308 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS of actual use--thus Bergamot oil, for example, is adversely affected by most grades of soap particularly as regards its top note character. Great progress has been made on the chemical side by concentrating on a few newly identi- fied constituents of important essential oils, and synthesizing these and their close chemical analogues. With these chemical materiMs it is frequently possible to reproduce natural effects, and then to go beyond nature by using large amounts of chemical bodies which are present only in traces in natural oils. A list of such items must necessarily be incomplete, and some materials may be not so much new as newly available at realistic cost. The following have proved of interest: Leaf alcohol and related hexenols and hexenals. Isomers of octenol. Isomers of nonenol. cisJasmone and related jasmones. Geranyl tiglate and other esters of tiglic acid. Nerolidol and its derivatives. Ethyl linalol and its derivatives. laevoCitronellol. Proprietary materials related to Ambergris. Publication of details of other important materials is awaited. It must be recognized that a manufacturer faces a dilemma concerning the publica- tion of the results of his own research. Research expenses are high and may be expected to rise still higher in the future, as techniques become more refined. The market for new chemicals is narrow and, even if really satis- factory patent protection is obtained, the loading of cost to cover research expenses renders the chemicals difficult to sell in any quantity. If publi- cation is postponed, bases may be prepared which by virtue of their specific character may receive rapid acceptance. On the other hand, if a manufacturer relies on the secrecy of the formula of a base rather than on patent protection for an individual chemical, he runs the risk that the latest analytical techniques may be used to break down his product. Chemistry is now so far advanced that the characteri- sation of a single chemical body, once it has been isolated, may be rapidly achieved and a convenient synthesis is likely to be worked out without much difficulty. It could well occur, therefore, that another organization would market the special chemical material quite soon after the appearance of the special base. There are two points which appear to fayour the publication of details of new chemicals at an early stage assuming patent protection to be feasible. One is, that this will tend to discourage, to some extent, the application of

SOME ECONOMIC ASPECTS OF PERFUMERY 309 analytical techniques to finished bases and perfumes, and the second, that it will enable progress in perfumery to be discussed in an open and free atmosphere. It is our united aim that the public should receive the best possible finished product. In so far as we achieve this the market for perfumery products will become larger, to the advantage of all. (Received: 27th September 1962) Introduction by the lecturer The formulae were put into the paper to illustrate that in certain classes of product you have a very high-cost element in a very small number of constituents. One has constantly to look for ways of avoiding steadily increasing costs, but when you look to other natural sources for raw material you get a situation where the diminished cost of the natural product from the low cost area is offset by the diminished value that one finds in practice. It turns out that the costs of the oils offered on the open market often approximate closely to the values which may be set upon them in actual use. So one looks further to see if one cannot find a means of employing bases, either completely natural, or chemical, or combinations thereof, and there again one finds the results to some extent disappointing up to now, although theoretically they could be very good. As far as I am aware, up to now no one has succeeded in producing really satisfactory substitutes for these particular expensive naturals, and indeed for any of the naturals which I personally use--so long as they are being used in their proper manner. I am thinking of the use of Bergamot in soap, which is probably an improper way of using Bergamot anyway, because it is not fully stable. I dealt rather sketchily with some materials which seem to me to help in avoiding the use of such large quantities of very expensive materials, and I rather deliberately left out two or three such materials because they are treated in rather a confidential way. DISCUSSION DR. G. B. PICKERING: At the Tropical Products Institute we have a section which deals with essential oils and spices, and one of its functions is to help overseas producers who are interested in these materials. In view of the lecturer's remarks, it might be constructive to outliae some of the difficulties which overseas growers encounter when trying to produce perfumery materials. Firs fly, the production of expensive oils and floral extracts requires considerable skill, so that until recently it would be the European farmer in the tropics and not the local inhabitants who would have to undertake work of this kind. Such farmers, with great areas of land to manage, and