138 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS to page proof is an editorial board consisting of H. D. Goulden, E.G. Klarmann, D. H. Powers and E. Sagatin, the last named as executive editor. A reviewer looks at a book for thoroughness of coverage, correct- ness of statements made, arrange- ment of material, omissions, errors and good "book manufacturing." In his observations the reviewer must be as neutral as possible. He must determine if the object or pur- pose of the book has been fulfilled. The chapter authors are all well qualified but being thus gifted does not mean that they can give away "secrets." Even so, one gets the feeling that at least some of the for- mulas were never made. In general the chapters give an excellent set of references digesting the known literature. Where called for, there are usually an adequate number of formulas, though certain chapters seem a bit overloaded with them. A valuable addition to the book is an index to the trade names used in the text along with the source of supply. The industry owes a debt of grat- itude to the editors, author and publisher for this mammoth under- taking. It will rank as the "bible" of the cosmetic science. There is n• comparable cosmetic book in existence. Each chapter gives a historical sketch of the products being dis- cussed after which it delves into the science behind the product ending up with formulations, manufactur- ing process and labeling suggestions. The chapter arrangement is well planned, following a logical sequence. The style is amazingly uniform, a tribute to the editors. A rather careful check of most of the pages failed to disclose any proofreader's errors. However, one questions the correctness of use of unqualified terms, such as beeswax (white or yellow?), alcohol (which S.D. for- mula ?), glyceryl monostearate (pure or S.E.?), sorbitol (syrup or pure?), Santolite (which type?), lanolin (hydrous or not ?), petrolatum (melt- ing point or type?) and stearic acid (melting point or type?). Trade usage implies anhydrous lanolin (though in the U.S. P., "lanolin" means the hydrous form) when lano- lin is mentioned, and white beeswax is usually meant when the term bees- wax is used. However, in a book on "science and technology" terms should be specific. This was one point on which there was no uni- formity between chapters. Fortunately, there are a few omissions, thus enabling authors to add new material in future revisions. Goldzieher discusses various cos- metic uses of hormones, but the chapter on hormone creams suggests only estrogens. Silk powder in make-up, solvent type wa.terpro.of mascara, and antlcorroslves 1FI electric proshaves are not men- tioned, to name a few deficiencies. There is a bit of doubling up in Chapter 6 and the preservative chapter. The other point on which uni- formity seemed lacking was patent coverage which varied considerably between authors, but is best in Chapters 15, 18, 20, 24, 25 and 32. Chapter 17 appears to have the wid- est use of trade names because it is practically impossible to discuss shampoo ingredients otherwise. Chapter 23 has a few inaccuracies in formulations involving castor oil and deodorized kerosene. Chapter 43 fails to mention inactivation of pre- servatives by nonionics though the problem has been known at least since 1950. In this.chapter, the introduction to Table 3 refers to phenol coefficients which are not
BOOK REVIEWS 139 given. Chapter 31 seems unneces- sarily involved in polymer theory but is otherwise well done. One questions the propriety of the implications of Chapter 38. At least three of the materials listed in Table 2 have never been criti- cized by the American Medical As- sociation Committee on Cosmetics, namely, boric acid, tragacanth and lanolin. If they were common al- lergens, the "Committee" would have disapproved their use. The author implies that certain materials are free from allergenicity when she knows there is no such substance. The term hypo-allergenic can be used by a host of well-known brands on the U.S. market not now using it. Some of us remember when the hypo-allergenic cosmetics called themselves by the disparaging mis- nomer, "nonallergic." One questions the choice and amount of preservative often sug- gested in the various formulations. The book is an excellent value though some may balk at the $25 price. It is well printed, bound and indexed. Let not the few omissions and minor defects mentioned here be construed as lack of authority and usefulness. Quite the contrary. These comments are for the benefit of the authors to make future edi- tions still more perfect. It takes but a few lines to report the deficien- cies, but it would take pages to re- cite the many praises this work de- serves. Because of the magnitude of the book, it has been impossible to re- mew each author's contribution. The reviewer has had to take asylum in general observations. "Cosmetics: Science and Tech- nology" had as an objective to sup- ply a collective work by specialists in the many diversified fields relat- ing to cosmetic science or technique. This objective has been admirably realized in almost fifteen hundred pages of useful text.--M. G. DE- NAVARRE. ANTISEPTICS, DISINFECTANTS, FUN- GICIDES AND CHEMICAL AND PHYSI- CAL STERILIZATION, George F. Red- dish, Editor. Lea and Febiger, Philadelphia 6, Pa. 1957. 975 pages, 58/4 X 91/4 inches, illustrated and indexed. Price $15. Twenty-eight contributors, auth- orities in their respective fields, pre- sent pertinent data and information concerning antimicrobic agents and sterilization. This second edition contains three new chapters dealing with sterility evaluation, the testing of sanitizers and bacteriostatic agents and the use of ultraviolet radiation to destroy micro6rgan- isms. The test methods for assuring sterility are essentially those out- lined in the United States Pharma- capoeia, lSth edition. The cos- metic chemist will find the chapter on "Testing Sanitizers and Bacterio- static Substances" most helpful since many of these procedures are used to evaluate preservatives in both cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. The discussion by Husa on Anti- septic Ointments is most informa- tive for the formulation of scalp and skin preparations exhibiting bac- teriostatic or fungistatic properties. The discussions dealing with the esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid esters are disappointing to this re- viewer. First, information con- cerning these compounds is partly given in three chapters and is quite repetitious. Two references are in- dexed as "esters of para-hydroxy- benzoic acid" while the third is in- dexed as "hydroxy-carboxylic acids and esters." Second, no mention
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