252 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS matching batch mixtures, identification of unknown or competitor formula_ dons, and direct quantitative analysis. The fundamental infrared characteristics of rapid results (15 minutes), small sampling (100-1000 micrograms), and ability to recover a sample intact have strong appeal where costly materials are involved. Most of the work so far undertaken has dealt with the liquid or solid phases. A further great possibility, the quantitative study of samples in the vapor phase with long path cell, has not yet been started. It is the purpose of this paper to show the nature of infrared spectra and illustrate typical examples. There is appended a bibliography covering other studies of interest to the field. PART I--CosMETICS Unfortunately, very little has been published which directly concerns the cosmetic field, although a great number of applications have also been found for infrared analysis in this field. There are probably two main reasons for this silence: 1. Results of this work are usually kept as secret as possible in each laboratory using this new method of investigation. 2. The sampling techniques may be somewhat more dit•cult than in most fields of organic chemistry because of the presence of water in some of the materials being used in the cosmetic field. The presence of water is not k •po 3000 2o,oo k•o `390 9o o9o 990 89o 7• 700 • b..,I-4, ' ' • ' ' 1'11111111111111111444 L• • • • • • • ,•,•, I H •ITIH IIIIIIIIIII III •1• •4• H I • I I fil kllllllllll _ ill I I I • •lllllllll•J •/ II i • i i I IIIIIIIIIIII • III IIIIIIIIllilllllllq ] • I I I i IIIlillll•l III •] •.• I I I I ß • • iii i i III Iiill, llllllq I • 1 IIIIIl1•11111111 ill N I III •1 F IIIIIIII!111illll I I I I I I I I IIIII I I III II I• I I I I I I I [Ill • IIIIIIIIIllllll• II I I II III IIIIII 11111 II IIJ ' I •klllll ffl•4 ertl •ll I I I I I I I I I I III I Iq • l I I II • I •11111111111111• I I II1• • I IIIIIIIlllllllq l II IIII1•11il I I IIIIIIIIllllllllllJ I! I II •/ IIIlllllllllilllJ• I I• • III IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII1• IIt111111111•11 • I 111111111ilIIItlIIIH uIII IIIII • l•l I•J L IIIIIIIIIIIII III II I[[111111111111H II I II IIII III i •L ._• -- - I 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 II 12 B g 50,00 3000 2000 1500 30Q__ ItO0 tO,00 900 8QO 7v50 700 ._. •'_ ' i ...,L..P'i--i--FT• -1 ]- l .... II ' I I I I I I'11 I I I I'11 I I I I I I I I I I I I t-l-l"l--•! I /-I 11 A \ • • IIIII j•q I I Ij• III I I I I}{11 liq[I I •[ •J ,/I Iil I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I"d'.J•! I I I I 1/I I I I I .L•. IIIIIIII J i ]1 I /I • i i i i i i I i i i i I I i• I i [',[i i iIi I I LUJ,-I I I I I I I I I I Idl III ¾11 I I I I I I I 11 III I I%1 IIIII l/q I I I I I I I I I I I'•11 III I I I I I [1 III I I I I II I I IIIII II I I I I I I II I I I III II11111 I I I I I I I II I L/I I I I I I I I I I I I I [I !11111LL! IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIII IIIII I IIIIIII IIII 1/111 I I I III III I I1•111111• I I • . / I I I I I I I I t I I I 1'4 I I I I I ! . .L•l. IllIll I I I | I'1 I1 Yilllllllllllllllllllll• I I I I I I I I I I I IIIII I I I I [I I I I II11'11 III •U I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I/I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I IMI I 111J--[44 I! I I I I I I I I I Illll I I I I I I I I I IIII I I III III I 1111 I III 1.1.11 I/I I I I I I I I I I I I III I I III II L• III1111111111111111 II[I 1 It{ I I I I I I I I/I I"l I-'I ! I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I l I . .14J, J,J•l I I I I I I I I I I I 111111 I I I I I I I I IIII I I Ill I I I'1•,11 I I I I-I-,i'l I [.•11 I i i i i i i i i i i i iiiii i i i i i i i i i iiii i i ifil IIIil l'l i ' II !!..LH I I I I I I I I I I I IIIII I I I I I I I I I IIII I I III I111 I\11 I Ifil I I I I I I I I I I I I I I l I I I I I I I I I I I I I .LL•--•. i i i i i i i i i i i iiiii i i i i i i i ii iii i i l! IJ 1.4xl i[i i i i i1 it i I i i i i I I I I I I III II 1111 I..• IIiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii/ •1111 'tll iiiIiiIil11111111111111•J_1_1,44 ii i i i ii Ii i i iiiii i i i i i i i I ! I'q / 11111111111111111111111111.144.44 I I i i i i i i i i i iiiii ii i i i I i i i i•1 i i i ii/ iii I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I ILI•14-1 l II IIII III1JIIIII IIIII Iq IIIII III IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII I I IJ•l,.•J ! 2 ,3 4 ,5 6 7 8 9 I0 II I?_. 1'3 14 If:) Figure 1.--Infrared spectra of lanolin and Isolan.

