As shown in Table III, estrogens and/or progesterone were found in 34 out of 35 products (whose labels indicated the presence of a specifi c hormone) at concentrations ranging from 86 to 26,800 μg/g. Six products labeled as containing estriol were found to contain estradiol. Progesterone was not found in one product labeled as containing this hormone. The 35 products that did not list hormones on their labels were found not to contain es- trogen or progesterone. CONCLUSION An analytical method for the determination of estriol, estradiol, estrone, and progester- one in cosmetic products has been developed, validated, and used to conduct a limited survey of products marketed as cosmetics for estrogens and progesterone. In this survey, no products were found to contain hormones that were not listed on the product label. Table I Mass Recovery of Estriol, Estradiol, Estrone, and Progesterone from Two Lotionsa Percent recovery for each hormone analyte Product Spike (μg/g) Estriol (%) Estradiol (%) Estrone (%) Progesterone (%) Lotion A 100 97.2 101 97.4 92.5 1000 92.3 94.5 92.4 104 10000 96.2 95.7 101 97.2 Lotion B 100 90.0 101 98.6 94.0 1000 87.8 81.8 86.9 87.4 10000 97.7 94.8 101 96.7 a Lotions A and B are different products. Values for lotion A are averages of two separate extractions with dupli- cate injections of each extract. Values for lotion B are averages for duplicate injections of a single extraction.

Table II Sample Descriptions Product ID Product type Label information on hormones Use Use direction Product use warning 1 Transdermal cream Estriol Estradiol Estrone Progesterone Control of menopausal symptoms Yes Yes 2 Face and body cream Progesterone PMS and menopause skin care Yes Yes 3 Natural progesterone cream Progesterone Menopause/perimenopause support Yes Yes 4 Progesterone cream Progesterone Menopause/perimenopause support Yes Yes 5 Nature estriol cream Natural estriol Control of menapausal symptoms Yes Yes 6 Estrogen body cream Natural estriol Control of menapausal symptoms Yes Yes 7 Natural progesterone body cream Natural progesterone from soy, wild yam root extract) For premenapause/menopause/post menopause women Yes Yes 8 Natural progesterone body cream Natural progesterone (derived from Mexican wild yam root) For menstruating women Yea Yes 9 Estrogen body cream Natural estriol Control of menopausal symptoms Yes Yes 10 Natural progesterone body cream Natural progesterone For premenopause/menopause/post menopause women Yes Yes 11 Rejuvenate antiaging estriol face cream Estriol (natural estrogens) Antiaging cream may reduce wrinkle depth and pore size Yes Yes 12 Skin care cream Estriol Advanced contouring peptides and cellular rejuvenators for luminous and supple skin Yes Yes 13 Progesterone enhanced skin therapy cream Progesterone Skin therapy 14 Estro pro cream Estriol Estradiol Estrone Progesterone Yes 15 Age intervention face cream Estriol Progesterone Age intervention face cream Yes 16 Skin enhancing beauty cream Estriol Progesterone Skin enhancing beauty cream to tone skin and stimulate the skin with a minimal effect on hormone balance Yes Yes ESTRIOL, ESTRADIOL, ESTRONE, AND PROGESTERONE IN COSMETIC PRODUCTS 121