INFRARED APPLICATIONS OF COSMETICS AND OILS 253 'so much a cell problem. Although most common infrared transmitting '•'cell windows are water soluble, such as NaCI, KBr, CsBr, these can be re- ::'(:::placed with water insoluble materials such as LiF, CaF2, BaF2, AgC1 and :•-KRS-5. Rather, the main difficulty resulting from the presence of water ] :'is the fact that water absorbs so strongly in the infrared that the most •..] i. useful regions for sample analysis are obscured. Furthermore, the high :!'• polarity of water also broadens and confuses the samples' absorption bands 'i:i so considerably that only poor qualitative results can be expected in most !.'' cases. However, it is generally possible to eliminate water by drying the i•]!':sample by moderate heating or using drying agents so that the organic ]!'i:, fractions can be analyzed more effectively. i:::: ' The first few figures (Figs. 1-6) illustrate typical recordings that can be )]obtained in 10-15 min. for some ingredients such as lanolin, Isolan, ?:.:Tweens, Span 40, Carbowax, G-1790, spermaced, beeswax, cholesterol i.? and chlorophylIs that are frequently used in the cosmetic field. ! i:!: :: Although lanolin and Isolan (Fig. 1) have quite similar spectra, they :i]Can be distinguished by small differences in the 9-11/• region and by the :!.:: intensity of a band at 5.96u assigned to internal double bonds. i:i::::. Tween 40 (Fig. 2, light curve) and Tween 80 (Fig. 2, heavy curve) 'exhibit only small intensity differences, but are quite different from Span 40 (Fig. 2). 5000 3000 '111111f/ ' IllitllLIIIlli,,i • _LLI I/t'lX•lTI I I I 1 LLIJrl I I I[I I11 •11 LLJ511111II I Ill LI kl•l I I I I I III I I•1111 I till I I I I I II 11111 [ Llll II I II [ I IllIll II LLI I I I I I i ! I11 I111 i I l_l_Lt • • • I I LI I I I I III litllllll I I • I I I I I I'd I I111 I I •J_l I I I I I | I [ i ill I I 111111111 IllIt III ir I 2090 •590, •390 , •lO0 Io00, 900 80o 75o 7oo ]L12-1--1--[1111lllllllllllllllllll[1111111'111l'llll'lllll'11 •llllll•llLL.Illlllllllllllllllllll.1111111111111111111 IIIIIIlll•11•111111111111111111111kll III /111 1111111llll/1111111111tlllllllllll•11 • I IIIIIIIIl1111111111111111111111111111'111J.-I/111•l • II IIIIIIIIIlllllilllllllllllllllllll klZ'11/1111111111\11111 11111111111111111111111111111111111111Wllllllllllll•111 IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII III/I IIIIItlllllllllllltll IIIIIIIllOlllllg^lklllllltlllll R IIIIIIII IIIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIlll/l•_!1111•1111 • IIII !111•1111 IIII11t1111111111•1[•11111111111/111 II11111111111111t IIIIIIIIIIIIIlllllll•hllllillll•111111111111111111111111 IIIIIll1111111111111r!llil•111illlll tB^• tg IIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIlllll•11111111 • " IIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIilIIIIIIIIIIIIIII'lilIM, M•11111111111111111111111111 IIIIII IIIIIIII1• II II IIIII IIIIIIIlllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllli IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII11111111 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 I0 II 12 15 14 •5000 •" I I J l I I II I I I'1 I I I I , 3000 2000 1500 1300 I100 I( -hl'l I I I'1 I I I_.LI I II I•,,•1 II II I'1 I'll I'll I'1 I I1'1 II ]•IVlll I I I I I/ffl 13--r-•z I 'I, I • I,•-q I III I II II Ill I II I I Ill 1/111 III I I • I I I I I Ilill I I III I I I I I I I I I I I I III IJIII III I I I I I I I I II ! 1./11 Ill I I I I I I I I I I I I I I II II1 IIIII I/I I I I I I I II III FI I III I I II I!1 I I II II I II II 1/111 II I I I I II I I IIII I IIII LII II I1! II I III I III IIIII I I I I I I I I I III I I I III1•11 I I I I I I I I I I I II Ill IIII I I I I I I t II III I II IIII II I I I I I I II I I I I I I lU IIII ILi I I I I I I ill I! I•11iltlllllliL i J I I illl i i• J I i [ I i [ I I I iil I I I T I Jl ITIAI I I • I i I I I I IIII Illll I I I I I I II / IIill Ill I I I I I I I I I I IVl III 11 I I I I I I I I I III I I I II!1 I I11 I• •111 I•1 I I I I 1 II I II IIII 111 I III I I IIII I II I}111 I IM. •111 I\1 II II I1 III II IIII I I I I I I I I I I'11 III IIllI I¾11•11 III I1 IIIIIIIIIIIII II II I I I It/'l I11111111111 II II IIIIIIIIIII I Jl 1 IFI41 II I I I I I I I I I I I I II I I I• I I I I I I f'l I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I 11 I I I I 1•-,4-4/I I 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 )90, 900 , IIIIIIIIIIilll IIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIII1• IIIIIIIIIIII1• IIIIIIIIIII1•1 •1111111111•11 IIIIIIIIIII/111 IIIII •illlllll l•111•l:'-l•4._l/1111 Yll I •11 II II III /llll•111 II I I I\•l I I 'T•./•M I I I I1 I I I ' "• I IIIIIit1111 IIII1111111111 IIIIIIIIIIII1 IIIIIIIIIIIIII IO II Figure 2.--Infrared spectra of Tween and Span 40. II1_1 IIII IIII IIII IIII IIII I I II IIII IIII IIII IIII IIII I'111 ,1111 IIIII II111 15 )750 790 [I I'111 III I I II 'l"1 IIIIIIIIIil1111 T I I"NIxJ Y1,4-1'-I I ! I I I I I I INF'/rll I I I I I I 111111111111111 111111[11[lllll IIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIil11111111 IIII!t111[ll IIIZ IIIIIIIIIIIlill IIIIIIIIIllll IIIII11i1111111 IIII I I I I IIIIIII11111111 13 •1 1.5